Countertops 101 Deciding on Your Kitchen Countertop Materials

 

Countertops 101 Deciding on Your Kitchen Countertop Materials

By Frederick M. Hueston, StoneForensics.com

 

For many, their kitchen is the most important room in their house. And most real estate experts agree that the best way to improve or raise the property value of a house is to remodel the kitchen. The four major components of a kitchen remodel usually involve replacing the major appliances, installing new floors, replacing or re-facing the kitchen cabinets, and installing a new countertop. Let’s focus on that final component replacing your current kitchen countertop material with a new one.

Naturally, it involves more than just running off to the store to pick out a new countertop for your kitchen. You will first need to consider how much you want to spend. You also need to think about how much time and effort you’ll need to spend to maintain your new countertop. Finally, you’ll want to seriously consider the style and look you want in your kitchen. Whatever type of countertop you install, it will be the focal point of the entire room.

The very first type of countertop that pops into the mind of every anxious kitchen renovator is granite. However, there are many countertop materials to choose from and granite is only one of them. These days, a kitchen remodeling hopeful can select tile, stone, acrylic, concrete, stainless steel, and laminate, even wood!

GRANITE
Let’s start with the most popular: granite. Granite countertops are the most popular but also the most expensive. Why? Besides the beautiful surface, granite is extremely heat and scratch resistant. A granite countertop is exceptionally durable and will last a long time. A granite countertop will never go out of style and granite slab installation will greatly increase the value of the house. The drawbacks? Other than the expense, granite is a natural stone and it is porous. A sealer will be required to prevent staining. One alternative is to use granite tiles in place of a massive slab. The cost savings on the tiles is high. It is important to not use the granite surface as a cutting board as it will dull the finish (and ruin a knife or two.)

OTHER NATURAL STONES
Besides granite, there are other various stone surfaces that can be used on kitchen counters. Quartzite, marble, limestone, soapstone, and slate surfaces are very popular today. Marble is smooth and cool, perfect for food preparations directly on the surface. Its not as durable as granite and requires more sealing maintenance to protect from staining. Slate is very durable and has such a unique surface that it can really stand out in a kitchen. As slate has been used as a roofing material, it doesn’t require as much sealing protection, but some upkeep is still needed. Limestone is very porous, and spills must be treated quickly to prevent staining. It has a natural, weathered look that can deepen and darken over time. Natural quartzite has a look similar to slate but does not stain or scratch as easily. Engineered quartz has been gaining popularity as well, but the costs are considerably more (engineered materials are a quartz composite product mixed with epoxy, polymers, and small stones or pebbles for a unique look and feel.)

TILE
Glazed ceramic and porcelain tile has been popular in kitchens for decades. It comes in a huge variety of colors, shapes, and designs. The tiles can be a small as a square inch and as large as six square inches. The tiles are durable and also have some of the same heat and scratch resistance qualities as granite. The porcelain tiles are usually more expensive than the ceramic tiles, but the porcelain tiles are more durable and the hardest fired type of tiles. Drawbacks of tile? It can chip easily, more expensive than laminate alternatives, and the grout can be an issue. When putting the tiles together, there are grout lines between each of them and grout can stain very easily. It will require a lot more maintenance to keep it looking good. Because of the grout issues, the ability for the tiles to break and chip easily, and the overall cost, it is best to leave the installation work to a professional.

CONCRETE
Concrete is not only for sidewalks or driveways. A concrete countertop is pigmented and can be polished into a smooth and shiny surface that can resemble any natural stone. The counters can be molded in a factory or cast on site. Concrete is rather porous and needs to be regularly sealed, similar to granite, to resist stains. It can be made into any shape and have any thickness. Concrete is also heat and scratch resistant. The counters can be made in a variety of colors and textures. Drawbacks on concrete? The sealer that is required is not the only protection needed. The sealer needs to be waxed every one to three months to prevent stain and water damage, so maintenance can be extensive. You cannot cut on the concrete surface without leaving marks. Concrete is also very expensive.

STAINLESS STEEL
A restaurant would probably be the first thing one would think of when it comes to a stainless-steel kitchen counter. But there is a reason most restaurants use this material. Durability, stain and water resistance, low maintenance, a myriad of size and shape choices are just a few of those reasons. It’s also very easy to clean and you can put a hot plate or pan on the surface without worry of damaging it. Drawback many don’t like the industrial look of it. It can be rather expensive to have made. Cutting on it can leave marks and it can be easy to dent. It’s important to make sure the surface is at least 18 gauge and has eight to ten percent nickel in it.

WOOD
Sometimes called Butcher Block Countertops, a wood counter is usually made from strips of maple or oak that has been glued together. But just about any hardwood can be made into countertops. Bamboo countertops are the latest trend! Wood counter material has a warm, beautiful look that can come in a variety of shades and textures. It’s perfect for people who want to cut directly on the surface of their counter. It can be sanded and resealed in the event of any deep cuts, scratches or stains. It can be easy to install and the prices are reasonable. Drawbacks? Wood is not very hard and can easily burn, scratch, or dent. The wood can warp or turn black near sinks from regular water contact. And it requires regular sealing.

LAMINATE
Formica is the most common name for laminate counters. Its made of a thin layer of plastic glued to particleboard or wood. Plastic laminate counters are very inexpensive, lightweight, and available in an endless supply of colors and patterns. It is very stain-resistant and, as a plastic material, it is easy to clean. Because it comes pre-formed, it can be easy for a do-it-yourselfer to install. Drawbacks to Formica? While these counters are somewhat durable, they do not last forever. Laminates are not heat or scratch resistant, but they are stain resistant. Abrasive cleaners can dull and scratch the surface. Warping or water spots occur with excessive exposure to moisture. The color or pattern can fade with time.

ACRYLLIC/SOLID SURFACE
Solid surface counters are manufactured tops that are custom-made for any application. Popular companies include Corian, Avonite, and Swanstone. These surfaces are durable, water resistant, easy to clean, non-porous, and are even resistant to mold and bacteria. And nicks or scratches can be sanded away. Drawbacks include problems handling hot pans on the surface, high expense, and the excessive weight requires a good strong cabinet base (similar to natural stone.) Some do not like the plastic or fake look of the material, but the material does have a wide range of colors to choose from.

Replacing the kitchen countertops is only one step in your goal to renovate the kitchen, but it is considered the biggest step by many. You can really make a statement about your kitchen and your home with the right selection of countertop material. Of course, once you take care of those worn out counters that came with the home, it will really make those old cabinets, flooring, and appliances stand out! Its all just part of the process of increasing the value of your property.

 

Discontinued Tile: Remodeling with Discontinued Ceramic Tile

 

Discontinued Tile: Remodeling with Discontinued Ceramic Tile

Using discontinued ceramic tile is a wonderful way to remodel your home while saving a great deal of money. Most businesses will sell discontinued ceramic tile at a great discount and this offers many benefits to the consumer. You can use the tile to remodel your floors, or tile a wall, just make sure that the discontinued ceramic tile is strong enough to handle the use you’ve purposed for it. You should also make sure that you purchase enough of the tile at first, to protect yourself from running out of tile before completing your project.

Cleaning and Discontinued Ceramic Tile

Most ceramic tile requires little more than soapy water to clean it. However, if your discontinued ceramic tile is specially glazed, be sure to find out what cleaning products were recommended to use with your tile. You may also want to write down the name of the manufacturer and contact them as soon as you purchase the tile with any questions that you have. If you contact them in the future, they may no longer have readily available answers for you.

Looking for Discontinued Ceramic Tile

You may be lucky enough to just happen upon discontinued ceramic tile that is perfect for your project while visiting your local homebuilder supply store. If not, and you are set on purchasing this tile for the reason of savings, then you can turn your search to the Internet and look for discontinued ceramic tile from various dealers online. This is a great way to view samples of tiles before you view and will allow you to have many options to choose from. By browsing the Internet, you can save time, money, and gas. Plus, you have the ability to shop from many more stores than you could tackle in person. By choosing discontinued ceramic tile, you can create the project of your dreams and maintain your budget as well. This is a wonderful benefit for both you and the supplier. Remember, for the best assistance, you should ask any questions that you may have regarding the ceramic tile at the time of the sale.

What is that Pink Stuff on my Shower Floor and Walls

 

What is that Pink Stuff on my Shower Floor and Walls

By Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

You walk into your shower and notice this pink discoloration growing between the grout on your tile floors and walls. You may also encounter this pink stain on your toilet where the water line is. What is this pink stuff? Most professionals assume it is a type of mold. There on the right track but there wrong. The pink stuff is caused from a bacterium called Serratia Marcescens. This bacterium is found in the environment and tends to grow on soap and shampoo films.

If you’re a healthy individual the bacteria is harmless, however people with comprises immune systems can experience aliments such as urinary tract and bladder infections. The bacteria can enter the body through the eyes and any open cuts or wounds. For this reason it is best to remove the bacteria with the following procedure:

 

Cleaning that Pink Stuff

 

Fortunately removing this pink bacterium is fairly easy.

To remove the pink film, take about a cup of baking soda and mix it into a paste by adding some liquid dish detergent. Apply this paste to the pink areas and allow it to sit for about 15 minutes or so. Next scrub the surface with a soft nylon scrub brush and rinse with plenty of water.  Repeat until all the pink is gone.

Prevention

Cleaning is not enough since there still may be bacteria. You will need to disinfect the shower. The best disinfectant is bleach. Mix about a ¼ cup of household bleach to a gallon of water. Spray this mixture and allow it to sit for about 10 minutes. Then rinse with plenty of water.

This Pink bacterium spreads in damp and wet areas so its important to dry the shower each time its used to remove any excess water.

If soap scum or shampoo starts to accumulate clean it with a nonacid shower cleaner and towel dry.

Remove any shower curtains and wash on a monthly basis.

Keep the bathroom air circulating to help keep in dry. Turning on the exhaust fan for 20 minutes after a shower will help.

Make sure to keep bathroom windows closed. This bacterium is air-borne and can enter from the outside air.

Why Painting Brick is a Bad Idea

 

Why Painting Brick is a Bad Idea

By Frederick M. Hueston, Stone Forensics

 

That ugly, deteriorating brick wall needs to be cleaned and painted. So out comes the pressure washer to clean it and then an application of several coats of paint. BAD IDEA.  Painting brick can cause all kinds of problems and if that brick is already deteriorating than painting it will only accelerate the damage. The following article will explain why painting brick is a bad idea.

 

Types of Brick

Before we understand why paints, coating, sealers etc are a bad idea for brick we must first understand what types of bricks are out there as well as how brick react to moisture.

In the construction industry there are basically five brick types

 

• Burnt clay bricks

These are the most common bricks and the ones normally found in most homes and buildings. They are made from wet clays, compressed and fired in a kiln. They are commonly red in color but can be found in almost any earth tone.

• Sand lime bricks (calcium silicate bricks)

These are manufactured by a combination of sand, fly ash and lime. Color pigments are added for various colors. Unlike burnt clay bricks they are not fired with the same technique. They are molded under heat and pressure and form a chemical bond to hold them together. The are usually gray in color but can be any color. Their finish is smoother than other brick types and are often used for strength.

• Concrete bricks

Concrete brick as made of Portland cement mixtures. They are also available in various colors. They are commonly used in fencing and interior brick work

• Fly ash clay bricks.

These are light weight bricks since they contain fly ash. They tend to expand in in the presents of moisture. They are also highly fire resistant and often used foundations

 

 

 

• Refractory Bricks

These types of bricks contain special blends of earth and aluminum oxide. They can withstand extremely high temperature. They are commonly used inside chimneys and furnaces as well as pizza ovens and outdoor barbecues.

 

Brick Properties and its Deterioration

More than likely the brick you plan on painting is very porous. Of course, the mortar between the brick, which is called “point”, is also very porous. Most paints, sealers and other coating and treatments are not breathable or what is called vapor permeable. This prevents water from escaping the brick and mortar.

Most of the problems associated with brick can be traced to moisture or water intrusion of some kind. Many stains are caused by the presents of water. Water is an essential ingredient for the setting, cleaning and restoration of brick, but it can also be its number one enemy.

What problems are associated with moisture and water.  The following is a brief description of these problems.

Efflorescence

Efflorescence appears as a white powdery residue on the surface of the brick.  It is a common condition on new brick installations or when the brick is exposed to a large quantity of water, such as weather and washing.  This powder is a mineral salt from the setting bed or brick itself.  To remove efflorescence do not use water, brush the brick with a clean soft nylon brush.  The brick will continue to effloresce until it is completely dry.  This drying process can take several days to as long as one year or more.

Subflorescene

Subflorescene is what happens when the mineral salts migrate and do not make it all the way to the surface. In the efflorescence condition above, the salts are deposited on the surface of the brick. In subflorescene the salts crystallize just below the surface, causing stress within the pores of the brick. The result is a condition known as spalling which appears as pits or flaking in the surface of the brick.  subflorescence is very common on brick and is very common on almost all masonry surfaces where de-icing salts are used.

 

 

Mineral crusts or Lime Putty

 

Mineral crusts or lime putty can be recognized by its white crust like formation on brick surfaces. These crusts are often found on outdoor brick walls, water fountains and other areas where brick is exposed to water. The crusts are a deposit of hard mineral salts consisting of calcium, magnesium. These minerals originate from the soil, setting bed or from the water itself. These salts are similar to efflorescence in that they are a mineral. They differ in that they form a hard crust that can be difficult to remove.

 

Now imagine all these salts trying to escape the surface of the brick. As the salts being carried by water migrates to the surface and meets the paint of coating, they become trapped.  The salts continue to accumulate in the pores of the brick and slowly attack the brick causing the paint to flake and the brick to break down and in server cases turn to powder. At this point replacement may be the only option.

In conclusion if painting brick or applying any sealer or coating it is important to make sure the paint, sealer or coating is breathable. Most paints and sealers are not.

The Best Way to Clean a Granite Countertop Inexpensively

 The Best Way to Clean a Granite Countertop Inexpensively

Frederick M Hueston

Stoneforensics.com

The Best Way to Clean a Granite Countertop – Inexpensively!

Figuring out the best way to clean a granite countertop that you've sunk a great deal of money into can keep one up nights! Well, put your mind at rest. We know exactly what you need to do to keep that investment in peak condition without costing you an arm and a leg! So read on to learn the best way to clean a granite countertop.

Despite the seemingly hundreds of products claiming to be the best way to clean a granite countertop, the truly best (and cheapest!) way is right in your home! Just grab that bottle of isopropyl rubbing alcohol and your halfway to the cleanest, shiniest, and, yes, best way to clean a granite countertop.

Many cleaning supply retailers may claim the best way to clean a granite countertop employs the use of harsh chemicals. Not so! To clean any kind of stone product, its smart to use a product with a neutral pH. Cleaners that contain acidic ingredients, including vinegar, can cause scratching and even deep etches.

Alcohol and water mix, on the other hand, with a pH of around 7.0, is one of two ingredients needed for the best way to clean a granite countertop. The other? Good, old-fashioned liquid dishwashing detergent. When you add a few drops of say, Dawn dishwashing detergent to a quarter-cup of alcohol, then fill the rest of a quart-size spray bottle with water, you've got yourself the best way to clean a granite countertop for only a few, measly cents. Compare that to the $5 or $6 you'll pay for those expensive (and potentially damaging) products that you've mistakenly thought to be the best way to clean a granite countertop.

Other things to keep in mind for the best way to clean a granite countertop include maintenance and prevention. Maintain your beautiful stone by blotting spills immediately and then deep cleaning weekly with your homemade alcohol/dish soap solution. Prevent damaging your stone by avoiding placing anything acidic directly on it, which includes tomatoes, oranges, lemons, limes, or grapefruit. The juices of these food products are particularly damaging.

Now that you know the best way to clean a granite countertop, relax! So don't let it keep you up nights any longer. Your empowered! You've got the best way to clean a granite countertop under control now. So for heavens sake get some sleep!

Why is my Pool Deck turning green and black?

 

Why is my Pool Deck turning green and black?

Frederick M. Hueston

 

What is that green and black stuff growing on my pool deck? The majority of these unsightly spots are the result of biological growth in the form of Algae, Molds, Lichens and  Mosses as well as plants such as ivy and grasses. The following guide will help you in identifying these biological growths as well as removing and controlling them.

Biological Growth Types

Algae

Algae is commonly green in color but can also be black, orange, red or yellow. It is easy to identify since it grows in mats, films and patches on the surface of stone, brick and Concrete.

Algae is a single cell plant but lacks roots, leaves, stems and vascular tissue.  Most algae, especially the green type needs moisture and sunlight to grow. However there are species that will grow in low light but damp moist areas are usually required.

Moss

The most common moss is green but can also be red. Like algae it requires sunlight and moisture to grow but in addition needs a mineral source often found in soils. Unlike algae it has root structure and a very small leaf structure. It will often be growing in the grout between the stone and masonry.

 Mold

Mold is not a plant but a fungus. It does not require sunlight but does require moisture and an organic food source. Mold is generally black in color but can also be red, organe, brown or yellow. Mold grows easily on many types of limestone since they contain organic matter to feed the mold.

Lichens

Lichens comprise a fungus living in a symbiotic relationship with an alga or cyanobacterium (or both in some instances). They can be red, yellow, red, green, white or yellow. They are identified by crusts or leaf like structures with defined borders, growing away from the surface of the stone or masonry.

Ivy, Grasses and Higher plants

 These plants are easily identified by there root system and there large leaf structure. They are often green in color.

 

Removal of Biological Growth

Regardless of the type of biological growth removal requires the uses of biocide cleaning chemicals such as peroxide, bleach and other biocides. The following is a basic cleaning procedure that is recommended to remove these growths.

 

1.     Wear gloves and protective clothing. A mask is recommended since some mold and algae spores can emit spores which can be harmful to your respiratory system.

2.     Algae is best removed when it is dry since the spores are more likely to become airborne when wet. Allow the surface to dry or dry it with a fan. Once dry remove as much as possible by scraping of scrubbing with a stiff broom or brush.

3.     A pressure washer can be used to remove the remaining biological growth but there are some precautions and recommendations as follows:

a.      Do not use high pressure. Test the pressure in a non-conspicuous area to make sure you are not damaging the stone or masonry.

b.     Use hot water if possible. Hot water will also kill some of the biological growth as well sanitize the surface.

c.      Use a wide nozzle tip to minimize damage. Keep the tip of the wand at least 12 inches away from the surface.

d.      

4.     Bleach or Vinegar can be used to clean suborn growth. Mix the bleach or vinegar. Use one cup of bleach or vinegar with one gallon of water. test this mixture in a non-conspicuous area to test for discoloration. Some stone and masonry types can lighten up with bleach or vinegar.

5.     Apply the bleach or Vinegar mixture on the deck and allow it to sit for 15-20 minutes. Do not let it dry. If it dries, apply more of this mixture.

6.     After 15-20 minutes scrub the area with a nylon brush and rinse with plenty of clean water. Be care of nearby plants since this mixture can kill landscaping plants and grasses.

In lieu of bleach or vinegar you can use many of the commercial cleaners that are available at most home centers. Be sure to read the directions carefully. 

Spot Removal

If you have just a few spots you can use 3% hydrogen peroxide. Simply spray the growth with the peroxide, allow it to sit for several minutes and then rinse with water.

 

 

Prevention

To keep biological growth at bay you should clean the deck on a regular bases. There are also sealers and preventive biocides that are available which will hasten the growth. But you best defense is to keep the deck clean.

The Use of Limestone in your Shower

 

Limestone Use in Wet Areas

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Over the past 30 years I have inspected hundreds if not thousands of shower installation that have use limestone.  The amount of deterioration I have observed in nearly all these installations ranged from staining to complete disintegration of the stone. Most will attempt to blame the installation method, but I can assure you these issues occur in installations that are installed within industry guidelines.

In a nutshell I would not recommend using limestone in wet areas. The following is why I would not recommend it

 

1.      Limestone is a sedimentary stone. It naturally contains minerals such as iron. When iron is exposed to continued wetting the iron will begin to oxidize causing a large stain. At first the stain may appear light brown but over time it will darken and continue to oxidize to a deep brown to reddish stain.  Removing the iron from the stone is nearly impossible since it is part of the mineral makeup of the stone.

2.      Limestone, even when sealed is typically very porous.  Water will enter the pores of the stone and react with the setting bed. The setting bed contains salts which become dissolved in the water. The water carries the salts into the pores of the stone. When the stone dries, the salts recrystallize causing pressure in the pores resulting in the stone blowing out(spalling).

3.      Limestone is an organic sedimentary rock that forms from the accumulation of shell, coral, algal, and fecal debris. It is formed by sediment settling to the bottom of a water basin. The main mineral is calcium carbonate.  Calcium carbonate can be soluble in water. This is yet another reason to avoid using limestone in a wet environment. Since it often contains organic matter, this too is soluble in water.

4.      Steam showers are even a bigger concern with limestone installation due to the fact the vapors produced by the steam can enter very tiny pores that liquid water cannot. The steam than condense in the pores causing the stone to deteriorate.

5.      The Natural Stone Institute, who is the leading trade association in the industry, recommends that only class A & B stones be used in interior wet areas. Limestone fall into a C class at best, Many fall into the D classification. For more info on this classification system go to The Natural Stone Institutes website at https://www.naturalstoneinstitute.org/

 

One may question the fact that limestone is used on building exteriors with no issues. This is true but there is a big difference. The average shower produces on average of over 8000 inches of water per year. To put this in perspective the rainiest area of earth is in China which has 321 inches of rain a year.. The average shower has over 26 times that amount. That’s a lot of water.

I have been in the stone business for over 35 years and have numerous colleges who agree that using limestone in a shower is not recommended.