Tuesday, March 10, 2020

Stone Impregnating Sealers are not Bullet Proof


Stone Impregnating Sealers are not Bullet Proof
By Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

I receive several calls a week with questions on the use of impregnating type sealers for use on outdoor stone as well as interior wet areas such as showers, water fountains etc. The question is simple: Should I seal my stone in these conditions. The following article will provide a reason why stone in wet areas should not be sealed.

Before we discuss the reason why we shouldn’t stone in these conditions a few definitions are necessary
Impregnators or penetrating sealers: Impregnators are designed to penetrate below the surface of the stone and deposit solid particles in the pores of the stone or to coat the individual minerals below the surface of the stone.  Water, oil and dirt are restricted from entering the stone.  Impregnators can be solvent, or water based. Most impregnators are vapor permeable.
Vapor Permeable:  breathability, vapor permeability describes a stones ability to allow water vapor to pass through it.

The case for not sealing stone in wet environments
When stone is exposed to unregulated humidity and temperature fluctuations, like it would in an outdoor environment or in a shower the air contains vapor in what we know as humidity. Temperature along with humidity can result in condensation as well.
Most of the impregnators on the market today our breathable. This simple means that the stone will be protected from water entering the pores of the stone in liquid form but will allow water vapor to pass.
In an wet environments vapor can be present for several reason, rain, high humidity, temperature fluctuations, steam etc. Since these impregnators are breathable this vapor can easily penetrate into the stone.  One would think that this is a  positive. The fact is that once the vapor enters the stone it can condense and become a liquid. Since impregnators protect against water in its liquid phase it becomes trapped within the stones pores and will not escape until it evaporates or in other words turns into a vapor. Once this water becomes trapped it can result in all kinds of problems. Stones with iron content can begin to oxidize, natural salts with in the stone can become dissolved and cause pitting and spalling. Aesthetically the stone will appear darker since it is constantly wet.
This problem is becoming more of an issue with the increase of stone being used in showers and exterior environments. There are currently several people doing experiments demonstrate that sealer in wet environments can cause these issues.  I strongly believe that care should be taken when sealing stone in these wet environments.

Stain Removal Procedure for Stone Surfaces


Stain Removal Procedure for Stone Surfaces
By Frederick M. Hueston , www.stoneforensics.com

If you find that there are some stains on your stone flooring the following stain removal information should help you remove them. A video on this procedure can also be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh0_tUphEco

Poulticing Materials:
I have found that most stains can be classified into one of the following categories:

Oil-Based Stains: Grease, tar, cooking oil and food stains.
Organic Stains: Coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, cosmetics, etc.
Metal Stains: Iron (rust), copper, bronze, etc.
Biological Stains: Algae, mildew, lichens, etc.
Ink Stains: Magic marker, pen, ink, etc.
There are, of course, other materials that will cause staining. These five categories are the most common.
Applying the Poultice
Once the stain is identified, the following steps can be followed:
1. Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water isolating the stain and accelerating the removal by the chemical.

2. Prepare the poultice. If a powder is to be used, pre mix the powder and the chemical of choice into a thick paste, the consistency of peanut butter. In other words, wet it enough so that it does not run. If a paper poultice is to be used, soak the paper in the chemical. Lift the paper out of the chemical until it stops dripping.

3, Apply the poultice to the stain being careful not to spill any on the non stained areas. Apply approximately 1/4-inch thick over-lapping the stain area by about one inch.

4. Cover the poultice with plastic (food wrap works great). Tape the plastic down to seal the edges. It also helps to poke several small holes in the plastic so that the powder will dry out. Failure to do this may result in the poultice staying wet.

5. Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed. Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.

6. Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain is not removed, apply the poultice again. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.

Some chemicals may etch marble and limestone surfaces. If this occurs, then apply polishing powder and buff with a piece of burlap to restore the shine.

Poulticing Powders:
Clays (Attapulgite, Kaolin, Fullers earth)  DO NOT USE OF RUST STAINS
Talc
Chalk (whiting)
Sepiolite (hydrous magnesium silicate)
Diatomaceous Earth
Methyl Cellulose
Clays and diatomaceous earth are usually the best. Do not use whiting or iron-type clays, such as Fullers Earth, with acidic chemicals. They will react with the material, canceling the effect of the poultice.
Many stains are so deeply imbedded that the poultice alone will not be completely effective. Some type of chemical solution will need to be added to the poultice. When the poultice and chemical are applied, the chemical is absorbed into the stone. The chemical reacts with the stain and is re-absorbed into the powder/material.
Stain Removing Chemicals
How do you choose the proper chemical for a given stain?
First, you need to identify the stain. This is the most important step in stain removal. If you know what caused the stain, you can easily look at a stain removal chart for the proper chemical to apply. If the stain is unknown, then you need to play detective. Try what caused the stain. If the stain is near a plant container, it might be that the plant was over watered and the soil has leached iron onto the stone. The color of the stain may help to identify the cause. Brownish color stains may be iron (rust) stains. The shape or the pattern of the stain may be helpful. Small droplet size spots leading from the coffeepot to someone's desk are a sure giveaway. Do some investigating and use your powers of observation. This will almost always lead to the identification of the cause of the stain.
If, after thorough investigation, you still have no idea what the stain is, then you will need to perform a patch test. A patch test simply means applying several chemical poultices to determine which will remove the stain.
There are also pre-prepared poultice mixes that have the chemicals already added. All you have to do is add water.
One way to reduce the amount of staining on any stone surface is to make sure it is sealed with a good penetrating sealer or impregnator.
Stain Removal Guide

Iron (rust) - Poultice with Iron Out + Powder + Water.  (Iron Out is available at hardware stores). Both mixtures may etch polished marble, so re polishing will be necessary.
Ink - Poultice with Mineral Spirits or Methylene Chloride +Powder.
Oil - Poultice with Ammonia+ Powder Methylene Chloride can also be used on tough oil stains.
Coffee, Tea & Food - Poultice with 20 percent Hydrogen Peroxide + Powder.
Copper - Poultice with Ammonium Chloride + Powder
Paint (water-based) - poultice with a commercial paint remover + Powder
Paint (oil) Poultice with Mineral Spirits + Powder. Deep stains may require Methylene Chloride.
Please use extra caution when handling all chemicals listed above. Thoroughly read Material Safety Data Sheets for each chemical before use.

Stone impregnating sealers in wet environments? Bad idea.


Stone impregnating sealers in wet environments? Bad idea.
By Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

I receive several calls a week with questions regarding impregnating-type sealers for use on outdoor stone, as well as interior wet areas, such as showers, water fountains, etc. The question is simple: Should I seal my stone in these conditions? The following article explains why stone in wet areas should not be sealed.
About Penetrating Sealers
Penetrating sealers, or impregnators are designed to penetrate below the surface of the stone and deposit solid particles into the pores of the stone and coat the individual minerals below the surface of the stone. With the pores filled, water, oil, and dirt are restricted from entering the stone. Impregnators can be solvent or water based, and most impregnators are vapor permeable or breathable, which means water vapor is able to pass through the sealed stone.
Why not seal stone in wet environments?
Although most impregnators on the market today our breathable, this does not mean they are suitable for wet environments. Stone sealed with a penetrating sealer is protected from water entering the pores of the stone in liquid form, but these sealers will still allow water vapor in the form of humidity, steam, and other forms to pass into the stone. Moisture absorption inevitably occurs when stone is exposed to unregulated humidity, temperature fluctuations, and the like.

Once vapor enters stone, it can condense and become a liquid. Since impregnators form a protective barrier against water in its liquid phase, this condensation-turned-liquid becomes trapped within the stone's pores. It will not escape unless it returns to its vapor form and evaporates.

Trapped liquid can result in all kinds of stone problems. Stones with iron content can oxidize, which means the iron can rust and discolor the stone. Natural salts within the stone can dissolve and cause small holes called pitting or flaking of the stone's outer layer, called spalling. Aesthetically, the constantly saturated stone will appear darker than its natural brightness. 
Research Continues, But In The Meantime...
With the surge of stone installations in showers and exterior environments in recent years, problems associated with stone sealed with impregnators are becoming increasingly prevalent. Researchers are continuing to experiment and making a strong case that sealing stone in wet environments is inadvisable. I strongly believe that careful consideration should be taken before sealing stone in wet environments.

RE-CRYSTALLIZATION-REVISTIED


RE-CRYSTALLIZATION-REVISTIED

                                By Frederick M. Hueston, StoneForensics.com




The following is a reprint of an article I wrote back in 1990.  I have edited some of the text to bring it up to date.  My opinion on this process is still the same as it was in 1990.  With that said there are some uses for this process, however care must be exercised in its use.  Most of the damage I have seen since 1990 by this process results from the overuse of the product as well as the lack of trained personnel who apply it.  The following reprint should give you some useful information on this process and the care that must be used when using it. In addition keep in mind that the chemicals contained in this process are not sustainable(Green) and can be extremely harmful to the user as well as occupants of the building it is used in.


     To answer the problems experienced by customers who had dull and scratched marble.  I tried to find the best and most practical solution to the restoration of their marble floors, walls, etc.
     Since this is a relatively small industry, there weren’t too many good sources.  I did find some self-proclaimed “experts” who introduced me to the idea of “re-crystallization” as a safe and easy method of restoring and polishing marble and stone.  They touted it as a time proven process which had its roots in the marble industry in Europe.  It was alleged to be safe, easy to apply and was both slip resistant and permanent.  In short, it was the perfect solution for most marble restoration and maintenance problems.
     Having been raised in the “old” school, I instinctively doubt anything that appears “too good to be true”.  Experience has taught me that most of those “too good to be true statements” usually turn out to be exactly that!
     My business reputation is at stake whenever I recommend or use a product or procedure.  I don’t take that responsibility lightly.  So, I endeavored to get answers to some specific questions about this “re-crystallization” process (from the systems’ promoters).
    
Question #1.  Does the “re-crystallization” process contain waxes?
Crystallization Answer:  No.

Question #2.  Does the process allow the stone to breath (transpire)?
Crystallization Answer:  Vague generalizations and evasive replicas.

Question #3.  How does “re-crystallization” react with stone?
Crystallization Answer:  Evasive generalizations.

     These evasive non-answers surprised me.  Perhaps there was something that these crystallization “experts” did not know---or did not want me to know.
     Though I am in stone consultation business, my formal education is in Chemistry.  I had a natural curiosity about this wondrous process called “re-crystallization”.  After all, if it worked, it would be great for my business.  I determined to do some research on my own.  Following is a summary of my research.

                                                                         TERMS


     The term “crystallization” is defined as the process by which a substance takes the form of a crystal structure.  Most minerals are crystal shaped.  The term “re-crystallization” implies that a substance has been crystallization a second time.  In other words, changed from one crystal shape to another.
     In geology, re-crystallization takes place---under great pressure at high temperatures--- deep in the earth and over thousands of years.  My research showed that the natural re-crystallization of minerals such as those found in stone is unlikely to be obtained with the so-called packaged chemical “re-crystallization method” being marketed by a number of companies.  We can therefore assume that the term “re-crystallization” is used only as a marketing term.
     For the purpose of this article, we will use this term---re-crystallization---only as a description of the chemical process that follows.

                                                              METHODOLOGY


     I obtained Material Safety Data Sheets (required by OSHA for all chemical products) from a good sample of “re-crystallization” product distributors.
     From them, I learned that all the “re-crystallization products contained a fluorosilicate compound.  All contained an acid of one type or another and almost all contained varying percentages of waxes and acrylics.
     To understand how these ingredients react with marble, one needs to understand the makeup(natural composition) of marble, itself.  The main constituent of marble is a compound called Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3).  Calcium Carbonate, along with other accessory minerals, makes up what we know as marble.
     When an acid is dropped on marble it will burn and etch the surface leaving a pitted, dull spot.  The reaction (Formula 1) illustrates what happens when an acid and marble come in contact with one another.  The bond between the calcium and the carbonate is broken, producing water and carbon dioxide gas and the calcium carbonate is destroyed.  In other words, acid destroys marble.  All re-crystallization fluids contain acids.
     If you have any doubts, place a drop of re-crystallization fluid on a piece of marble, wait just 30 seconds and wipe it off.  You will find that it has etched.

                                                             FORMULA  1


CaCo3 + HCL ---------------à Ca+  Co3 + H2O




      The main ingredient used in re-crystallization fluid is a group of compounds called flurosilicons.   Three types of fluorosilicates  can be found in re-crystallization fluids:  (1) Aluminum fluorosilicate  (2) Magnesium fluorosilicate and (3) Zinc Fluorosilicate.
     First used in 1883, flurosilicate compounds were used in an attempt to preserve marble statues that were crumbling.  The effects of these compounds on stone were studied by several researchers and were found to have detrimental  effects  on the stone.
     It was found that flourosilicates deposit an enamel on the surface of the stone which completely blocks its pores.  The stone suffocates, begins to break apart and rot.  The results of these studies can be found in the book Stone Decay and Conservation written by Glovanni G Amoroso and Vasco Passins---ELSEVIER, Amsterdam, Lausanne, Oxford, New York 1983.
     The re-crystallization process uses an acid that attacks the calcium carbonate in the stone (Reaction 1).  This reaction destroys the calcium carbonate and releases the calcium ion.  The fluorosilicate compound then attaches itself to the calcium ion forming a new compound (Reaction 2 & 3).  This new compound, calcium fluorosilicate  forms an imperious film on the surface of the stone---totally blocking its pores.

                                                                  REACTION 1


Ca CO3 + ----------------> Ca++AC  +H2O + CO2




                                                                         REACTION 2
MgSiF6. H2O + Ca++ ------------------>CaSiF6





                                                                   REACTION 3

                                    ZnSiF6.H2O + Ca++ -------------------->CaSiF6






     Based on the preceding facts.  I have reached the following conclusions:

FACT:  Marble and stone must breathe (transpire).  If the pores are blocked, moisture from the slab (condensation, etc.) will be trapped and the stone will begin to break down.

FACT:  The re-crystallization process places an impermeable coating of fluorosilicates on  the stone, completely blocking its pores.

FACT:  Acid will destroy marble and stone.

FACT:  All crystallization fluids contain acids.

     The above facts are clear and incontrovertible evidence.  What is even more startling are the dozens of marble floors and walls I have seen that have been destroyed  by this process.
     Along with other responsible stone restoration firms in the industry.  I urge anyone---even thinking about allowing a “crystallization” process to be used---to test the proposed products on a marble sample and judge the results for yourself.  You will find the rapid deterioration of the marble frightening.
     For the names of responsible stone restoration firms, you are invited to write Building Stone Institute, Marble Care and Maintenance Companies, 420 Lexington Ave.  New York, New York  10170.

AN OPEN LETTER TO THE PEOPLE IN THE TRADE:

     The extensive marketing of restoration methods using “re-crystallization “ is a very serious matter for everyone in the industry.  The alarming increase in the number of complaints regarding permanently damaged marble and other stone floors and walls is hardly conducive to increased sales and use of our fine products.  This damage could have--- and should have---been avoided, I urge you to advise all your customers of the potential damage from any of these “re-crystallization” methods being marketed.       Now that we know exactly what this so-called “re-crystallization” process is, we can answer the frequently asked question---Can a floor or wall that has been “re-crystallized” be saved?


Here are some guidelines:

     First, determine that crystallization has actually been used.  For a start, ask the customer.  Some will tell you, others will flatly deny it, and still others simply won’t know.
     If the shine on the marble or stone looks wavy (acrylic looking) then you can be fairly sure there is some type of  coating on it.  It is relatively easy to determine the type of coating.  To do this two chemicals are needed: (1) a commercial wax stripper and (2) methyl chloride (wood furniture stripper).
     Place a small amount of each chemical on the stone.  If the commercial wax stripper removes the film then you are dealing with an acrylic type finish.  Simply remove the finish with the stripper before starting the normal restoration or polishing process.
     If the commercial stripper does not remove the coating but the methyl chloride does, then you have a urethane based coating.  Remove it with methyl chloride or grind it off.
          If neither one of these strippers removes the coating, the chances are it has been re-crystallized.
     Another reliable clue is the presence of swirls on the marble (or other stone).  These are caused by the use of steel wool during the re-crystallization machining process.
     Make sure that before you attempt any polishing or grinding that you have determined the type of coating on the marble (stone).  Be aware that there may be more than one coating---possibly an acrylic coating placed on top of a re-crystallization” coating,  test several areas, to be sure.
     If it is discovered that the marble (stone) has been re-crystallized---can it be saved?
     This will depend on the severity of damage.  For example. Travertine and Crema Marfil will exhibit damage almost immediately.  Other stones, such as granite, will take longer.  Still others will not show any apparent damage until the re-crystallized layer begins to wear off.  It pays to become familiar with the various types of marbles and other stones.
     There are a few general rules to determine the extent of damage.
     These higher the CaCO3, the more destructive the re-crystallization will have been.
     The greater the number of applications of re-crystallization---over a period of time---the greater the chance of irreversible damage.
     The veining in some marble will be adversely affected first.  If these veined areas crumble easily, when probed with  a blunt instrument,  the stone may be damaged beyond repair.  If the amount of veining is not too extensive, it may be saved by filling with a poly resin such as Akemi.
     Perform several Patch Tests.  Grind the stone and bring it up to a polish.  If the stone polishes, the chance are it can be saved.  CAUTION:  make absolutely sure you have removed the re-crystallized layer entirely.  We recommend  starting with a 60 grit for most stones.
     A FINAL WARNING:  some of the companies have begun to eliminate the term “re-crystallization” and are substituting  “marble polishing” or “Vitrification”.  Be cautious.  Even if it carries the name of a nationally known chemical firm, check their claims.  Ask to see the Material Safety Data Sheets.  If the process contains fluorosilicates, do not use it.  The hard sell “marketing”  (selling franchises) of these products is bringing us very close to an epidemic of severely damaged marble (stone) floors.  A few clients (who simply did not know better), having just installed brand new marble floors, have had terrible damage done to them.     We all know that there is no such thing as a totally “maintenance free” floor.  Marble, granite, slate---whatever---must be maintained.  The type of maintenance varies with use.  Obviously, an entrance foyer of a residence requires a very different maintenance schedule than the lobby of a downtown high-rise office building or a major hotel.
     Maintenance can be done quite simply, using recommended products and procedures.  However, after extensive wear and tear---over a long period of time--- a client may wish to have professional restoration work done.  This can best be achieved by employing a responsible firm using traditional methods.  These firms will look at an installation and provide a written estimate not only of the costs involved (usually figured on a square foot basis) gut also the materials to be used.  They should have their own equipment---and trained crews--- who have quality experience with the marble and other stone floors.


OXIDATION OF ELEMENTAL IRON WITHIN STONE SURFACES(YELLOWING OF STONE SURFACES)


OXIDATION OF ELEMENTAL IRON WITHIN STONE
SURFACES(YELLOWING OF STONE SURFACES)
Frederick M. Hueston 

Sitting in my office one morning I received a call from a very upset homebuilder. He told me he was building a
two million-dollar home on the west coast of Florida. They installed nearly 3500 square feet of a white statuary
marble tile. Over the weekend one of the water pipes broke in a bathroom and completely flooded the home.
They managed to vacuum all the water and started to access the damages. Beside warped wood, soaked drywall
and an irate homeowner the marble tile seemed fine except for some minor water spotting. After several weeks
the replacement of warped wood and drywall began and then he noticed the white marble tile turning yellow. At
first he thought it might be some type of residue so they tried cleaning the marble with some bleach and waterthe
yellowing was still there. The homeowner was getting more and more irate and was threatening a lawsuit.
He asked if I could get down there right away and take a look at the marble and suggest what to do.
The above story is not uncommon and is a frequent occurrence on white marble tiles exposed to flooding. Can
the yellowing be removed or does it need to be replaced? What causes the yellowing and will it get worse. The
following is an explanation of yellowing in white marble and some techniques that may help.
Why Does White Marble Turn Yellow?
The problem of yellowed white marble is not uncommon. All over the United States I have encountered yellow
to brown marble. Although flooding is a common cause there are several other reasons this color change will
occur.
1. Improper Maintenance- As marble wears the highly polished surface begins to disappear. The wearing of
this polish causes the surface to become rough and is a magnet for dirt. If improper cleaners are used, this dirt
begins to accumulate in the pores of the stone and will turn yellow. It is surprising how often I have seen this
condition on marble. Upon investigation in these cases I have found dirty mops being used. Mops used to
clean the restrooms and/or kitchens were also used to clean the marble floors. Floors are mopped with strong
cleaners or wax cleaner combinations or with no cleaners at all.
Cure: If you suspect yellowing due to improper maintenance the marble tile will have to be cleaned with an
alkaline marble cleaner. I would suggest a heavy duty stone cleaner. Be sure the stone cleaner you buy is
alkaline and not an acid since acid cleaners will dull the polish. Apply the cleaner to the marble and scrub with
a soft brush. Be sure to rinse the floor throughly. It may be necessary to repeat this procedure several times to
remove all the imbedded dirt. If after cleaning the marble is dull I would suggest re-polishing and an
application of a good quality penetrating sealer(impregnator). If after several cleaning’s the yellowing is not
removed than proceed to the next cause.

2. Wax Build-up or Coatings- Many marble floors are coated with waxes, acrylics, urethane and other coatings.
Many of these coatings are not specifically designed for use on marble floors. Some of these coatings are of
poor quality and will begin to yellow. It is not uncommon for coating to be applied in multiple coats. As the
coating builds up it becomes soft and dirt is easily embedded in the soft layer. These coatings require frequent
stripping which is often neglected.
Another process used for polishing marble floors is a process known as recrystallazation. If this process is
applied to a white marble floor that contains moisture it will turn the marble yellow. If this process is to be
used, it is important that the marble be dry.
CURE: To remove yellowing due to a wax or coating buildup the marble will need to stripped with a
commercial wax stripper. I would strongly suggest using a stripper manufactured by the same company as the
floor wax or coating. This will help avoid incompatibility problems. Follow the directions on the stripper’s
label and be sure to rinse the floor throughly. These strippers often require the use of abrasive pads which can
scratch and damage the marble surface. Before undertaking the entire project perform a small test to determine
results.
If the marble tile has been recrystallized, it will be necessary to remove the recrystallized layer. This layer can
often be removed by polishing the tile with a powder marble polish containing oxalic acid. Apply the powder to
the tile, added water and work into a slurry with a hog hair pad and a standard buffing machine. Continue to
work until yellowing has disappeared. If this technique fails then the tile will have to be re-honed. It is strongly
suggested that the polishing and honing procedure be performed by trained individuals. If these techniques fail
to remove the yellowing then proceed to the next cause.
3. Iron Staining- Many white marble tiles contain naturally occurring deposits of iron. Iron is a mineral found
in stone and can occur randomly throughout the stone. If iron is present in the marble tile, it will begin to
oxidize when exposed to water or other oxidizers such as acids and household bleach. White marble tiles can
remain on a floor for years without yellowing then over time may slowly turn yellow and in severe causes may
turn completely brown. This oxidation process is accelerated when the tile is saturated as in the flood in the
above example. This process of oxidation is similar to the rusting of metal. If you expose a brand new nail to
water and air it will turn brown and rust. The same process is occurring with the iron in the marble. If water
and/ or air is eliminated the iron will not oxidize. This is the reason certain white marble suddenly turn yellow.
The process is difficult to reverse and replacement of the tile may be necessary. The following stain removal
technique has proved successful in several cases. Before testing this procedure it is important to first determine
if iron is the cause.
Testing for Iron:
1. Before assuming the marble is yellowed due to iron be sure to attempt cleaning and stripping as outlined in
#1 & 2 cause above. If these procedures fail then testing for iron will be necessary.
2. If a flood has occurred or excessive water was used first check the water for iron. There are several
inexpensive test kits available that can be used to check the iron content in water. Check with your local
plumbing supply store or store carrying water softening supplies. If any amount of iron is detected then it is
possible iron has entered the stone through the water supply. To eliminate the iron there are chelating chemicals
that can be added to the water to prevent the iron from staining. This is very important if the tile is cleaned withthis water.
3. If the water contains no iron and even if it does the tile should be checked for iron content. Remove one tile
and contact a testing lab and have them analyzed the tile for total iron. If there are spare tiles that have never
been installed also have them tested for total iron. If iron is present naturally in this stone, it will probably be
detected in the spare tile. If the results return with iron present then the following procedure should be tested.
4. Check the tile for moisture. A moisture meter is a useful instrument that can be employed to check the tile
for moisture. If the tile contains water, it is very possible that iron is beginning to oxidize.
Removing Iron Staining:
1. Prepare a solution of water and the following chemical: Sodium Hydro sulfite and Sodium Metabisulfite.
These chemicals are available in a product called Iron-Out(TM) from your plumbing supply or home center.
Mix a solution in water and apply to the effected tile. Allow solution to soak into tile and keep wet for several
hours. Do not allow solution to dry. After several hours pick up excess solution with a wet vacuum and rinse
throughly with water and a chelating agent such as EDTA. Be prepared to repolish the marble since these
chemicals can cause etching.
2. If the above procedure fails than prepare a poultice with diatomaceous earth and the Iron Out(TM). Mix the
poultice into a thick paste and apply to a small area. Cover the poultice with plastic and allow it to sit covered
for 24 hours. After 24 hours remove the poultice paste and rinse the area with water and a chelating agent. If
the stain is removed, the entire floor can be treated. If the stain still remains then replacement is the only
solution.
3. There are also some new chemicals that are available which contain Ammonium Thioglycolate which look
promising for removing iron oxidation. Check with several stone maintenance supply companies.
Before the above procedure can be performed, it is important that the effected tiles be dry. If water or moisture
are still present, oxidation of iron may continue
The yellowing of white marble is a common problem. New installations should be sealed with a good quality
penetrating sealer(impregnator) Which will help prevent oxidation of the iron by eliminating moisture.
The above procedure has proven successful in some cases of iron staining however if the outlined test does not
produce the desired results I would recommend replacement of the effected tiles.

Written by:
Frederick M. Hueston
Stone Forensics
www.stoneforensics.com

Article have Moved to the a new site

All of my article as well as many new ones have moved to my website, here is the link https://stoneforensics.com/articles/