What’s the Dark Ring Around my Granite/Quartzite Sink

 

What’s the Dark Ring Around my Granite/Quartzite Sink

By Frederick M. Hueston

You've probably heard of ring around the collar, and in the stone business, we sometimes refer to it as "ring around the sink" or "ring around the profile." Recently, I have been inundated with inquiries on the reason why particular granites and quartzites begin to form a dark ring around the perimeter of the sink and sometimes around the top edge of the profile. This darkening can occasionally appear shortly after the installation, while other times it can take several months before it becomes noticeable. What factors have contributed to this darkening, and more importantly, how can it be remedied?

 

The formation of a dark ring around the sink or profile of granite and quartzite is a common occurrence, and several factors can contribute to its development. One primary factor is the accumulation of soap residue, body oils, and other substances that are not entirely removed during regular cleaning. Over time, these substances can create a dark and unsightly ring that can be difficult to remove.

Another factor is the porosity of the stone. Certain granites and quartzites are more porous than others, which makes them more susceptible to staining and discoloration. Additionally, the type of sealer used during installation can play a role in the formation of a dark ring. If a low-quality sealer is used, it may not provide adequate protection against staining and discoloration.

Not sealing the underside or sides of the stone can also cause moisture to soak in causing these rings.

Also, the use of certain caulking types such as silicone and acrylics that are used to seal the sink to the stone can bleed into the stone causing it to darken.

 

Fortunately, there are several remedies for these issues. The first step is to thoroughly clean the affected area using a mild soap and warm water. For stubborn stains, a poultice can be used to pull the stain out.

To check for moisture use a moisture meter to see if the darkening is moisture. If it is moisture, it can sometime be dried out by carefully using a hair dryer or heat gun.

If the staining is caused by the caulking used than the sink may have to be removed, the caulking scraped away, a poultice applied and then reinstalled with a non-staining caulk.

 

 

Once the darkening has been removed, it is crucial to apply a high-quality sealer to protect the stone from further staining and discoloration. The seal should be applied to the sides as well as the overhang on the sink.

While ring around the sink may be an unsightly and frustrating issue, it is a common one that can be remedied with proper cleaning and the application of a high-quality sealer.  

 

The Importance of Installing Expansion Joints In a Stone/Tile Shower: What You Need to Know

 

The Importance of Installing Expansion Joints In a Stone/Tile Shower: What You Need to Know

 

By Frederick M. Hueston, StoneForensics.com

 

Have you ever taken a look at the corners of a stone or tile shower and seen that they are all cracked, and in some cases, the grout is completely missing? What about the part of the wall that is flush with the floor? Why does this area have such a propensity for cracking and falling out? The cause is that there are not enough expansion joints or that there are hard joints where there should be soft ones. An important step that needs to be taken before any tiling can be done in a tile or stone shower is the installation of expansion joints in the walls and floor of the shower. The tile must be able to expand and contract in response to changes in temperature, so the installation of expansion joints is required. Tiles are susceptible to cracking and shifting when there are no expansion joints present, which can result in expensive repairs and possible water damage.

The use of expansion joints in a stone/tile shower makes it possible for the tile to expand and contract in response to variations in temperature. When it comes to durability and lifespan, expansion joints are absolutely necessary. If they are not installed correctly, they have the potential to induce cracks in the tile, which will ultimately lead to the tile's early failure. When installing a tiled shower, the joints are placed at the points where the tile meets another material, such as at the intersection of the wall and floor to walls. The joint is filled with a soft caulk such as silicone or urethane, and the amount of caulk used in the joint expands and shrinks depending on the temperature of the region around it. This caulking should be water resistant, mold resistant, and bacterium resistant as well.

Installing expansion joints in a stone/tile shower is a straightforward process inspect the shower for cracks and leaks in the tile or other damage to the walls and floor. You will also want to make sure that the wall and floor are level. remove the old, damaged tile and clean the walls and floor thoroughly.

purchase and install the right type of caulking. There are many types of caulk that can be used and some of them are appropriate for tile and other may stain certain stone.  The following is a breakdown of caulks available:

 

100% Pure Silicone Caulk

The most common type of sealant is silicone caulk, which can also be referred to as rubberized caulking. This caulking is ideal for repairing minor leaks and mold in your shower. It is very easy to apply, it can address all problem areas without any issues, and the rubbery feel stays with it forever, which makes it great for handling the movements in the joints where other options can fracture. Because of these qualities, it is a highly popular choice.

 

The fact that it can be controlled with relative ease, on the other hand, is the key factor that contributes to its popularity. Silicone caulk may be applied directly to your shower, and because it enables a more accurate application, you won't need to use as much of it as you would with other caulks. This cuts down on waste.

 

Because of its longevity and resilience to water, it is the superior material to use in a showers, facets, and other similar areas. It is also more resistant to extremes of temperature, both hot and cold.

Silicon caulk is one of the alternatives that often carries a higher price tag than the others. However, if you take into account how long its effects will stay, you will see that purchasing it is money well spent.

The material is incapable of holding paint, but the problem can be remedied by painting over it with a thin coating of siliconized acrylic latex or by using a primer that is based on oil.

Inorganic Latex Acrylic

This is a low-cost, all-purpose caulk that is simple to work with and can be put to use in a variety of different situations. Additionally, it is simple to paint over. Latex is an excellent material to employ in places with a high porosity and is, in general, the more preferred choice because to the inexpensive cost. This material is a great alternative to silicone caulk because it is not difficult to clean (latex is water soluble), and it is readily available. In addition to that, it dries more quicker and, of all the things on this list, it is possibly the most resistant to mold.

On the other hand, its resistance to water is not nearly on par with that of a 100% silicone. Because of this specific reason, it is possible that it is not the greatest choice for the shower.

Since it is not very expensive, you may always continue applying it to cure small concerns, but problems like cracking and flaking will keep recurring often even after repeated applications.

Caulk made of latex or acrylic, combined with silicone

This hybrid variety of caulk is variously referred to as "painter's caulk" and "tub and tile" caulk. It is comparable to acrylic latex, but offers greater flexibility as an alternative, despite the fact that it is not as flexible as a material composed entirely of silicone. Because it contains silicone, this alternative to traditional latex caulk is both more durable and more resistant to moisture than the latter. It can be the excellent substitute for acrylic latex, and it makes painting over it very easy to do. It is perfect for spots that require only a minimal amount of waterproofing.

Even though the packaging indicates that it is resistant to water, it is recommended that you only apply it on the dry areas that are covered in paint so that the exterior can continue to be protected. It is not a caulking alternative that is particularly successful, which is why it is not recommend using it.

PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) (Polyvinyl Acetate)

This caulking substance is manufactured from polyvinyl and has all of the features of polyvinyl, such as resistance to mold, durability, and heat resistance. It is very similar to the acrylic latex product, which is also made from polyvinyl. PVA is another alternative that can be painted over.

It does not have very good resistance to water and it deteriorates over time.

Expansion joints, when they are appropriately installed, not only prevent future failures but also improve the overall appearance of the installation, which in turn raises its aesthetic value and ensures that it will last for a longer period of time.

 

The Use of Color Enhancers on Stone Surfaces

By Frederick M. Hueston StoneForensics.com

 

Natural or artificial stone surfaces are renowned for their sturdiness, adaptability, and beauty. Unfortunately, the hue of the stone may fade or become dull with time due to exposure to the environment and normal wear and tear. Thankfully, there are color enhancers that may bring out the stone's natural tones and patterns, giving it a lively and alluring appearance. We'll go through how to apply color enhancers to stone surfaces in this article.

 

Recognize the kind of stone surface you have:

The initial stage is to determine the kind of stone surface you have. On various types of stones, color enhancers function in various ways. For instance, some stones, like marble or quartzite, may take more time and effort to get the desired results than others, such as granite, slate, and sandstone, which are very porous and quickly absorb the enhancer. The best color enhancer for the job will be easier to select if you are aware of the sort of stone surface you have.

 

Choose the proper color enhancer:

Several color enhancer kinds, including penetrating, topical, and wet-look enhancers, are available. The natural colors and patterns of the stone are enhanced with penetrating enhancers, which are absorbed into the stone's pores. Comparatively, topically applied boosters give the stone a layer of defense against stains and abrasions. Wet-look enhancers give the surface of the stone a glossy, polished appearance.

Color enhancers are also available in a solvent or water based carrier. It is best to test both for desired results.

 

 

 

Prepare the stone surface:

 It's critical to properly clean the stone surface before applying the color enhancer. To clean any dirt, debris, or stains from the surface, use a pH-neutral cleanser. Clean the surface with water, then allow it to thoroughly dry. Before applying the enhancer, treat any areas with a stone-specific stain remover if there are any serious stains.

Apply the color enhancer:

 After the surface has been well cleaned and dried, the color enhancer should be used. Pay close attention to the directions on the product label. Most of the time, you'll need to use a brush or a spray bottle to apply the enhancer. Be sure to uniformly cover the entire surface. To get the desired effect while using a penetrating enhancer, you might need to apply more than one coat. Before touching the surface, let the enhancer entirely dry.

 

Maintain the stone surface:

 It's critical to maintain the stone surface properly to ensure that the color enhancer lasts for a long period. On the surface, stay away from applying strong chemicals or acidic cleaners. For routine cleaning, use a pH-neutral cleaner made especially for stone surfaces. If something spills on the surface, clean it up right once to avoid stains. Moreover, stay away from setting hot pans or pots directly on stone surfaces as this can harm the color enhancer.

 

Applying color enhancers to stone surfaces can accentuate the stone's inherent beauty and safeguard it from normal wear and strain. To get the desired results, you must select the suitable enhancer and thoroughly prepare the surface. These techniques can help you maintain the attractiveness and vibrancy of your stone surfaces for many years to come.

Removing Calcium build Up from non-calcite exterior stone

 

Removing Calcium build Up from non-calcite exterior stone

By Frederick M Hueston, StoneForensics.com

Removing white calcium buildup from exterior stone can be a difficult task, but it is doable with the right tools and techniques. Here are some steps to take in order to remove white calcium from exterior stone:

1. Begin by combining one cup of sulfamic acid with one gallon of water. This will produce a mild acid solution that will aid in the breakdown of the calcium buildup.

2. Using a spray bottle or a brush, apply the solution to the affected area of the stone. Make sure to thoroughly saturate the area.

3. Allow at least 15 minutes for the solution to sit on the stone. This will allow the acid to penetrate the calcium buildup and begin to break it down.

4. Scrub the affected area with a stiff-bristled brush. To remove as much calcium buildup as possible, apply firm pressure and scrub in a circular motion.

5. Thoroughly rinse the area with water to remove any remaining solution and debris. Once all the calcium is removed neutralize with a neutral cleaner.

6. Repeat steps 2–5 as needed to remove the calcium buildup.

It's important to note that the steps above are only guidelines; depending on the type of stone, the severity of the stain, and the type of calcium deposit, some stones may require more aggressive acids like hydrochloric.

A mild acid solution, a stiff-bristled brush, and some elbow grease are required to remove white calcium buildup from exterior stone. You can restore the beauty of your exterior stone and protect it from future damage with patience and persistence.

Caution: Do not use this method on calcium based stone such as limestone or marble. There are removers that are non acidic that are available from your stone equipment suppliers.

How to Clean and Maintain a Stone Pool Deck

 

How to Clean and Maintain a Stone Pool Deck

By Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

 

You just had a new stone deck installed and your wondering what do I do next. How do I maintain it? Do I need to seal it? How do I deal with stains? The following will give you the guidance you need to keep your stone pool deck looking new.

 

Basic Maintenance

 

To maintain a stone pool deck, you should regularly:

1.      Sweep or blow leaves and debris off the deck to prevent staining and discoloration.

2.      Clean the deck with a neutral cleaner and water to remove any dirt or algae that may have accumulated.

3.      Seal the deck every 1-2 years to protect the stone from water damage and staining.

4.      Check for and repair any cracks or chips in the stone to prevent further damage.

5.      Keep the pH levels of your pool water balanced to prevent damage to the deck.

6.      Keep the trees and plants around the pool trimmed to prevent leaves and branches from falling on the deck.

7.      Use mats or rugs to prevent any scratches or stains from pool chairs and other furniture.

8.      Consider using a professional cleaning service to maintain your stone pool deck for optimal results.

 

 

Other Issues that may arise

 

Sinking Pavers- If you notice your pavers becoming uneven or sinking, consider the location of the affected area. If it's around the pool shell, it may be due to a broken pipe or improper backfill compaction, which requires a professional repair. If the sinking is happening in other areas, it's likely due to poor sub-base compaction. To fix this, remove the pavers in the affected area and add more fill.

 

Weed Growth-Weeds grow by seedlings landing in joint spaces where sand has washed out between pavers, not from the bottom up. Properly installed pavers with good materials can help prevent weed growth, but weeds can still find ways to grow. Spot weed killer can effectively treat isolated weed issues, but avoid oil-based products as they can stain natural stone pavers.

 

Ants- Ants can create unsightly sand dunes on your patio and pose a stinging hazard. To get rid of them, you can use a mild insect repellent and spray it on any nests or areas with a lot of ants. As a longer-term solution, consider having an insect treatment sprayed around the area. Additionally, using a product like "sand lock" can prevent ants from accessing the sand between your pavers.

Other cautions for avoiding ants are as follows:

1.      Keep the area clean: Ants are attracted to food and sugary substances, so make sure to clean up any spills or crumbs on the pool deck.

2.      Use ant baits: Ant baits contain a slow-acting poison that the ants will take back to their colony, killing the queen and the rest of the colony.

3.      Use a natural repellent: Essential oils like peppermint, cinnamon, and citrus can help to repel ants. Mix a few drops of the oil with water and place in containers around the perimeter of the pool deck.

4.      Use a barrier: A barrier of diatomaceous earth or talcum powder can help to keep ants off the pool deck.

5.      Call a professional exterminator: If the ant problem persists, you may want to consider calling a professional exterminator to help control the infestation.

It's important to remember that preventing ants from entering your home is the best way to control them.

 

 

 

Sealing Your Stone Pool Deck

To seal your stone paver pool deck you will want to use a good quality stone impregnating sealer. Impregnators are designed to sink into the pores of the stone and protect it from within. You DO NOT want to use any sealers that place a topical layer over the surface of the stone. This will block the breathing of the stone and will not allow it to breathe.  Some good impregnators can be purchased at most home improvement centers. Here is a list of a few that will work.

Impregnator  sealer brands

                Miracle Sealants 511

                Aqua Mix Sealers Choice Gold

           

Caution: Avoid impregnators that are designed for color enhancing. These sealers will darken the stone.

How do you know if your stone deck needs to be sealed? Test the stone surface by placing some water on the stone. Wait five minutes to see if the water soaks into the stone. This will result in a dark area. If the stone soaks up the water than seal with a good quality stone impregnating sealer per directions below.

 

 

Directions for applying the impregnator.

 

Clean the surface of the stone thoroughly using a neutral cleaner and water, making sure to remove any dirt, dust, or stains.

Allow the stone to dry completely. This may take several days. Ideally check with a  moisture meter.

Shake the impregnator well before use.

Apply the impregnator to the stone surface using a brush, roller, or sprayer. Be sure to saturate the stone completely but avoid leaving any excess impregnator on the surface.

Allow the impregnator to penetrate the stone for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer. I like to allow it to sit for 10 minutes.

Wipe any excess impregnator off the surface of the stone with a clean, dry cloth.

Allow the impregnator to cure completely before using the stone surface or applying any sealers. Usually, 24 hours is sufficient for curing.

Please note that different impregnators may have different instructions, please always refer to the product directions before use.

 

 

How to Remove Rust Stains from stone pool pavers

Rust stains can occur from furniture place on the stone surface as well as from irrigation water, etc. To remove them it is important to use the following procedures as soon as possible.

To remove rust stains from marble using a poultice, you will need the following materials:

• A mixing bowl
• A spoon or spatula
• A white, powdery rust remover (such as Iron Out*)
• A white, absorbent material (such as flour or talcum powder)
• Plastic wrap
• Painters Tape

Steps:

1. In the mixing bowl, combine equal parts of the rust remover and the absorbent material and water until it forms a paste.
2. Spread the paste over the rust stain(about 1/8 inch thick), and cover it with plastic wrap.
3. Secure the plastic wrap in place with tape.
4. Allow the poultice to sit on the stain for at least 24 hours.
5. Remove the plastic wrap and discard the poultice.
6. Rinse the area thoroughly with water and dry it with a clean cloth.

It is always recommended to test the solution on a small area before applying to the entire surface.

Important- Iron Out is available in a liquid and powder. Do not use the liquid. Only use the powdered Iron Out.

 

Removing other Stains from your Stone Pool deck

 

Stains other than rust can be caused by wine or other food and drinks. The following is how to remove them.

 

1. Mix a cleaning agent that is appropriate for the type of stain and the type of stone. Common cleaning agents used in poultices include hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and ammonia.
2. Add an absorbent material to the cleaning agent to create a thick paste. Common absorbent materials used in poultices include flour, talcum powder, and diatomaceous earth.
3. Apply the poultice to the stain and cover it with plastic wrap or wax paper to keep it from drying out.
4. Allow the poultice to sit on the stain for at least 24 hours, or longer if the stain is particularly stubborn.
5. Remove the poultice and wipe the area with a clean, damp cloth.
6. Rinse the area thoroughly with water and dry it with a clean cloth.

Note: Before trying poultice method, test the cleaning agent on a small, inconspicuous area of the stone to make sure it doesn't damage or discolor the stone. Also always make sure to read the instructions for the cleaning agent and for the stone.

Top of Form

Most wine and other food and drink stains can be removed with the above procedure with a 20 volume hydrogen peroxide solution. This peroxide can be purchased at most beauty supply stores as hair developer.

 

Follow the above advise and you will enjoy your stone pool deck for years.

Bottom of Form

 

Caring for your Concrete pool deck

 

Caring for your concrete pool deck

Frederick M. Hueston stoneforensics.com

Concrete is an ideal material for pool decks due to its durability, affordability, custom design capabilities, and environmental friendliness. It is perfect for high traffic areas like pools.

Just because concrete is low maintenance doesn't mean it requires no upkeep. Proper care is crucial to maintain its appearance, as the area has likely cost a significant amount of money. Neglecting debris, leaves, dirt, and potential animal intrusions can lead to damage if left unchecked. It's best to address any issues promptly.

Cleaning a concrete pool deck is not as challenging as commonly believed. With the correct tools and method, it can be easily maintained. It's important to keep some key considerations in mind during the process.

Cleaning Frequency

Concrete pool decks should typically be cleaned at least annually, but if the area is heavily used, more frequent cleaning may be required if stains appear.

Being a pool owner includes regular cleaning and maintenance. Initially, it may seem time-consuming, but with experience, you will learn effective methods to make the process more efficient.

Start the cleaning process by clearing the area of all furniture, pool toys, and other items. Remember that dirt and grime can accumulate under furniture and go unnoticed. This can cause mold or mildew spots if left untreated, so be thorough when cleaning to prevent future problems. Cleaning under furniture multiple times a year, even if not thoroughly, can prevent stains from developing and make future cleanings easier.

 How to Clean your pool deck

You'll need a few essential items in order to effectively finish cleaning the concrete pool deck. One of the most crucial tools is a pressure washer because it makes cleaning the area more quicker than trying to do it by hand. To get rid of any stains that have built up over time and are difficult to handle, you'll also need a cleaning solution and a scrub brush. You may either buy a concrete-safe commercial pool deck cleaning solution or prepare your own by combining warm water and dish soap.

If you decide to go this method, start with a ratio of 10 parts water to 1 part dish soap. For optimal results, use a light dish soap that degreases. When you start the procedure and realize the solution isn't strong enough, gradually add more soap to the mixture until the desired effects start to appear. To get the solution to work precisely how you need it to, it can require a little bit of trial and error.

For stubborn stains, mix the aforementioned dish soap with 1 cup of bleach per gallon of water. Below is further information on how to particularly remove stains.

Depending on the circumstance, you could also require a mop and a sizable, spotless bucket for combining your cleaning solution.

Following the removal of all furniture and other items from the pool deck, take the following actions:

• Use a pressure washer to thoroughly clean the pool deck. Make several passes as necessary, depending on how much debris has accumulated. Be careful not to use a zero tip on the pressure washer. Use a fan tip and hold it at least 24 inches from the surface of the deck.

Use your garden hose instead of a pressure washer if you don't have one available, but keep in mind that the job will take longer.

• In the big, clean bucket, combine your preferred concrete cleanser.

• Apply the cleanser with your mop to the entire concrete pool deck.

• Pressure wash once more as necessary to get rid of the extra cleaning agent.

 

Keep an eye on the appearance of your concrete pool deck before, during, and after this procedure. Particularly if you're not dealing with any challenging stains, you ought to notice a sizable difference immediately. To return your concrete pool deck to its previous appearance and sparkle, you'll need to repeat the procedure as often as necessary.

 

Stain Removal?

As previously mentioned, you will have to work on those challenging locations by hand to remove stains that have grown on your concrete pool deck. Apply the cleaning agent to the surface and scrub. If you're using a commercial cleaner, read the recommendations carefully because you might need to let it sit in the area for a while for it to work most effectively.

Then, using a scrub brush, manually remove the stains. Don't be afraid to exert some power; this is unquestionably one of those circumstances where a little bit of effort goes a long way. Do not be afraid to let the area dry and try again if the stains cannot be eliminated on the first attempt.

Safety is a crucial factor to take into account while using any kind of cleaning solution, whether it is manufactured at home or bought from a store. Rubber gloves should still be worn even when you're outside and in an area that should be adequately ventilated to prevent coming into contact with the solution. Additionally advised as an additional layer of defense is eye protection. To prevent breathing in the fumes from the solution that can develop, several specialists even wear breathing masks.

Use your pressure washer to rinse the area one more to eliminate any remaining solution when you are certain that the stain has been removed and the concrete pool deck is as clean as you want it to be. Avoid coming into contact with any flowerbeds, trees, or other plants that may be a part of your landscape while carrying out this task. It's possible that the extra cleaning solution will hurt them. Additionally, you should refrain from touching the pool area's furniture during this time because the solution, particularly one that contains bleach, may result in long-term problems.

Maintaining the pool deck

You must carry out this kind of deep cleaning at least once a year, if not more frequently, to maintain your concrete pool deck. Many pool owners clean their pools twice a year, in the spring and the fall. If there has been a lot of foot traffic in the area, if soil is routinely moved onto the deck, or if there is a lot of trash buildup from nearby trees or plants, you might need to do this more frequently.

Also keep in mind that having animals around could make cleaning more necessary frequently. It's best to address the issue now rather than waiting for an eventual long-term problem to arise because animal droppings can quickly result in stains.

If you haven't already, consider spending money on a waterproof deck coating for your concrete pool deck to make the process simpler in the future. This helps to make the area easier to clean in general and can help to keep surfaces stain-free even when they are heavily used. Your pool deck will last longer and look better over the entire season, just as it should.

This is important to remember because unfinished concrete is porous by nature. Because of this, things like a pool deck made of unsealed concrete are naturally prone to mold and mildew. The problem is only made worse by the fact that this surface is situated next to a sizable body of water. Similar to how you can prevent immediate problems, avoid keeping wet towels, cloths, or other damp items on the surface itself.

Additionally, you should fight the impulse to grow big plants right next to your concrete pool deck. This will lessen the possibility of root injury.

When possible, always take out everything composed of metal from your concrete pool deck. With so much moisture present, even little objects can rust, staining the concrete deck surface.

Finally, you should take care of any little cracks or chips in the concrete pool deck that you uncover throughout the year to help make cleaning simpler and prevent long-term damage. Even if a tiny crack doesn't affect you particularly, you should nonetheless fix it right away. Almost always, small problems will grow into much larger ones that are far more difficult and expensive to resolve. They may also pose possible risks to the safety of those using the pool's perimeter.

 

 

Walk Off and Entrance Mats for your Stone Floors

 

Walk Off and Entrance Mats for your Stone Floors

By Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

 

Marble and other stone flooring have long been prized as a symbol of elegance and wealth. However, the cold, hard truth is that if not handled carefully, they can be just that—cold and hard, not to mention expensive to replace. Walk off or entrance mats are necessary to protect your marble/stone floors from stains and scratches, prevent rugs from slipping, and add protection and cushioning.

 

To prevent slipping on marble/stone floors, walk off mats backing needs significant gripping force. Be sure to look for backing made of natural rubber rather than synthetic adhesives and glues, which can stick to and stain floors, to protect your priceless marble/stone floors and keep mats firmly in place. Natural rubber naturally and securely attaches to carpets and floors, whether used alone or in combination with felt. Heat-pressed felt, which delivers a blend of grip and cushion when paired with natural rubber, is also naturally long-lasting.

Keeping your Walk Off Mats Clean

Every floor mat needs to be cleaned frequently. However, this is particularly crucial for entrance floor mats. Entrance floormats are frequently subjected to highly adverse weather and environmental circumstances. This occurs as a result of the installation of entrance mats across the doorway. Others are positioned right outside the door, while others are placed right within the house. The doorway is covered with additional entrance mats that stretch both inside and outside the house or building. As a result, more dirt and moisture are present on the mat because it is exposed to exterior weather and environmental factors. The heavy use is another justification for routine entrance mat cleaning. Anyone entering your house or office building must tread on and scrape on the welcome mat. This implies that a lot of dirt, muck, wetness, and debris are collected by entrance mats. To make your entrance floor mats more practical and to maintain your building clean, you should give them a thorough cleaning.

Also don’t forget the underside. Many walk off mats can accumulate moisture under them and this can cause staining on the stone floor. You should remove the mats regularly and clean and dry the underside.

There are many types of mats available so be sure to check with your local janitorial supplier for recommendations. Even the best mats if not properly cleaned can damage stone floor so make sure to regularly clean these mats and if they are worn replace them.

 

Common Wood Floor Failures

 

Common Wood Floor Failures

 

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Natural wood floors add special warmth to a space and can increase the value of a home or business. However, with that said, wood floors are not flawless, and problems can arise that distract from their beauty. Some of these problems can result in long-term damage. All wood floors eventually deteriorate, but if they show signs of deterioration after just a few years, then it is likely that either something went wrong during the installation or that the floor was not properly maintained. This article is a brief guide to some of the most common issues with wood flooring and how to avoid or repair them.

 

Improper Prep Before and During Finish Application

 

Before a finish is placed, the floor must be properly sanded and cleaned to receive the finish. If not, the finish tends to peel. In addition, the finish must be abraded and cleaned in between coats, and adequate drying time allowed before a topcoat is applied. Failure to do any of these things can result in the finish peeling.

 

Improper Wood Floor Sanding

 

Improperly sanded floors have sanding grooves that are problematic to finish application. Wood floor finish settles at the bottom of these sanding grooves, but the tops of the grooves receive little to no finish. Consequently, surface deteriorates when the floor is exposed to foot traffic. To avoid this problem, try sanding bare boards to either 100 or 120 grit, depending on the finish.

 

Pay attention to the sanding materials you use in between coats of finish. Old abrasive screens or sanding pads can cause unattractive scratches that resemble spider webs on a wood floor. Additional finishes can accentuate these flaws. By the time you finish the job, poor sanding will be very obvious. To eliminate these scratches, the finish must be sanded past the coat where the scratches were first produced. Unfortunately, it can be challenging or even impossible to determine which coat of finish is scratched, so your best bet would be to start over and completely refinish the floor.

 

For proper wood floor sanding, sand between each finish application with high-quality abrasive pads that produce smaller, less apparent, and more numerous scratches. A suitable scratch pattern can greatly improve adhesion between finish applications. When sanding oil-based polyurethanes, use 150- to 180-grit pads, and when sanding between applications of water-based finishes, use 220-grit pads.

 

For the best finish, use the best sandpaper.

 

Inadequate Wood Floor Finish Drying Time

If coats of finish are added too quickly, the finish could take up to six months to cure. The result will be a wood floor with an aged appearance. Be sure to allow adequate drying time between finish applications.

 

Improper Wood Floor Maintenance

 

Thoroughly polished and sanded wood floors will need periodic professional services in order to maintain a pristine, welcoming appearance. Damage to the finish can happen in numerous ways. Grit on wood floors behaves like sandpaper with foot traffic. Unprotected furniture feet or unclipped pet nails can severely damage a finish, as well. Sometimes re-coating a slightly worn floor without completely removing the original finish can dramatically improve the appearance of the floor. On the other hand, it is better to sand down a floor to bare wood and refinish it if it has significant wear and severe scratches.

 

Other Common Problems

Other common problems with wood floors include peeling, grit and foreign particles in the finish, finish droplets, stains, gaps, cupping, buckling/sagging, and cracks. Let's take a look at each of them.

 

Peeling

 

The most frequent source of peeling is excess stain that is not removed from the floor before applying finish. Remove excess stain no later than three minutes after it has been applied and allow the floor to completely dry before applying the finish to avoid a buildup of stain residue. Don't use several applications of stain too quickly. Allow it to dry.

 

Other causes of peeling include using finishes that are incompatible with each other or applying finishes to burnished wood, that is, wood that has become too smooth because of high-grit over-sanding.

 

When a floor peels, the best solution is to sand the floor down to the bare wood and start over. The issue might not be resolved by simply abrading the floor and applying a fresh topcoat, because furniture polishes, waxes, and oils used to clean wood floors can soak into the pores of the finish and may hinder new finish from successfully adhering.

 

Grit and Foreign Particles

 

Wet paint functions like a sizable piece of flypaper. Once the finish is complete, any dust or animal hair that gets inside of it will be more noticeable. Clean every surface in the room, including light fixtures and walls, before finishing the floor to keep debris from damaging the finish. Sweep the floor and wipe it down with a tack cloth, but never use tack cloths made for use on automobiles. They can have silicone in them, which jeopardizes the finish.

 

Line your applicator tray with an inside-out garbage bag. Strain the finish before being pouring it into the applicator. Finally, carefully wash and vacuum the applicator to eliminate any remaining loose fibers.

 

In the event that some debris penetrates the finish, make repairs by sanding the floor between applications of finish and then painting the floor with a fresh topcoat.

 

Finish Droplets

 

Moisture is always to blame when tiny polyurethane droplets collect around the borders of each floorboard. The polyurethane that flows into the spaces between the floorboards as the floor moves is what causes the droplets. This issue typically arises when a floor is being finished during the transition between dry and humid seasons. The boards expand as they acclimatize to the weather, pushing any uncured polyurethane out of the gap.

 

Poly droplets can be eliminated with a razor blade, a rag, and floor cleaner if they are discovered in time. If a mess has already been formed, either from walking on the droplets or from allowing them to dry, then each droplet must be manually removed with a razor blade from the floor before the entire surface is abraded in order to prepare for a new topcoat.

 

Stains

 

The most common cause of wood floor stains is pet accidents, although water can also be very destructive. A wood-floor cleanser can typically remove stains that have accumulated on a floor finish, but stains that have penetrated the wood surface must be sanded off. Stains that seep into the wood fibers are the most challenging to remove.

 

Two-part wood bleach can be used to restore the surface of a stained wood floor. Bleach the entire floor, not just a portion of it. (This requires a lot more work but results in a floor with a uniform gloss and hue.) After a couple of hours, neutralize the floor, and once it has dried, it can be sanded and refinished. Deeply soiled floorboards, particularly those that have been affected by pet urine, are typically replaced. However, removing stains with two-part wood bleach can also work.

 

This stain removal method comes with some negative aspects. The tendency of bleach to break down wood fibers can make wood more prone to denting. Additionally, there is no guarantee that the bleach will completely remove the stains from the wood, so wood flooring or floorboards may still need to be replaced.

 

Gaps

 

Wood flooring is susceptible to shifting. Properly installed floorboards will hold tightly together during the humid seasons of the year and may show gaps during the dry seasons. The installation of flooring in overly dry places can also result in abnormal gaps, which are typically caused by the flooring being too moist when it is put in place. Examples include regions that receive a lot of sunlight, floorboards installed directly over heating ducts, and houses heated by wood stoves, which produce a dry indoor environment.

 

Gaps can be an aesthetic problem and should be fixed anytime they detract from the appearance of the entire floor. Fix abnormal gaps during the wettest season of the year when gaps are the smallest. Closing gaps when they are at their widest could result in a floor that buckles due to insufficient space for expansion.

 

Finally, never fill gaps with wood filler. Instead, use wood glue to attach small pieces of wood to the floorboard borders to create a repair. To avoid gluing any boards together, take care to just apply glue to one side of the sliver.

 

Cupping

 

A board's edges cup when the bottom is wetter than the top. The most frequent cause of cupping is the installation of flooring over a damp basement or crawlspace. Although cupping is more likely to occur on wide plank flooring, it can also occur on strip flooring.

 

Vapor retarders can improve the situation by reducing the rate of moisture migration but should not be considered a long-term fix for moisture issues. For strip flooring laid over traditionally constructed floors, use a vapor retarder. On floors over slabs, install broad plank flooring, or install radiant heating.

 

Once moisture problems have been resolved, some cupped floors flatten while others will remain irreversibly distorted. When the moisture content of the top and bottom of the boards is within 1%, a floor that does not lie flat will need to be sanded. To inspect the board bottoms, drill a moisture meter through the subfloor. Do not sand the peaked edges of a floor that has been cupped too soon, or you will risk having crowned boards once the wood is completely dry.

 

Buckling and Sagging

 

Too much moisture can cause wood flooring to expand to the point that it rises off the subfloor, causing shifts to door frames and separation of floor trim from walls. A floor may sag because of a flood, a moist basement, or from being installed when it was too dry. In any event, moisture is the primary cause of buckling and sagging.

 

Proper fastening can help prevent buckling and sagging. Nails should be the right size and spaced correctly. Using the proper size trowel during glue-down installations can help ensure a strong bond between the floors and the subfloor. Poor fastening can make buckling and sagging problems worse.

 

Some buckled floorboards can be refastened, but some need to be taken out. When feasible, reuse floorboards, but if the tongues and grooves are broken or the boards are damaged, you must replace them. Do not attempt to restore buckled flooring until moisture problems have been resolved and the moisture content of the floorboards and subfloor is at the proper level.

 

Cracks

 

Compared to other types of flooring, factory-finished wood floors have more cracks, and a wood flooring nailer can easily ruin the finish on these boards. Most manufacturers produce adapters for their nailers that prevent the force of the nailer from concentrating on the surface of the floorboards.

 

Boards with a severely damaged edges should be immediately replaced during installation.

 

The faces of floorboards, whether factory-finished or normal, can develop cracks. Checks in the wood are usually to blame for this damage. Some species of wood are more prone checking and cracking than others.

 

Manufacturers can also cause cracking if the kiln dries the wood too soon. A manufacturer repair kit, which normally consists of wood filler, colored marker, and a bottle of finish, can be used to fix factory-finished boards.  To ensure that the colors, tones, and sheen are exactly matched, replace the board, or fix the crack with wood filler before applying a layer of finish to the entire floor.

 

Follow these suggestions to resolve problems that diminish the beauty of wood floors or cause long-term damage. A properly installed and maintained wood floor can last a lifetime.