Stain Removal Procedure for Stone Surfaces

Stain Removal Procedure for Stone Surfaces

By Frederick M. Hueston , www.stoneforensics.com

If you find that there are some stains on your stone flooring the following stain removal information should help you remove them. A video on this procedure can also be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh0_tUphEco

Poulticing Materials:

I have found that most stains can be classified into one of the following categories:

Oil-Based Stains: Grease, tar, cooking oil and food stains.
Organic Stains: Coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, cosmetics, etc.
Metal Stains: Iron (rust), copper, bronze, etc.
Biological Stains: Algae, mildew, lichens, etc.
Ink Stains: Magic marker, pen, ink, etc.

There are, of course, other materials that will cause staining. These five categories are the most common.

Applying the Poultice

Once the stain is identified, the following steps can be followed:

1. Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water isolating the stain and accelerating the removal by the chemical.

2. Prepare the poultice. If a powder is to be used, pre mix the powder and the chemical of choice into a thick paste, the consistency of peanut butter. In other words, wet it enough so that it does not run. If a paper poultice is to be used, soak the paper in the chemical. Lift the paper out of the chemical until it stops dripping.

3, Apply the poultice to the stain being careful not to spill any on the non stained areas. Apply approximately 1/4-inch thick over-lapping the stain area by about one inch.

4. Cover the poultice with plastic (food wrap works great). Tape the plastic down to seal the edges. It also helps to poke several small holes in the plastic so that the powder will dry out. Failure to do this may result in the poultice staying wet.

5. Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed. Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.

6. Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain is not removed, apply the poultice again. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.

Some chemicals may etch marble and limestone surfaces. If this occurs, then apply polishing powder and buff with a piece of burlap to restore the shine.

Poulticing Powders:

Clays (Attapulgite, Kaolin, Fullers earth)  DO NOT USE OF RUST STAINS
Talc
Chalk (whiting)
Sepiolite (hydrous magnesium silicate)
Diatomaceous Earth
Methyl Cellulose
Clays and diatomaceous earth are usually the best. Do not use whiting or iron-type clays, such as Fullers Earth, with acidic chemicals. They will react with the material, canceling the effect of the poultice.

Many stains are so deeply imbedded that the poultice alone will not be completely effective. Some type of chemical solution will need to be added to the poultice. When the poultice and chemical are applied, the chemical is absorbed into the stone. The chemical reacts with the stain and is re-absorbed into the powder/material.

Stain Removing Chemicals

How do you choose the proper chemical for a given stain?

First, you need to identify the stain. This is the most important step in stain removal. If you know what caused the stain, you can easily look at a stain removal chart for the proper chemical to apply. If the stain is unknown, then you need to play detective. Try what caused the stain. If the stain is near a plant container, it might be that the plant was over watered and the soil has leached iron onto the stone. The color of the stain may help to identify the cause. Brownish color stains may be iron (rust) stains. The shape or the pattern of the stain may be helpful. Small droplet size spots leading from the coffeepot to someone's desk are a sure giveaway. Do some investigating and use your powers of observation. This will almost always lead to the identification of the cause of the stain.

If, after thorough investigation, you still have no idea what the stain is, then you will need to perform a patch test. A patch test simply means applying several chemical poultices to determine which will remove the stain.

There are also pre-prepared poultice mixes that have the chemicals already added. All you have to do is add water.

One way to reduce the amount of staining on any stone surface is to make sure it is sealed with a good penetrating sealer or impregnator.

Stain Removal Guide

Iron (rust) - Poultice with Iron Out + Powder + Water.  (Iron Out is available at hardware stores). Both mixtures may etch polished marble, so re polishing will be necessary.
Ink - Poultice with Mineral Spirits or Methylene Chloride +Powder.
Oil - Poultice with Ammonia+ Powder Methylene Chloride can also be used on tough oil stains.
Coffee, Tea & Food - Poultice with 20 percent Hydrogen Peroxide + Powder.
Copper - Poultice with Ammonium Chloride + Powder
Paint (water-based) - poultice with a commercial paint remover + Powder
Paint (oil) Poultice with Mineral Spirits + Powder. Deep stains may require Methylene Chloride.

Please use extra caution when handling all chemicals listed above. Thoroughly read Material Safety Data Sheets for each chemical before use.

Removing Urine Stains and Odors from Stone Surfaces

Removing Urine Stains and Odors from Stone Surfaces

Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

Your new puppy made a mess on your new marble floor. The granite floor in front of the urinals in the men’s room is stained and smells of urine. These are just a few of the issues with odors emitting from your stone surfaces.  Weather it’s your puppy or your husbands poor aim the following should remove the stain and the odor.

The Chemistry of Urine

Urine is unique in that it is a substance that comes our of the body as an acid and when it starts to dry becomes an alkaline crystal. For you amateur chemist it starts at a pH of 5-6 and converts to a pH of 10-12. These alkaline crystals are hydrophilic which simply means they absorb moisture. As these crystals absorb surrounding moisture the stain can grow in size. If the stone is a polished marble or limestone it can become dull due to the initial acid reaction but can also dull from the strong alkali. If this is the case the stone may need to be repolished.

Removing the Stain

Removing urine stains can be tricky and timing is everything. The quicker you can get to the stain the easier it will be to remove.

As soon as you can blot the urine up with some dry paper towels. Do Not wipe since this will only spread the stain.  Clean the stain with some dish soap and water. Mix about one teaspoon of dish soap in a gallon of water. Apply this solution on the wet area and allow it to sit for a minute or two. Blot the solution up and rinse with clean water. If there is still a stain, then you will need to apply a poultice.

 

The following is a basic procedure for stain removal More detailed stain removal instructions can be found here. http://stoneforensics.blogspot.com/ or www.SurPHaces.com

 

What you’ll need:

1.     Flour(use only white flour)

2.     Hydrogen Peroxide 20 Volume(You can purchase 20 volume peroxide at most beauty supply stores)

3.     Plastic wrap (saran wrap or equivalent)

4.     Plastic putty knife

5.     Low contact painters’ tape

6.     Mixing bowl or cup

7.     Plastic or wooden spoon

 

 

1. Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water isolating the stain and accelerating the removal by the chemical.

2. Prepare the poultice.  Take a small amount of flour and pour the peroxide into the flour and stir until you reach a creamy consistency.

3, Apply the poultice to the stain being careful not to spill any on the non stained areas. Apply approximately 1/4-inch thick over-lapping the stain area by about one inch.

4. Cover the poultice with plastic (food wrap works great). Tape the plastic down to seal the edges. It also helps to poke several small holes in the plastic so that the powder will dry out. Failure to do this may result in the poultice staying wet.

5. Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed. Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.

6. Remove the poultice with a plastic putty knife. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain is not removed, apply the poultice again. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.

Step 2 Odor removal

 

Once the stain is removed the urine smell may still be present. The following is how to neutralize the odor:

The nasty smell you experience is the result of bacteria using the urine as a food source. So, in order to eliminate the odor we need to kill the bacteria. There are numerous products out there that are designed for eliminating the odor in carpets. These same chemicals can be used for stone.  If you use these products make sure they are enzymatic. Many products are only mask the odor, you want to eliminate it, so an enzymatic product is necessary.

 

Instructions for applying an enzymatic cleaner

 

• Spray the affected surface liberally with the cleaner using a pump sprayer or spray bottle.
• Cover with plastic  for 1 to 2 hours to slow the evaporation rate and allow time for the first application to soak deeply into the stone.
• Note that as the first application of cleaner goes to work, the urine odor may intensify at first. This is typical with old or heavy urine deposits and indicates that the urine being loosened and is rising to the surface.
• Remove the plastic and blot the floor dry with paper towels or cloths. Expect the blotting towels or cloths to be colored yellow and smell heavily of urine. Dispose of the soiled towels or cloths.
• Reapply the cleaner. Allow to dry 1 to 2 hours. (In humid climates lacking AC, drying may take longer.)
• Reapply as needed, with 1 to 2 hours drying time between applications, until odor is removed.

 

The above processes are time consuming but will be well worth the effort if done properly.

 

 

 

 

How to Stain Your Concrete Floor

 

How to Stain Your Concrete Floor

By Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

 

Acid staining can make a common concrete floor into look like expensive natural stone flooring. Not only is it a fraction of the price, but for people allergic to carpeting materials its a godsend. Another great application is in houses with radiant floor heating. Radiant heating is at its most efficient when insulating floor coverings like tile or carpet are minimized.

The process of staining a concrete floor, while not overly complex, can be tough to get the results you want from. Most folks are probably better off hiring a professional contractor. Its a risky project for the do-it-yourselfer.

If youre not familiar with it, concrete stain isnt a paint or finish coat. It involves a chemical reaction on cement materials. Typically a water-based solution of hydrochloric acid and inorganic salts, the stain reacts with minerals and lime in the concrete aggregate, and the result of the reaction is coloring. It works on new or old concrete, and is fairly durable if you maintain it with sealer or wax, since it wont stain or chip. It can also be applied to both interiors and exterior floors. Walkways, bathrooms, entrances, driveways, living rooms and patios are all fair game.

When its finished, stained concrete looks a little like marble, but more dappled and less uniform. The concrete will mostly be earthy brown tones, with hints of red and green. Its possible to make your own tint stain by mixing colors, or applying at dissimilar rates. When you stain a concrete floor, though, dont expect the stain to be uniform or have an even tone. Plan your room decor and color scheme accordingly, because you’ll get dissimilar reactions from different areas of the concrete, and even a seasoned pro will be hard pressed to predict what the final result will be.

Surface prep for acid staining concrete depends on what condition your slab is in. Newly poured concrete only needs is be allowed time for curing- three weeks after pouring- then some rinsing and scrubbing. Older concrete is a different story. Thorough cleaning is required because any dirt, grease, paint, sealer or even curing agent will keep the stain from penetrating and reacting as it should. Do a little test area to make sure its ready.

Newer poured concrete will require less stain than older floors, but in general, a gallon of water added to one gallon of stain will cover around 400 square feet. Apply the stain with a non-metallic brush or broom, working in the cooler morning or evening hours, rather than in the heat of the day. Be careful to protect yourself from spillage, drips and fumes from the acid stain, and follow the manufacturers precautions.

After application, you need to cleanup by sweeping away any leftover stain and residue with a broom. When the floor is thoroughly dry, it is a good idea to apply a sealer agent and then wax it.

If you are in the market for natural stone flooring, a new look for your basement or patio, or just looking for new remodeling ideas, stained concrete is something you should look into.

 

Why You Should Consider Staining Your Concrete Floor

 

Why You Should Consider Staining Your Concrete Floor

Frederick M Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

Acid staining can make a common concrete floor into look like expensive natural stone flooring. Not only is it a fraction of the price, but for people allergic to carpeting materials its a godsend. Another great application is in houses with radiant floor heating. Radiant heating is at its most efficient when insulating floor coverings like tile or carpet are minimized.

The process of staining a concrete floor, while not overly complex, can be tough to get the results you want from. Most folks are probably better off hiring a professional contractor. Its a risky project for the do-it-yourselfer.

If youre not familiar with it, concrete stain isnt a paint or finish coat. It involves a chemical reaction on cement materials. Typically a water-based solution of hydrochloric acid and inorganic salts, the stain reacts with minerals and lime in the concrete aggregate, and the result of the reaction is coloring. It works on new or old concrete, and is fairly durable if you maintain it with sealer or wax, since it wont stain or chip. It can also be applied to both interiors and exterior floors. Walkways, bathrooms, entrances, driveways, living rooms and patios are all fair game.

When its finished, stained concrete looks a little like marble, but more dappled and less uniform. The concrete will mostly be earthy brown tones, with hints of red and green. Its possible to make your own tint stain by mixing colors, or applying at dissimilar rates. When you stain a concrete floor, though, don’t expect the stain to be uniform or have an even tone. Plan your room decor and color scheme accordingly, because you’ll get dissimilar reactions from different areas of the concrete, and even a seasoned pro will be hard pressed to predict what the final result will be.

Surface prep for acid staining concrete depends on what condition your slab is in. Newly poured concrete only needs is be allowed time for curing- three weeks after pouring- then some rinsing and scrubbing. Older concrete is a different story. Thorough cleaning is required because any dirt, grease, paint, sealer or even curing agent will keep the stain from penetrating and reacting as it should. Do a little test area to make sure its ready.

Newer poured concrete will require less stain than older floors, but in general, a gallon of water added to one gallon of stain will cover around 400 square feet. Apply the stain with a non-metallic brush or broom, working in the cooler morning or evening hours, rather than in the heat of the day. Be careful to protect yourself from spillage, drips and fumes from the acid stain, and follow the manufacturers precautions.

After application, you need to cleanup by sweeping away any leftover stain and residue with a broom. When the floor is thoroughly dry, it is a good idea to apply a sealer agent and then wax it.

If you are in the market for natural stone flooring, a new look for your basement or patio, or just looking for new remodeling ideas, stained concrete is something you should look into.

 

Graffiti Removal

Graffiti Removal Procedure for Stone, Masonry, and Tile Surfaces

By Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

 

If your beautiful building, wall, or other surface has just become the unintended canvas for graffiti, your first reaction might be to call your maintenance staff to pressure wash the spray paint away. Unfortunately, pressure washing can leave stains behind or shadowing caused by the high-pressured water. If you are dealing with paint, markers, or other water-soluble types of graffiti, as well as post-cleanup stains or shadowing on stone, tile, brick, or masonry, this article offers some guidance on what to do next. 

Graffiti Types

 

There are many kinds of paints, markers, or other mediums that are used for graffiti. The most common types are aerosol paints and felt tip markers because they are easy to acquire and relatively inexpensive. Other graffiti mediums include chalk, charcoal, foods such as ketchup and mustard, red clay, and more. Any graffiti created with water-soluble material will be easy to remove with a mild washing.

Scribing is a type of graffiti that often causes permanent damage since a knife, screwdriver, rock, or other sharp object is used to scrape away the surface.

 

Graffiti Removal Rules

 

When it comes to graffiti removal, here are some very important considerations.

Time
The longer graffiti remains on a surface, the more likely it is to soak into the surface. The deeper it penetrates into the surface, the more difficult it will be to remove. For this reason, you will want to attempt removal as soon as possible.

Temperature
During summer months and in areas with warm climates, graffiti will dry faster and will have a tendency to penetrate deeper than in colder climates.

Abrasives
High pressure washing, and abrasive brushes should be avoided, especially on soft stone, brick, and masonry surfaces. These methods may remove the graffiti but could leave a deep mark or what is called shadowing which is nearly impossible to correct.

Cleaners
Be careful choosing the proper cleaners or stain removers. Certain chemicals will emulsify the paint and drive it deeper into the surface making removal even more difficult.

Removing Graffiti

 

Step 1 
Attempt to identify the graffiti type. Identification is key, since it will help you chose the proper chemical. Paint or marker are water-based or solvent-based mediums. Water-based paints can generally be removed with mild detergents, whereas solvent-based paints will require mineral spirits, paint stripper, or other solvent-based cleaning agents.  The best way to find out what type of medium you are dealing with is to test a small area as follows. Once you know the medium, proceed to Step 2.

CAUTION: Make sure to do the water-based test first, since water-based paints can give false-positive test results with the solvent-based test.

Water-Based Test
Mix some mild detergent, such as a pH-neutral cleaner or dish soap and water in a spray bottle. Saturate a small area and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Wipe it off with a soft, white cloth. You may also agitate the area with a soft nylon bristle brush. If the graffiti comes off easily, then you are dealing with a water-based paint.

Solvent-Based Test
Moisten a clean, white rag with a small amount of mineral spirits. Gently blot the graffiti. If the graffiti is easily removed, then you are dealing with a solvent-based paint. 

Step 2

1. Prepare a solution, per the manufacturer's dilution instructions, of a pH-neutral cleaner or dish soap and water in a bucket or sprayer.
2. Rinse the surface with plain, clean water. This step is important, because it removes any potentially abrasive material such as dust, dirt, or grit from the surface.
3. Apply the cleaning solution with a soft nylon scrub brush. Work from the bottom of the wall to the top. Do not let the solution dry. If necessary, work in small sections. Lightly scrub the surface with the nylon brush and rinse with clean water.
4. If the above technique does not remove the graffiti, proceed to Step 3.

Step 3

1. Make sure the surface is dry before proceeding further.
2. Put some paint stripper, such as mineral spirits, in a chemical-resistant spray bottle.
3. Apply a mist to the graffiti and scrub with a dry nylon brush. 
4. Rinse the area with paint stripper.
5. Repeat this process, working in small areas at a time, from the bottom of the wall up. Be sure to rinse any streaks as you work.
6. If the graffiti is not totally removed, this means it is a stain. To remove a stain, proceed to Step 4.

Step 4
To remove a stain, apply a poultice, that is, a paste made of an absorbent powder mixed with a chemical. As the poultice dries, it wicks or lifts the stain out of the pores in the surface. First, select the appropriate ingredients.

Poultice Ingredients
Following are some types of poultice powders to mix with your cleaning agent:

• Clays (Attapulgite, Kaolin, Fullers earth) WARNING: DO NOT USE ON RUST STAINS
•  Talc
•  Chalk (whiting) 
•  Sepiolite (hydrous magnesium silicate) 
•  Diatomaceous Earth
•  Methyl Cellulose

Clays and diatomaceous earth are usually the best. Do not use whiting or iron-type clays, such as Fullers Earth, with acidic chemicals. They will react with the material, canceling the effect of the poultice.

Many stains are so deeply imbedded that the poultice alone will not be completely effective. Some type of chemical solution will need to be added to the poultice. When the poultice and chemical are applied, the chemical is absorbed into the stone or masonry. The chemical reacts with the stain and is re-absorbed into the powder/material. 

Following are suggested poultice ingredients. Please use extra caution when handling the chemicals listed below. Thoroughly read the Safety Data Sheets for each chemical before use.

• Iron (rust) - Poultice with Iron Out + powder + water. Iron Out is available at hardware stores. This may etch polished marble. If so, re-polishing will be necessary.
•  Ink - Poultice with mineral spirits or methylene chloride + powder.
•  Oil - Poultice with ammonia + powder. Methylene chloride can also be used on tough oil stains.
•  Coffee, Tea & Food - Poultice with 20 percent hydrogen peroxide + powder.
•  Copper - Poultice with ammonium chloride + powder.
•  Water-Based Paint - Poultice with a commercial paint remover + powder.
•  Oil-Based Paint - Poultice with mineral spirits + powder. Deep stains may require methylene chloride.

 

Applying the Poultice

1. Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water, which will help isolate the stain and accelerate the removal by the chemical.
2. Prepare the poultice. Mix the powder and the chemical of choice into a thick paste, about the consistency of peanut butter or thick enough that it will not run. 
3. Apply the poultice to the stain. Apply the paste approximately 1/4-inch thick, extending beyond the stained area by about one inch. Be careful not to spill any on the surrounding area.
4. Cover the poultice with plastic (food wrap works great). Tape the plastic down to seal the edges. It also helps to poke several small holes in the plastic, so that the powder will dry out. Failure to do this may result in the poultice staying wet. The idea is to allow the moisture to slowly evaporate from the poultice.
5. Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed. Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.
6. Use a flat, plastic scraper to carefully remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain is not removed, reapply the poultice. It may take up to five poultice applications to remove very difficult stains.
   
   

Some chemicals may leave etch damage on honed or polished marble and limestone surfaces. If etching occurs on a polished surface, apply polishing powder and buff with a piece of burlap to restore the shine. If etching occurs on a honed surface, do not use polishing powder, because this will leave a polished area that does not match with the surrounding finish. Contact a professional stone restoration contractor to remove the etch and restore your honed finish.

How to Clean and Maintain a Stone Pool Deck

 

How to Clean and Maintain a Stone Pool Deck

By Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

 

You just had a new stone deck installed and your wondering what do I do next. How do I maintain it? Do I need to seal it? How do I deal with stains? The following will give you the guidance you need to keep your stone pool deck looking new.

 

Basic Maintenance

 

To maintain a stone pool deck, you should regularly:

1.      Sweep or blow leaves and debris off the deck to prevent staining and discoloration.

2.      Clean the deck with a neutral cleaner and water to remove any dirt or algae that may have accumulated.

3.      Seal the deck every 1-2 years to protect the stone from water damage and staining.

4.      Check for and repair any cracks or chips in the stone to prevent further damage.

5.      Keep the pH levels of your pool water balanced to prevent damage to the deck.

6.      Keep the trees and plants around the pool trimmed to prevent leaves and branches from falling on the deck.

7.      Use mats or rugs to prevent any scratches or stains from pool chairs and other furniture.

8.      Consider using a professional cleaning service to maintain your stone pool deck for optimal results.

 

 

Other Issues that may arise

 

Sinking Pavers- If you notice your pavers becoming uneven or sinking, consider the location of the affected area. If it's around the pool shell, it may be due to a broken pipe or improper backfill compaction, which requires a professional repair. If the sinking is happening in other areas, it's likely due to poor sub-base compaction. To fix this, remove the pavers in the affected area and add more fill.

 

Weed Growth-Weeds grow by seedlings landing in joint spaces where sand has washed out between pavers, not from the bottom up. Properly installed pavers with good materials can help prevent weed growth, but weeds can still find ways to grow. Spot weed killer can effectively treat isolated weed issues, but avoid oil-based products as they can stain natural stone pavers.

 

Ants- Ants can create unsightly sand dunes on your patio and pose a stinging hazard. To get rid of them, you can use a mild insect repellent and spray it on any nests or areas with a lot of ants. As a longer-term solution, consider having an insect treatment sprayed around the area. Additionally, using a product like "sand lock" can prevent ants from accessing the sand between your pavers.

Other cautions for avoiding ants are as follows:

1.      Keep the area clean: Ants are attracted to food and sugary substances, so make sure to clean up any spills or crumbs on the pool deck.

2.      Use ant baits: Ant baits contain a slow-acting poison that the ants will take back to their colony, killing the queen and the rest of the colony.

3.      Use a natural repellent: Essential oils like peppermint, cinnamon, and citrus can help to repel ants. Mix a few drops of the oil with water and place in containers around the perimeter of the pool deck.

4.      Use a barrier: A barrier of diatomaceous earth or talcum powder can help to keep ants off the pool deck.

5.      Call a professional exterminator: If the ant problem persists, you may want to consider calling a professional exterminator to help control the infestation.

It's important to remember that preventing ants from entering your home is the best way to control them.

 

 

 

Sealing Your Stone Pool Deck

To seal your stone paver pool deck you will want to use a good quality stone impregnating sealer. Impregnators are designed to sink into the pores of the stone and protect it from within. You DO NOT want to use any sealers that place a topical layer over the surface of the stone. This will block the breathing of the stone and will not allow it to breathe.  Some good impregnators can be purchased at most home improvement centers. Here is a list of a few that will work.

Impregnator  sealer brands

                Miracle Sealants 511

                Aqua Mix Sealers Choice Gold

           

Caution: Avoid impregnators that are designed for color enhancing. These sealers will darken the stone.

How do you know if your stone deck needs to be sealed? Test the stone surface by placing some water on the stone. Wait five minutes to see if the water soaks into the stone. This will result in a dark area. If the stone soaks up the water than seal with a good quality stone impregnating sealer per directions below.

 

 

Directions for applying the impregnator.

 

Clean the surface of the stone thoroughly using a neutral cleaner and water, making sure to remove any dirt, dust, or stains.

Allow the stone to dry completely. This may take several days. Ideally check with a  moisture meter.

Shake the impregnator well before use.

Apply the impregnator to the stone surface using a brush, roller, or sprayer. Be sure to saturate the stone completely but avoid leaving any excess impregnator on the surface.

Allow the impregnator to penetrate the stone for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer. I like to allow it to sit for 10 minutes.

Wipe any excess impregnator off the surface of the stone with a clean, dry cloth.

Allow the impregnator to cure completely before using the stone surface or applying any sealers. Usually, 24 hours is sufficient for curing.

Please note that different impregnators may have different instructions, please always refer to the product directions before use.

 

 

How to Remove Rust Stains from stone pool pavers

Rust stains can occur from furniture place on the stone surface as well as from irrigation water, etc. To remove them it is important to use the following procedures as soon as possible.

To remove rust stains from marble using a poultice, you will need the following materials:

• A mixing bowl
• A spoon or spatula
• A white, powdery rust remover (such as Iron Out*)
• A white, absorbent material (such as flour or talcum powder)
• Plastic wrap
• Painters Tape

Steps:

1. In the mixing bowl, combine equal parts of the rust remover and the absorbent material and water until it forms a paste.
2. Spread the paste over the rust stain(about 1/8 inch thick), and cover it with plastic wrap.
3. Secure the plastic wrap in place with tape.
4. Allow the poultice to sit on the stain for at least 24 hours.
5. Remove the plastic wrap and discard the poultice.
6. Rinse the area thoroughly with water and dry it with a clean cloth.

It is always recommended to test the solution on a small area before applying to the entire surface.

Important- Iron Out is available in a liquid and powder. Do not use the liquid. Only use the powdered Iron Out.

 

Removing other Stains from your Stone Pool deck

 

Stains other than rust can be caused by wine or other food and drinks. The following is how to remove them.

 

1. Mix a cleaning agent that is appropriate for the type of stain and the type of stone. Common cleaning agents used in poultices include hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and ammonia.
2. Add an absorbent material to the cleaning agent to create a thick paste. Common absorbent materials used in poultices include flour, talcum powder, and diatomaceous earth.
3. Apply the poultice to the stain and cover it with plastic wrap or wax paper to keep it from drying out.
4. Allow the poultice to sit on the stain for at least 24 hours, or longer if the stain is particularly stubborn.
5. Remove the poultice and wipe the area with a clean, damp cloth.
6. Rinse the area thoroughly with water and dry it with a clean cloth.

Note: Before trying poultice method, test the cleaning agent on a small, inconspicuous area of the stone to make sure it doesn't damage or discolor the stone. Also always make sure to read the instructions for the cleaning agent and for the stone.

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Most wine and other food and drink stains can be removed with the above procedure with a 20 volume hydrogen peroxide solution. This peroxide can be purchased at most beauty supply stores as hair developer.

 

Follow the above advise and you will enjoy your stone pool deck for years.

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