Why is my Pool Deck turning green and black?

 

Why is my Pool Deck turning green and black?

Frederick M. Hueston

 

What is that green and black stuff growing on my pool deck? The majority of these unsightly spots are the result of biological growth in the form of Algae, Molds, Lichens and  Mosses as well as plants such as ivy and grasses. The following guide will help you in identifying these biological growths as well as removing and controlling them.

Biological Growth Types

Algae

Algae is commonly green in color but can also be black, orange, red or yellow. It is easy to identify since it grows in mats, films and patches on the surface of stone, brick and Concrete.

Algae is a single cell plant but lacks roots, leaves, stems and vascular tissue.  Most algae, especially the green type needs moisture and sunlight to grow. However there are species that will grow in low light but damp moist areas are usually required.

Moss

The most common moss is green but can also be red. Like algae it requires sunlight and moisture to grow but in addition needs a mineral source often found in soils. Unlike algae it has root structure and a very small leaf structure. It will often be growing in the grout between the stone and masonry.

 Mold

Mold is not a plant but a fungus. It does not require sunlight but does require moisture and an organic food source. Mold is generally black in color but can also be red, organe, brown or yellow. Mold grows easily on many types of limestone since they contain organic matter to feed the mold.

Lichens

Lichens comprise a fungus living in a symbiotic relationship with an alga or cyanobacterium (or both in some instances). They can be red, yellow, red, green, white or yellow. They are identified by crusts or leaf like structures with defined borders, growing away from the surface of the stone or masonry.

Ivy, Grasses and Higher plants

 These plants are easily identified by there root system and there large leaf structure. They are often green in color.

 

Removal of Biological Growth

Regardless of the type of biological growth removal requires the uses of biocide cleaning chemicals such as peroxide, bleach and other biocides. The following is a basic cleaning procedure that is recommended to remove these growths.

 

1.     Wear gloves and protective clothing. A mask is recommended since some mold and algae spores can emit spores which can be harmful to your respiratory system.

2.     Algae is best removed when it is dry since the spores are more likely to become airborne when wet. Allow the surface to dry or dry it with a fan. Once dry remove as much as possible by scraping of scrubbing with a stiff broom or brush.

3.     A pressure washer can be used to remove the remaining biological growth but there are some precautions and recommendations as follows:

a.      Do not use high pressure. Test the pressure in a non-conspicuous area to make sure you are not damaging the stone or masonry.

b.     Use hot water if possible. Hot water will also kill some of the biological growth as well sanitize the surface.

c.      Use a wide nozzle tip to minimize damage. Keep the tip of the wand at least 12 inches away from the surface.

d.      

4.     Bleach or Vinegar can be used to clean suborn growth. Mix the bleach or vinegar. Use one cup of bleach or vinegar with one gallon of water. test this mixture in a non-conspicuous area to test for discoloration. Some stone and masonry types can lighten up with bleach or vinegar.

5.     Apply the bleach or Vinegar mixture on the deck and allow it to sit for 15-20 minutes. Do not let it dry. If it dries, apply more of this mixture.

6.     After 15-20 minutes scrub the area with a nylon brush and rinse with plenty of clean water. Be care of nearby plants since this mixture can kill landscaping plants and grasses.

In lieu of bleach or vinegar you can use many of the commercial cleaners that are available at most home centers. Be sure to read the directions carefully. 

Spot Removal

If you have just a few spots you can use 3% hydrogen peroxide. Simply spray the growth with the peroxide, allow it to sit for several minutes and then rinse with water.

 

 

Prevention

To keep biological growth at bay you should clean the deck on a regular bases. There are also sealers and preventive biocides that are available which will hasten the growth. But you best defense is to keep the deck clean.

The Use of Limestone in your Shower

 

Limestone Use in Wet Areas

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Over the past 30 years I have inspected hundreds if not thousands of shower installation that have use limestone.  The amount of deterioration I have observed in nearly all these installations ranged from staining to complete disintegration of the stone. Most will attempt to blame the installation method, but I can assure you these issues occur in installations that are installed within industry guidelines.

In a nutshell I would not recommend using limestone in wet areas. The following is why I would not recommend it

 

1.      Limestone is a sedimentary stone. It naturally contains minerals such as iron. When iron is exposed to continued wetting the iron will begin to oxidize causing a large stain. At first the stain may appear light brown but over time it will darken and continue to oxidize to a deep brown to reddish stain.  Removing the iron from the stone is nearly impossible since it is part of the mineral makeup of the stone.

2.      Limestone, even when sealed is typically very porous.  Water will enter the pores of the stone and react with the setting bed. The setting bed contains salts which become dissolved in the water. The water carries the salts into the pores of the stone. When the stone dries, the salts recrystallize causing pressure in the pores resulting in the stone blowing out(spalling).

3.      Limestone is an organic sedimentary rock that forms from the accumulation of shell, coral, algal, and fecal debris. It is formed by sediment settling to the bottom of a water basin. The main mineral is calcium carbonate.  Calcium carbonate can be soluble in water. This is yet another reason to avoid using limestone in a wet environment. Since it often contains organic matter, this too is soluble in water.

4.      Steam showers are even a bigger concern with limestone installation due to the fact the vapors produced by the steam can enter very tiny pores that liquid water cannot. The steam than condense in the pores causing the stone to deteriorate.

5.      The Natural Stone Institute, who is the leading trade association in the industry, recommends that only class A & B stones be used in interior wet areas. Limestone fall into a C class at best, Many fall into the D classification. For more info on this classification system go to The Natural Stone Institutes website at https://www.naturalstoneinstitute.org/

 

One may question the fact that limestone is used on building exteriors with no issues. This is true but there is a big difference. The average shower produces on average of over 8000 inches of water per year. To put this in perspective the rainiest area of earth is in China which has 321 inches of rain a year.. The average shower has over 26 times that amount. That’s a lot of water.

I have been in the stone business for over 35 years and have numerous colleges who agree that using limestone in a shower is not recommended.

Can Granite and Quartzite Etch

 

Can Granite and Quartzite Etch

Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

One of the advantages of having a granite or quartzite top is its resistance to etching.  Many stone fabricators recommend these stone for countertops due to the fact that they will not etch with common acidic food and beverages.  Acidic substances generally will not etch these stone cause they lack calcium. Calcium is the main mineral found in marbles and limestone. However, there is a substance they will produce an etch like mark on not only granite and quartzite but also on glass. This is what we call an alkaline etch. Alkaline are any chemical substance above 7 on the pH scale. Many household chemicals such as cleaners, soaps and detergents are alkaline in nature. Theses alkalis contain salts which can deposit on the surface or in the pores of the stone leaving a white haze. A good example of this is when your glasses in a dishwasher have a white cloudy film on them that won’t wipe off. This is caused by the harsh detergents in dishwashing soaps. The same reaction can take place on granite and quartzites.

How to remove Alkaline etching

Since an alkali is higher on the pH scale, an acid is needed to counter act the alkaline reaction. So a mild acid is recommend to remove the etch.  Take a rag or paper towel and soak it in white vinegar. Place the the rag on the etch and allow it to sit for several hours. The acid in the vinegar should react with the alkali salts and dissolve it. After several hours remove the rag and rinse the area with a neutral cleaner and dry. Examine the area.  In some cases the stone may need to be repolished by a professional.

Stone and Tile Damaged by Hurricane Laura?

 

Stone and Tile Floor Damaged from Hurricanes and Floods?  Replace or Repair (Hurricane Laura)

By Frederick M. Hueston

  Homeowners who have suffered water damage to their stone and tile floors can have difficulty determining if the flood has ruined their floors. It can be difficult to determine if a floor needs to be replaced or if it can be repaired. This is going to be a question that will need to be answered in light of Laura, the recent Hurricane that hit Louisiana. To determine the extent of damage and to ultimately settle on a value for the claim a throughout understanding of what can cause these damages is necessary. The following article will help you understand what can happen when a stone or tile floor is flooded. As an expert witness I have been involved in many cases where flooding is an issue. Many times, the wrong process is used for cleaning which can cause greater, and perhaps irreversible, damage to the floor.

 

In addition, many insurance companies will not pay claims due to the lack of visual evidence and will sign off on a claim only to find that additional underlying problems didn’t manifest visually until months afterward. Please contact an expert who is thoroughly familiar with these types of issues and can help with your case.

 

 

Flooding can wreak havoc on natural stone and tile floors. Flood waters not only contain water which can harm and destroy marble, granite, limestone, terrazzo, and tile flooring, but they also contain debris and dirt as well as other harmful contaminates that can cause staining and other problems.  Many times, the damage that is done by the flooding will not show up until months later.

 

As a stone/tile forensic expert I deal with problems such as those resulting from flooding on a frequent basis. The good news is that not all of the problems that result necessarily mean the floor must be replaced. There are some tests that can be performed by forensic experts to see if it is possible to reverse the damage rather than having to resort to costly replacement.

 

Following are some of the most common problems that may occur.

 

Efflorescence

Efflorescence appears as a white powdery residue on the surface of the stone. It is a common condition on stone, terrazzo, and tile installations when the stone is exposed to a large quantity of water, such as flooding. This powder is a mineral salt from the setting bed. It can be removed by cleaning professionals, but many times will come back after the initial cleaning. The stone will continue to effloresce until it is completely dry. This drying process can take several days to many months. A major mistake that is often made—even by some professionals—is to apply a sealer to the stone or tile. The reason this is a major mistake is the sealer will block the escape of moisture which can cause further problems such as flaking and spalling of the stone.

 

The stone or tile should be evaluated for moisture by a professional stone and tile forensic expert to determine the extent of residual moisture.

 

Sub-florescence

Sub-florescence is what happens when the mineral salts migrate and do not make it all the way to the surface. In the efflorescence condition above, the salts are deposited on the surface of the stone. In sub-florescence, the salts crystallize just below the surface, causing stress within the pores of the stone. The result is a condition known as spalling, which appears as pits in the surface of the stone. Sub-florescence is quite common on green marbles and on almost all stone and tile surfaces where flooding has occurred. The stone or tile can be tested for salts by a qualified professional stone and tile expert.

 

Yellowing and Discoloration

Many light-colored stones contain naturally occurring deposits of iron.  Iron is a mineral found in stone and can occur randomly throughout the stone.  If iron is present, it will begin to oxidize when exposed to water or other oxidizers such as acids and household bleach.  Stone can remain for years without yellowing, then over time may slowly turn yellow and in severe causes may turn completely brown. This oxidation process is accelerated when the stone is saturated with water as from a flood. This process of oxidation is like the rusting of metal.  If you expose a brand-new nail to water and air it will turn brown and rust.  The same process is occurring with the iron in the stone. If water and / or air is eliminated, the iron will not oxidize.  This is the reason certain white marbles suddenly turn yellow.  The process is difficult to reverse and replacement of the stone may be necessary if not properly evaluated and the proper removal technique.

 

Warping

Several types of thin stone tiles are very susceptible to warping when exposed to flooding. Many of the green marbles and a few agglomerate marbles are notorious for this warping condition.  Many installers have had the surprise of finding that their tile installation has mysteriously become warped overnight. Why does this a happen and can it be prevented?

 

Warping is caused by water. Green marble set with any water-based material will have a tendency to warp.  The mechanism of why the tile warps is somewhat a mystery.  Some believe that the water fills the pores of the stone and when the water evaporates the orientation of the stone’s crystal changes and causes it to warp. Whatever the reason, one thing is for sure, green marble can warp when set with water-based materials or exposed to copious amounts of water.

 

Cure: Once a green marble tile warps it is difficult to repair. Attempts have been made to grind the tile flat, but this usually fails since additional water is introduced during the grinding process. The green simply warps again. In order to determine if the stone can be repaired a detailed investigation must be made. This many include removing a tile to determine the type of setting bed, etc.

 

Erosion

Erosion is a condition found when stone is exposed to constant amounts of water. This is especially true with marble that is used in water fountains.  While marble is a very decorative material, it is one of the worst materials to use in or around water.  Marble is composed of calcium carbonate. Calcium carbonate is a water-soluble mineral. Quite simply this means it will dissolve in water. (Want proof? Visit the Grand Canyon.)  Erosion can be recognized by a slow deterioration of the stone surface. With polished stone the polish will be worn off. In older installations, the stone may become very soft, brittle and in extreme conditions, it will powder.

If any architects or designers are reading this article, I urge you not to specify marble for water fountains.  If you do, plan on very high maintenance costs and plan on replacement in about five to ten years, if not sooner.

 

Hollow Sounds

I constantly get calls from insurance adjusters, contractors, attorneys, etc. about hollow sounds that occur after a floor has been exposed to flooding.  The fact is those hollow sounds that occur on a floor are NOT caused by flooding. The reason is simple: most setting materials are made from Portland cement. It is a well-known fact that Portland cement has hydraulic properties. In other words, it cures in the presences of water.  If your client is complaining about hollow sounds and is trying to blame it on a flood, keep this in mind. An inspection and evaluation of the floor is necessary to determine the extent of the hollow sounds which can cause deboning and other issues.

 

Mineral Crusts or Lime Putty

Mineral crusts or lime putty can be recognized by its white crust like formation on stone surfaces. These crusts are often found on outdoor stone stairs, water fountains, interior floors and other areas where stone is exposed to flooding. The crusts are a deposit of hard mineral salts consisting of calcium and magnesium. These minerals originate from the soil, setting bed or from the water itself. These salts are similar to efflorescence in that they are a mineral. They differ in that they form a hard crust that can be difficult to remove.

 

Conclusion

Having a stone or tile floor that has been subjected to flooding evaluated by an expert is highly recommended. It may make all the difference. For example, white marble can turn yellow months after the flood. Tiles can become cracked due to swollen subfloors that are not visible to the naked eye, etc etc.

 

www.stoneforensics.com

 

Frederick M. Hueston is an expert on stone and tile damage and has over 35 years of experience. He can be contacted at fhueston@gmail.com

 

 

 

Is My Countertop Quartzite or Marble?

 

Is My Countertop Quartzite or Marble?

By Frederick M. Hueston

In recent years, there have been complaints from consumers who purchase countertops from stone distributors who tell them the material is quartzite, which will not etch (a dullness of the surface) or scratch. Later, when their tops are etched and scratched, they learn the hard way that their tops are actually marble. This article explains the difference between quartzite and marble so that consumers can tell what countertop material they truly have.

About Marble

Marble is a metamorphic material that contains an abundance of the mineral calcium carbonate, which is soft and chemically reacts to acidic substances. This means marble is very susceptible to acid etch damage. Heat, pressure, and other geological forces destroy or modify the texture and structure of limestone or dolomite rock, resulting in a new form of rock known as marble. When the limestone or dolomite are very pure, the resulting marble is white. When the quartz is mixed with iron oxide or other minerals, the resulting quartzite may have streaks, lenses (transparent pieces), and varieties color.

About Quartzsite

Quartzsite is also a metamorphic rock but differs from marble in that it does not contain calcium carbonate. This means it is not susceptible to acid etch damage. Quartzite is formed when heat, pressure, and other geological forces destroy or modify the texture and structure of quartz sandstone. When the quartz sandstone is very pure, the resulting quartzite is white or gray. When the quartz is mixed with iron oxide or other minerals, the resulting quartzite may have streaks, lenses, and varieties color. 

Tests to Determine Stone Type: Marble or Quartzite?

Marble and quartzite can be very similar in appearance. Fortunately, there are a couple of simple tests one can perform to tell the difference between marble and quartzite: the scratch test and the acid test. If you attempt to perform either of these potentially destructive tests, you should obtain a sample or use a piece of scrap countertop material to perform the tests. If neither are available to you, test in an inconspicuous spot knowing that the test may cause damage.

The Scratch Test
In order to understand how the scratch test works, we need to provide a little more science. The hardness of minerals can be determined by what is called the Mohs scale of mineral hardness. This scale rates minerals from the softest mineral, being a 1, to the hardest mineral, being a 10. Calcium has a Mohs hardness of 3. Quartz has a hardness of 7. A standard kitchen knife has a hardness of about 6.

Use a knife to scratch the surface of a countertop. The outcome indicates the hardness of the mineral. If the knife leaves a scratch, the stone is likely marble. If there are no scratches, the stone is likely a much harder stone like quartzite or granite.

The Acid Test
Calcium reacts to acids, causing etch damage. The etch may or may not have texture, depending on the severity of etch damage. Common acids will not affect quartz. Vinegar or a lemon wedge can be used for the test. Place the lemon wedge or a drop or two of vinegar on the stone and allow several minutes dwell time. Wipe up the excess. If it leaves a dull spot, that a positive indication for the presences of calcium, which indicates the countertop is marble and not quartzite. 

Uh-Oh, It's Marble

If you discovered you have marble, not quartzite, by way of these tests or because you already have countertops installed that have etch marks or scratches, rest assured that you are not doomed to live with unsightly damage or replace your countertops. Professional stone restoration contractors can hone and polish your countertops, virtually erasing damage and leaving your tops with a beautiful, pristine finish. Your contractor can also make recommendations for care and protection appropriate for your countertop material.

It is unfortunate that marbles are being sold as quartzites. While they can look similar, they do not react the same. If you are in the market for new countertops, these tests can help you make an informed decision on your investment.

 

Why You Should Consider Staining Your Concrete Floor

 

Why You Should Consider Staining Your Concrete Floor

Frederick M Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

Acid staining can make a common concrete floor into look like expensive natural stone flooring. Not only is it a fraction of the price, but for people allergic to carpeting materials its a godsend. Another great application is in houses with radiant floor heating. Radiant heating is at its most efficient when insulating floor coverings like tile or carpet are minimized.

The process of staining a concrete floor, while not overly complex, can be tough to get the results you want from. Most folks are probably better off hiring a professional contractor. Its a risky project for the do-it-yourselfer.

If youre not familiar with it, concrete stain isnt a paint or finish coat. It involves a chemical reaction on cement materials. Typically a water-based solution of hydrochloric acid and inorganic salts, the stain reacts with minerals and lime in the concrete aggregate, and the result of the reaction is coloring. It works on new or old concrete, and is fairly durable if you maintain it with sealer or wax, since it wont stain or chip. It can also be applied to both interiors and exterior floors. Walkways, bathrooms, entrances, driveways, living rooms and patios are all fair game.

When its finished, stained concrete looks a little like marble, but more dappled and less uniform. The concrete will mostly be earthy brown tones, with hints of red and green. Its possible to make your own tint stain by mixing colors, or applying at dissimilar rates. When you stain a concrete floor, though, don’t expect the stain to be uniform or have an even tone. Plan your room decor and color scheme accordingly, because you’ll get dissimilar reactions from different areas of the concrete, and even a seasoned pro will be hard pressed to predict what the final result will be.

Surface prep for acid staining concrete depends on what condition your slab is in. Newly poured concrete only needs is be allowed time for curing- three weeks after pouring- then some rinsing and scrubbing. Older concrete is a different story. Thorough cleaning is required because any dirt, grease, paint, sealer or even curing agent will keep the stain from penetrating and reacting as it should. Do a little test area to make sure its ready.

Newer poured concrete will require less stain than older floors, but in general, a gallon of water added to one gallon of stain will cover around 400 square feet. Apply the stain with a non-metallic brush or broom, working in the cooler morning or evening hours, rather than in the heat of the day. Be careful to protect yourself from spillage, drips and fumes from the acid stain, and follow the manufacturers precautions.

After application, you need to cleanup by sweeping away any leftover stain and residue with a broom. When the floor is thoroughly dry, it is a good idea to apply a sealer agent and then wax it.

If you are in the market for natural stone flooring, a new look for your basement or patio, or just looking for new remodeling ideas, stained concrete is something you should look into.

 

5 steps to complete a successful ceramic tile installation for the DIY

 

5 steps to complete a successful ceramic tile installation for the DIY

Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

If laying ceramic tiles is totally new to you, “5 Steps to complete a successful ceramic tile installation” is a set of basic but important tips that you will help you avoid making costly mistakes on your next bathroom or ceramic tile installation.

” Plan which Tile
” Shop around if you want to save
” Prepare the surface for a long lasting job
” Lay the tiles
” Finishing touches

Plan which Tile

This step is often underestimated and sometimes even forgotten (can you believe it?). Planning your ceramic tile installation from A to Z is probably one of the most important steps for a smooth, easy going and problem free bathroom tile installation.

Some things to take in account are;

” Suitability of the tile
” Pattern /colour of the tile
” Size of the tile
” Size of the area to be tiled. (This is important data that will be vital to know how much tile, grout, etc, you have to buy)
” Adhesive, mortar or grout to suit your needs

Not all ceramic tile installations are the same, different tiling installations may require different mortar or grout. DO NOT feel shy about asking the suppliers for advice or help in calculating how much you need. They will gladly help you, as they are likely to make a sale.

Shop around if you want to save

This isn’t as difficult as the first step, however when the budget is tight it can be tricky to find the right tile for the ceramic tile installation you want. You are going to have to make some compromises and so don’t get carried away by the beauty of some of the ceramic tiles. Prices can vary a lot between different tiles, so some end up rather expensive for only a few square feet.

Always shop around, it has never been easier. Just sit in front of the computer and use the Internet. Use local directories to find the suppliers close to you and pay them a visit.

Before making your final decision always check the chosen tile under different lights as the results can be surprisingly different.

Prepare the surface for a long lasting job before laying the ceramic tiles
The surface to be tiled (floor, wall or any other) will often need to be prepared, this can include work like filling, levelling, smoothing, priming and sometimes water proofing.

The right preparation will be directly affect the lifespan of the ceramic tile installation. Unless you want to be tiling again soon, you want to get this right from the start.

This is probably the most important point to ensure a long lasting tiling job. Don’t rush it.

Laying the ceramic tiles safely

The technique of laying ceramic tiles is not especially difficult. It only takes a little bit of practice before anyone can easily master it. Clearing the room to be tiled before starting will help you to do the job safer and easier. Don’t forget to wear your safety goggles when cutting or chipping tiles.

Laying ceramic tiles can also be a bit messy, if you don’t want dust all over the house we suggest sealing the room you want to tile whenever possible. A large piece of plastic tacked to the door frame will do the job quite well.

Try not to allow any adhesive to get on your skin and never forget to read the manufacturers directions before even opening the tin. If some ends up on you, just clean it with water as soon as possible. Even though tile adhesives aren’t usually abrasive, if you leave it for some time it may cause an allergic reaction.

Use a spirit level to help you with the depth & level of the tiles and spacers to maintain an even distance between them.

The finishing touches

Once the tile adhesive or mortar has cured (dried) and the tiles are firm and even, you can start with the finishing touches.

You’ll have to fill the spaces between tiles with grout making sure you don’t leave any gaps as these cause damp problems, in a shower for example.

The technique is very simple, use a rubber faced trowel to spread the grout and a cotton cloth to clean the excess grout from the tiles afterwards.

There are many different types of grouts; you’ll have to choose the right one depending on the surface and chosen tile.

Now that you have your ceramic tiles laid down, you only need to take care of them, usually manufacturers provide information on taking care of their tiles and only minimal effort is required. Most household cleaning products will do the job well, if some particular stain is stubborn, there are many commercial stain removers, just make sure you use the right product for the right tile.

You are now closer to discovering how satisfying it can be handling a tile installation yourself; just follow these 5 steps to get the best result.

 

Flooring Tips You Must Know

 Flooring Tips You Must Know

Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

Buying a new floor can be a frustrating and confusing process. Here’s a list of things to keep in mind before heading out to purchase your new floor.

1. Take note of the room layout.

– Draw an outline of the room or rooms. Indicate where the entrances are placed.

– Measure the room carefully and accurately with a measuring tape. Write down the width and length of a room. Remember to include closets and other areas that need the new flooring. Smaller print patterns can make the room seem a lot bigger.

– Take into account adjoining rooms and the flooring on those rooms.

– Make a note in which direction the room is facing and if there is a sliding door. Determine how much natural light enters the room. You might want to consider a laminated floor, ceramic tile or porcelain tile.

– Bring along swatches of fabrics from your furniture, curtains and wallpaper. These will help you decide on the color and style of your flooring.

2. Answer these questions to help you out in selecting the right floor for your room:

– How much foot traffic does the room get in any given day? The number of people passing or using the room would indicate the level of wear and tear the room would take. This would help you in deciding the type of flooring to get. A room with a high volume of traffic needs more durable flooring.

– What is the main function of the room? A room used mainly for leisurely activities will have less wear and tear. Delicate flooring materials can be chosen in this case.

– How many pets do you have? Pets tend to abuse the surroundings they are in, floorings maybe damage from scratching.

– How many kids do you have in the house? All the roughhousing and playing that the kids do tend to abuse the flooring. The more kids you have in the house, the more abuse your flooring will get.

– What color do you want? Remember that lighter colors make rooms seem bigger.

– How long do you want the flooring to last? We would of course like the flooring to last forever but wear and tear damages the flooring.

Eventually, it will need to be replaced or you may want to simply change the look of the room after a certain period of time.

3. How much is the flooring going to cost?

– Are the subfloor preparation part of the quoted price?

– Is the quoted price inclusive of the installation or is that a separate fee? This is a budgeting concern, you would want to know the actual amount you’re going to spend.

– Is the removal of pre-existing flooring included in the quoted price.

– Is the quoted price inclusive of the moving of all appliances and furniture in the room.

– Are all the necessary materials included in the quoted price? You wouldn’t want to find out during the installation that some materials are not included and that you still need to purchase more materials. That could be extremely annoying and frustrating.

4. Questions to ask the installers and the store:

– Are the installers independent, or are they store employees?

– Whose insurance will pay for installation errors?

– Are all of the materials recommended by the manufacturer so warranty will not be voided?

– Discuss with the salesperson the warranty information of the manufacturer. Keep a copy of the warranty.

– Discuss the maintenance procedure and keep a copy of the manual or brochure.

– Have everything documented including the diagram of the installation. Also, the amount of flooring needed in the room

– Ask who will be responsible for the removal of fixed features in the room, e.g. toilet.

– Always check the website of the store, if any, to give you an idea of the store. Take note of the affiliations to groups or other organizations.

It would be best to email the store in advance to have some questions answered before going there. It saves a lot of time.

– Have all the product information documented. The document should include the name of the manufacturer, product name, color, style and the installation procedure.