The Care and Feeding of Slate Flooring( Wiping the Slate
Clean)
By Frederick M. Hueston, Technical Editor
Slate flooring is become increasing
popular in the US today. Years ago slate was basically gray and pale and there
weren’t many varieties to choose from. Today there are literally hundreds of
slate colours. In India alone there are several hundreds running every
imaginable color and well as texture.
The problem with slate for flooring is that it differs somewhat from the
typical highly polished marble, limestone and granite. This article will
explore the proper care and feeding of slate flooring. Sections of this article
can also be used to give your customers so they know the proper care of their
new slate flooring.
WHAT IS SLATE
Slate is a stone, which has been metamorphosed from
shale—that is, it consists of clay-like materials that have undergone change
under heat and pressure. In other words,
slate can be recognized by its sheet-like structure. The material is usually thin and if broken in
half, will flake off into sheets. Slate
is seldom highly reflective unless a coating is placed on it, and its surface
is usually uneven unless machine- sanded.
Although slate
can be purchased in 12" x 12" tiles, the most popular size is random
patterns of varying shapes.
For those of you who would like to know more.
Slate is made up of minerals of quartz and illite. You will also find minor
amounts of mica, calcite and other mineral.
Red colored slates contains hematite, which gives it is red color.
Greens contain chlorite and blacks and grays contain carbon and or
graphite. The reddish tans are the
result of iron oxides.
BASIC SLATE
FLOOR CLEANING
OK, lets get down to what this article
is all about—the actual care and maintenance of your slate flooring. It is not
a complicated subject. In fact, most of
the mistakes that are made, and the main reason slate flooring gets dirty or
ruined can be traced to simple neglect.
Let’s suppose you’ve just purchased a
brand-new car—and you never wash it. Soon enough the paint will fade, the body
will rust, and the car will cost you a small fortune to restore. On the other hand, if you make the effort to
wash it on a regular basis and throw a coat of wax on it every now and then, it
will look as good as new for years. This
is exactly what you need to do for your slate flooring. Keep it clean and protected, and it will last
till the kids move out—and may even be around when they move back in. The
following maintenance tips will tell you what you need to know to make this
possible.
DAILY CLEANING
To keep your slate flooring in tip-top
condition, a few simple maintenance procedures are necessary. For best results, they should be followed
very closely.
DUST-MOPPING
Of all the procedures used to maintain
slate flooring, dust mopping is probably the most important. Dust, dirt and grit are what cause most
surfaces to scratch & mar; if we could somehow eliminate them, this would
cease to be a problem. Several studies
have indicated that floors, which are dust-mopped often, stay cleaner and
shinier longer.
Do dust mop your floor
daily. If traffic is heavy, or the floor
is located in a commercial building, do it several times a day. Remember do not
use oil-treated dust mops on slate flooring.
When dust mopping, be sure to run the
dust mop in one direction only. Do not move it back and forth. Think of it as pushing the dirt in only one
direction. When you have accumulated
enough dirt and debris, pick it up with a dustpan and brush and take the dust
mop outside to shake any remaining dust.
When storing the dust mop, be sure to keep its head off the ground.
Hardware store sell various hangers, which are excellent for storing mops and brooms.
Designate only one dust mop for each
type of surface. For example, you should
use one dust mop for your slate flooring and a separate one for other tile or
wood floors. Do not get the dust mop
wet; if the floor is wet, be sure to dry it before dust mopping.
Purchase a good-quality machine-washable
mop and keep it clean. Wash it in cold water with laundry detergent and
machine-dry.
WELCOME MATS,
RUGS, AND WALK-OFF MATS
Another important tool necessary for
keeping dirt and debris off your slate floors is some type of mat, rug or what
is commonly called a walk-off mat. A
good-quality mat will capture dirt before someone walks on the floor. If it is placed outside your door, it is only
human nature and common courtesy for people to wipe their feet before entering
the house. Studies have shown that it
takes approximately seven steps to remove most loose dirt from one’s
shoes. For this reason, I would
recommend placing mats both inside and outside.
MAT AND RUG
TYPES
There are hundreds of mats and rugs on
the market today. Be sure to purchase
one of good quality. Be careful about using rubber- or jute-backed mats or rugs
on slate flooring; either kind of backing can bleed into the slate, causing a
stain that may be difficult or impossible to remove. A mat should be at least as wide as the
doorway it serves.
Clean your mats often, daily if
possible. Take them up and clean under them when you dust mop. Be sure the floor is dry before returning
them to the floor. Never place a mat down on a wet surface or put a wet
mat on any surface.
DAMP OR WET
MOPPING
All slate flooring needs to be
cleaned. How often you will need to damp or wet mop will depend on the amount of traffic and the finish (honed,
coated, textured). The following frequencies
are recommended:
Residential: Once a week
Light commercial: Twice a week
Heavy commercial: Daily
These are only recommendations; you
will need to adjust the frequencies to suit your own conditions. For example, during a heavy rainstorm, dirt
is tracked onto the floor and should be mopped up as quickly as possible.
REMOVING OLD
WAX FROM SLATE FLOORING
Suppose your slate floor has been covered with a wax or some other
type of coating. How do you remove this coating, and what chemicals should be
used? The procedure used to strip a
slate floor is relatively simple, and is outlined below. But before you run out
and buy a chemical floor stripper, it is important, as always, to find out what is on the floor.
WHAT'S ON MY
FLOOR?
Today’s technology has delivered hundreds of different types of floor
coatings—natural and synthetic waxes, acrylics, thermoplastics, polyurethane’s,
epoxies, etc. To choose the proper
chemical for removing them, we must know what type of coating we are dealing with.
I suggest the following procedure:
1.
If you already know what coating is on the floor, contact the product’s
manufacturer for removal instructions.
2.
If you have no idea what is on the floor, perform the following test.
Mix one cup of household ammonia in one gallon of warm water; pour a small
amount of this mixture on the floor and agitate with a soft scrub brush. Pick
up the solution with a wet vacuum or a dry rag.
Examine the area; if you have removed the coating, you will need to use
a commercial wax stripper to remove the remaining wax. These coatings are water
based and are easily removed with commercial strippers. Visit your local janitorial supply house and
ask for an alkaline acrylic finish stripper.
If the coating has not been removed with the ammonia, there is a
good possibility that the finish is urethane- or epoxy-based. What this means is that some very strong
solvents will be needed to remove the finish. At this point, it might be wise
to call in a professional. If you wish
to attempt stripping these urethane-based coatings yourself refer to the
stripping procedure in this book. It is
common to find urethane-based coating on slate flooring. They can be very, very
difficult to remove. The removal process may be so aggressive that the
surface may become damaged. Always test
a small area first to make sure you get the desired results.
STRIPPING
PROCEDURE(Acrylics)
To strip a slate floor with commercial
alkaline strippers, use the following procedure. A janitorial floor-buffing
machine and a wet vacuum are highly recommended. Before setting up to strip the
slate be sure to remove all furniture and protect painted surfaces such as
baseboards with plastic drape.
1.
Mix the stripper solution in a separate bucket, following the instructions on the label.
2.
Apply the mixed solution with a string mop to one small section at a
time. Do not apply more than can be
scrubbed effectively. Let the stripper
sit for several minutes; this will allow the chemicals to break up the
coating. If the stripper begins to dry,
add more of the solution to keep it wet.
3.
Scrub the floor using a 175-rpm standard buffing machine equipped with a
black stripping pad or stripping brush (pads and brushes are available at most
janitorial and rental supply houses). Continue scrubbing until the coating
breaks up. Some slate may be scratched
by stripping pads and brushes; always test a small area first before proceeding
with the entire project. If the pad scratches,
your janitorial supply house can
recommend a softer pad or brush.
4.
Pick up the solution with a wet vacuum and rinse immediately. Use a separate string mop, bucket and wringer
for your rinse water.
5.
Examine the area thoroughly. If any of
the coating is still present, re-strip.
When you’re through, be sure to rinse
the floor thoroughly; most alkaline strippers have a tendency to leave a film.
Adding several ounces of a good neutral cleaner or stone soap to the rinse
water will help neutralize the stripping solution.
If a coating is
to be applied, re-apply according to manufacturers instructions. If a
penetrating sealer is to be used, make sure the floor is thoroughly dry. Allow at least 24 hours before sealer
application.
STRIPPING
PROCEDURE(Urethanes)
To strip a slate floor that has a
urethane coating, use the following procedure.
Before setting up to strip the floor be sure to remove all furniture and
protect painted surfaces such as baseboards with plastic drape.
Caution: Some of the strippers for removing
urethane contains solvents such as methylene chloride that is extremely
dangerous to work with. Make sure to
wear protective clothing and goggles and to ventilate the room to avoid being
over come with fumes. Many of these strippers also require you to wear a respirator. These strippers will damage all surfaces so
make sure everything is protected. If you do not feel comfortable with these
procedure, I recommend you contact a professional.
There are also
what are known as “safe strippers” available that do not pose as much as a
danger but they take a very long time to react. Some of these strippers require
as much as a 24-hour dwell time to remove urethane effectively.
1.
Apply the stripper with a paintbrush or roller. Apply liberally and try
not to reapply once you have place the stripper down. Most of these strippers are in a form of a
thick paste..
2. .
Let the stripper sit for several minutes to several hours; this will
allow the chemicals to break up the coating. Do not scrub the floor with
brushes or a floor machine. These
strippers are flammable and machinery should not be used. You can tell when the stripper is working by
a bubbling or softening of the coating. Take a metal putty knife and try
scraping the coating. If it is soft and easily comes off, then it is ready to
be removed.
3. Scrape the coating with a putty
knife and place the soften coating into a metal bucket. These materials will
need to be disposed of in an approved hazardous waste container and will need
to be picked up by a hazardous waste company.
Refer to your yellow pages under hazardous waste. Some counties and
cities also will take these containers. Call you’re your local county
government and ask how to dispose of these materials.
4. Once all the coating has been
removed restrip the slate as outlined above using a commercial floor stripper
for acrylics .
5.
Examine the area thoroughly. If any of
the coating is still present, re-strip.
When you’re through, be sure to rinse
the floor thoroughly; most alkaline strippers have a tendency to leave a film.
Adding several ounces of a good neutral cleaner or stone soap to the rinse
water will help neutralize the striping solution.
If a coating is
to be applied, re-apply according to manufacturers instructions. If a
penetrating sealer is to be used, make sure the floor is thoroughly dry. Allow at least 24 hours before sealer
application.
Important- it is
very important that the slate is thoroughly dry before applying any finish.
Placing a coating on wet slate will cause the coating to turn a milky white
color.
