Walk Off and Entrance Mats for your Stone Floors

 

Walk Off and Entrance Mats for your Stone Floors

By Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

 

Marble and other stone flooring have long been prized as a symbol of elegance and wealth. However, the cold, hard truth is that if not handled carefully, they can be just that—cold and hard, not to mention expensive to replace. Walk off or entrance mats are necessary to protect your marble/stone floors from stains and scratches, prevent rugs from slipping, and add protection and cushioning.

 

To prevent slipping on marble/stone floors, walk off mats backing needs significant gripping force. Be sure to look for backing made of natural rubber rather than synthetic adhesives and glues, which can stick to and stain floors, to protect your priceless marble/stone floors and keep mats firmly in place. Natural rubber naturally and securely attaches to carpets and floors, whether used alone or in combination with felt. Heat-pressed felt, which delivers a blend of grip and cushion when paired with natural rubber, is also naturally long-lasting.

Keeping your Walk Off Mats Clean

Every floor mat needs to be cleaned frequently. However, this is particularly crucial for entrance floor mats. Entrance floormats are frequently subjected to highly adverse weather and environmental circumstances. This occurs as a result of the installation of entrance mats across the doorway. Others are positioned right outside the door, while others are placed right within the house. The doorway is covered with additional entrance mats that stretch both inside and outside the house or building. As a result, more dirt and moisture are present on the mat because it is exposed to exterior weather and environmental factors. The heavy use is another justification for routine entrance mat cleaning. Anyone entering your house or office building must tread on and scrape on the welcome mat. This implies that a lot of dirt, muck, wetness, and debris are collected by entrance mats. To make your entrance floor mats more practical and to maintain your building clean, you should give them a thorough cleaning.

Also don’t forget the underside. Many walk off mats can accumulate moisture under them and this can cause staining on the stone floor. You should remove the mats regularly and clean and dry the underside.

There are many types of mats available so be sure to check with your local janitorial supplier for recommendations. Even the best mats if not properly cleaned can damage stone floor so make sure to regularly clean these mats and if they are worn replace them.

 

Common Wood Floor Failures

 

Common Wood Floor Failures

 

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Natural wood floors add special warmth to a space and can increase the value of a home or business. However, with that said, wood floors are not flawless, and problems can arise that distract from their beauty. Some of these problems can result in long-term damage. All wood floors eventually deteriorate, but if they show signs of deterioration after just a few years, then it is likely that either something went wrong during the installation or that the floor was not properly maintained. This article is a brief guide to some of the most common issues with wood flooring and how to avoid or repair them.

 

Improper Prep Before and During Finish Application

 

Before a finish is placed, the floor must be properly sanded and cleaned to receive the finish. If not, the finish tends to peel. In addition, the finish must be abraded and cleaned in between coats, and adequate drying time allowed before a topcoat is applied. Failure to do any of these things can result in the finish peeling.

 

Improper Wood Floor Sanding

 

Improperly sanded floors have sanding grooves that are problematic to finish application. Wood floor finish settles at the bottom of these sanding grooves, but the tops of the grooves receive little to no finish. Consequently, surface deteriorates when the floor is exposed to foot traffic. To avoid this problem, try sanding bare boards to either 100 or 120 grit, depending on the finish.

 

Pay attention to the sanding materials you use in between coats of finish. Old abrasive screens or sanding pads can cause unattractive scratches that resemble spider webs on a wood floor. Additional finishes can accentuate these flaws. By the time you finish the job, poor sanding will be very obvious. To eliminate these scratches, the finish must be sanded past the coat where the scratches were first produced. Unfortunately, it can be challenging or even impossible to determine which coat of finish is scratched, so your best bet would be to start over and completely refinish the floor.

 

For proper wood floor sanding, sand between each finish application with high-quality abrasive pads that produce smaller, less apparent, and more numerous scratches. A suitable scratch pattern can greatly improve adhesion between finish applications. When sanding oil-based polyurethanes, use 150- to 180-grit pads, and when sanding between applications of water-based finishes, use 220-grit pads.

 

For the best finish, use the best sandpaper.

 

Inadequate Wood Floor Finish Drying Time

If coats of finish are added too quickly, the finish could take up to six months to cure. The result will be a wood floor with an aged appearance. Be sure to allow adequate drying time between finish applications.

 

Improper Wood Floor Maintenance

 

Thoroughly polished and sanded wood floors will need periodic professional services in order to maintain a pristine, welcoming appearance. Damage to the finish can happen in numerous ways. Grit on wood floors behaves like sandpaper with foot traffic. Unprotected furniture feet or unclipped pet nails can severely damage a finish, as well. Sometimes re-coating a slightly worn floor without completely removing the original finish can dramatically improve the appearance of the floor. On the other hand, it is better to sand down a floor to bare wood and refinish it if it has significant wear and severe scratches.

 

Other Common Problems

Other common problems with wood floors include peeling, grit and foreign particles in the finish, finish droplets, stains, gaps, cupping, buckling/sagging, and cracks. Let's take a look at each of them.

 

Peeling

 

The most frequent source of peeling is excess stain that is not removed from the floor before applying finish. Remove excess stain no later than three minutes after it has been applied and allow the floor to completely dry before applying the finish to avoid a buildup of stain residue. Don't use several applications of stain too quickly. Allow it to dry.

 

Other causes of peeling include using finishes that are incompatible with each other or applying finishes to burnished wood, that is, wood that has become too smooth because of high-grit over-sanding.

 

When a floor peels, the best solution is to sand the floor down to the bare wood and start over. The issue might not be resolved by simply abrading the floor and applying a fresh topcoat, because furniture polishes, waxes, and oils used to clean wood floors can soak into the pores of the finish and may hinder new finish from successfully adhering.

 

Grit and Foreign Particles

 

Wet paint functions like a sizable piece of flypaper. Once the finish is complete, any dust or animal hair that gets inside of it will be more noticeable. Clean every surface in the room, including light fixtures and walls, before finishing the floor to keep debris from damaging the finish. Sweep the floor and wipe it down with a tack cloth, but never use tack cloths made for use on automobiles. They can have silicone in them, which jeopardizes the finish.

 

Line your applicator tray with an inside-out garbage bag. Strain the finish before being pouring it into the applicator. Finally, carefully wash and vacuum the applicator to eliminate any remaining loose fibers.

 

In the event that some debris penetrates the finish, make repairs by sanding the floor between applications of finish and then painting the floor with a fresh topcoat.

 

Finish Droplets

 

Moisture is always to blame when tiny polyurethane droplets collect around the borders of each floorboard. The polyurethane that flows into the spaces between the floorboards as the floor moves is what causes the droplets. This issue typically arises when a floor is being finished during the transition between dry and humid seasons. The boards expand as they acclimatize to the weather, pushing any uncured polyurethane out of the gap.

 

Poly droplets can be eliminated with a razor blade, a rag, and floor cleaner if they are discovered in time. If a mess has already been formed, either from walking on the droplets or from allowing them to dry, then each droplet must be manually removed with a razor blade from the floor before the entire surface is abraded in order to prepare for a new topcoat.

 

Stains

 

The most common cause of wood floor stains is pet accidents, although water can also be very destructive. A wood-floor cleanser can typically remove stains that have accumulated on a floor finish, but stains that have penetrated the wood surface must be sanded off. Stains that seep into the wood fibers are the most challenging to remove.

 

Two-part wood bleach can be used to restore the surface of a stained wood floor. Bleach the entire floor, not just a portion of it. (This requires a lot more work but results in a floor with a uniform gloss and hue.) After a couple of hours, neutralize the floor, and once it has dried, it can be sanded and refinished. Deeply soiled floorboards, particularly those that have been affected by pet urine, are typically replaced. However, removing stains with two-part wood bleach can also work.

 

This stain removal method comes with some negative aspects. The tendency of bleach to break down wood fibers can make wood more prone to denting. Additionally, there is no guarantee that the bleach will completely remove the stains from the wood, so wood flooring or floorboards may still need to be replaced.

 

Gaps

 

Wood flooring is susceptible to shifting. Properly installed floorboards will hold tightly together during the humid seasons of the year and may show gaps during the dry seasons. The installation of flooring in overly dry places can also result in abnormal gaps, which are typically caused by the flooring being too moist when it is put in place. Examples include regions that receive a lot of sunlight, floorboards installed directly over heating ducts, and houses heated by wood stoves, which produce a dry indoor environment.

 

Gaps can be an aesthetic problem and should be fixed anytime they detract from the appearance of the entire floor. Fix abnormal gaps during the wettest season of the year when gaps are the smallest. Closing gaps when they are at their widest could result in a floor that buckles due to insufficient space for expansion.

 

Finally, never fill gaps with wood filler. Instead, use wood glue to attach small pieces of wood to the floorboard borders to create a repair. To avoid gluing any boards together, take care to just apply glue to one side of the sliver.

 

Cupping

 

A board's edges cup when the bottom is wetter than the top. The most frequent cause of cupping is the installation of flooring over a damp basement or crawlspace. Although cupping is more likely to occur on wide plank flooring, it can also occur on strip flooring.

 

Vapor retarders can improve the situation by reducing the rate of moisture migration but should not be considered a long-term fix for moisture issues. For strip flooring laid over traditionally constructed floors, use a vapor retarder. On floors over slabs, install broad plank flooring, or install radiant heating.

 

Once moisture problems have been resolved, some cupped floors flatten while others will remain irreversibly distorted. When the moisture content of the top and bottom of the boards is within 1%, a floor that does not lie flat will need to be sanded. To inspect the board bottoms, drill a moisture meter through the subfloor. Do not sand the peaked edges of a floor that has been cupped too soon, or you will risk having crowned boards once the wood is completely dry.

 

Buckling and Sagging

 

Too much moisture can cause wood flooring to expand to the point that it rises off the subfloor, causing shifts to door frames and separation of floor trim from walls. A floor may sag because of a flood, a moist basement, or from being installed when it was too dry. In any event, moisture is the primary cause of buckling and sagging.

 

Proper fastening can help prevent buckling and sagging. Nails should be the right size and spaced correctly. Using the proper size trowel during glue-down installations can help ensure a strong bond between the floors and the subfloor. Poor fastening can make buckling and sagging problems worse.

 

Some buckled floorboards can be refastened, but some need to be taken out. When feasible, reuse floorboards, but if the tongues and grooves are broken or the boards are damaged, you must replace them. Do not attempt to restore buckled flooring until moisture problems have been resolved and the moisture content of the floorboards and subfloor is at the proper level.

 

Cracks

 

Compared to other types of flooring, factory-finished wood floors have more cracks, and a wood flooring nailer can easily ruin the finish on these boards. Most manufacturers produce adapters for their nailers that prevent the force of the nailer from concentrating on the surface of the floorboards.

 

Boards with a severely damaged edges should be immediately replaced during installation.

 

The faces of floorboards, whether factory-finished or normal, can develop cracks. Checks in the wood are usually to blame for this damage. Some species of wood are more prone checking and cracking than others.

 

Manufacturers can also cause cracking if the kiln dries the wood too soon. A manufacturer repair kit, which normally consists of wood filler, colored marker, and a bottle of finish, can be used to fix factory-finished boards.  To ensure that the colors, tones, and sheen are exactly matched, replace the board, or fix the crack with wood filler before applying a layer of finish to the entire floor.

 

Follow these suggestions to resolve problems that diminish the beauty of wood floors or cause long-term damage. A properly installed and maintained wood floor can last a lifetime.

Some Kitchen Design Ideas

 

Some Kitchen Design Ideas

By Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

 

In deciding on how to design your kitchen, you must take into consideration such things as: will your kitchen have an island?  Will it be of a modern or traditional design?  What kinds of appliances will you need for your new kitchen design?   What kind of lighting design?

Kitchens have evolved a lot over the years.  Once found only in the rear of the house, today's kitchen design takes the kitchen out the background.  The challenge for kitchen design is in creating a more open-faced kitchen, that is part of a dining area, a family room or a great room.

In deciding on how to design your kitchen, you must take into consideration such things as: will your kitchen have an island?  Will it be of a modern or traditional design?  What kinds of appliances will you need for your new kitchen design?   What kind of lighting design?

 

1. Kitchen as 'Great Room' 

Whether you are redesigning an existing kitchen or planning a new kitchen in a new home there are some design considerations to keep in mind, such as including in an island or peninsula as part of the kitchen design.  These can be used to connect the kitchen to a nearby dining area or family room thereby creating a 'great room'.   A kitchen island or peninsula will allow the cook to keep in visual and conversational contact with family members or guests in the adjoining family or dining room.

2. Create a Kitchen Canopy

To give the kitchen some visible borders without blocking views create a kitchen canopy.  Also a high ceiling in the kitchen can create the perception of spaciousness.

3. Using Kitchen Cabinet Color to Set Tone of Kitchen Design

Kitchen cabinets will help set the tone for the whole room.  The choice of wood will influence the overall look of your cabinets.  To create a light look, use a light wood such as ash, beech, birch, oak, maple, or chestnut.  For medium range, select cherry.  To darker kitchens, choose wood that has some color to it.

4.  Plan Out Use of Cabinets and Drawers in The New Kitchen Design

Plan out in the kitchen design blueprint just how your cabinets and drawers will be used and how much space and storage you will need before you start your new kitchen design.  The first thing to examine is the counter surface area.  Look at where you put everything in your existing kitchen and where in your new kitchen design will these things will go in the new space.  Will there be more than one person cooking at a time.  If so, will there be enough room for two cooks in the kitchen to work together?

 

 

5. Use The Galley-Type Kitchen Design

As for counter arrangements, many kitchen designers agree the galley-type design to be the best in terms of efficiency with it's single aisle and counters to either side, making it easy to turn around to go from sink to cooking range.

6.   Under-Cabinet Kitchen Lighting

Kitchen lighting can be an overlooked area of kitchen design.  Even if the kitchen has generally good lighting, the counter areas can be somewhat dark.  For these areas under-cabinet lighting can help provide more light to work in.  By using simple spots or fluorescent lights a smaller kitchen can be made to look larger.

7.   Looking at Countertops

Granite, marble, and limestone are all popular natural materials for use in countertops are available in many colors.  Ceramic tile kitchen countertops are versatile, practical, and also available in many colors, as well as many shapes, patterns, and finishes.  Solid surface countertops provide seamless acrylic faces.  Solid surfaces also come in almost limitless colors, patterns, and styles, and are stain and heat resistant.  Laminate countertops are more affordable but not built to last.  Concrete countertops are known for versatility, as well as strength.  Wood countertops are long lasting and easy to clean and repair but the wood will not withstand exposure to water and household chemicals.  Stainless steel countertops lack the elegance of granite or tile.   These countertops do not absorb stains, but tends to scratch easily.

 

 

How to Stain Your Concrete Floor

 

How to Stain Your Concrete Floor

By Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

 

Acid staining can make a common concrete floor into look like expensive natural stone flooring. Not only is it a fraction of the price, but for people allergic to carpeting materials its a godsend. Another great application is in houses with radiant floor heating. Radiant heating is at its most efficient when insulating floor coverings like tile or carpet are minimized.

The process of staining a concrete floor, while not overly complex, can be tough to get the results you want from. Most folks are probably better off hiring a professional contractor. Its a risky project for the do-it-yourselfer.

If youre not familiar with it, concrete stain isnt a paint or finish coat. It involves a chemical reaction on cement materials. Typically a water-based solution of hydrochloric acid and inorganic salts, the stain reacts with minerals and lime in the concrete aggregate, and the result of the reaction is coloring. It works on new or old concrete, and is fairly durable if you maintain it with sealer or wax, since it wont stain or chip. It can also be applied to both interiors and exterior floors. Walkways, bathrooms, entrances, driveways, living rooms and patios are all fair game.

When its finished, stained concrete looks a little like marble, but more dappled and less uniform. The concrete will mostly be earthy brown tones, with hints of red and green. Its possible to make your own tint stain by mixing colors, or applying at dissimilar rates. When you stain a concrete floor, though, dont expect the stain to be uniform or have an even tone. Plan your room decor and color scheme accordingly, because you’ll get dissimilar reactions from different areas of the concrete, and even a seasoned pro will be hard pressed to predict what the final result will be.

Surface prep for acid staining concrete depends on what condition your slab is in. Newly poured concrete only needs is be allowed time for curing- three weeks after pouring- then some rinsing and scrubbing. Older concrete is a different story. Thorough cleaning is required because any dirt, grease, paint, sealer or even curing agent will keep the stain from penetrating and reacting as it should. Do a little test area to make sure its ready.

Newer poured concrete will require less stain than older floors, but in general, a gallon of water added to one gallon of stain will cover around 400 square feet. Apply the stain with a non-metallic brush or broom, working in the cooler morning or evening hours, rather than in the heat of the day. Be careful to protect yourself from spillage, drips and fumes from the acid stain, and follow the manufacturers precautions.

After application, you need to cleanup by sweeping away any leftover stain and residue with a broom. When the floor is thoroughly dry, it is a good idea to apply a sealer agent and then wax it.

If you are in the market for natural stone flooring, a new look for your basement or patio, or just looking for new remodeling ideas, stained concrete is something you should look into.

 

Natural Stone Tiles the Confusion Surrounding Sealing

 

Natural Stone Tiles the Confusion Surrounding Sealing

By Frederick M. Hueston, StoneForensics.com

 

There would seem based my own experience that there is a lot of confusion amongst the general public and some builders as to what sealing natural stone actually means.

When we talk about sealing a surface we normally mean that an impenetrable barrier is painted on or applied in some way. For example, tiled floors are often sealed to give them added protection and make them shine. To do this a series of coats of emulsion polish are applied to the surface and allowed to dry. This seals the floor and gives it protection. Other surfaces such as wood are often sealed with a coating of a polyurethane product. This adds strength to the surface and protects it. Many other normally porous surfaces can be sealed with a layer that sits on the surface acting as a barrier to penetrative agents and gives protection also.

The sealing of natural stone such as marble, granite, limestone and slate is very different. Natural stone is made up of crystals that interlock together. The actual minerals that are present as crystals in the stone give it its color and striations. However, there are spaces between the crystal and the smaller these spaces are and the more the crystals have been compacted together the less porous the stone is. So, these spaces will determine the porosity of the stone. A combination of pore size and mineral content of the stone will also determine its hardness and thus its durability. These spaces in the stone are air filled when the stone is dry and water filled when the stone is wet. Bacteria inhabit these spaces, and these are often vital for the maintenance of the stone. Very little research has been carried out into these bacteria but what has been done would suggest that they are essential in maintaining the integrity of the stone.

Consequently, we have the picture of stone as quite a complex mix of minerals, bacteria and spaces. You must imagine the stone to be something akin to a very hard sponge! If you drop a liquid onto the stone it will be absorbed and spread through the spaces. This is why what initially looked like a small spillage can end up as quite a large stain in the stone. To remove the stain it has to be flushed out of these spaces. All a stone sealer does it fill up these spaces. Many of the stone sealants in use are based on fatty acids rather than synthetic sealants. These natural sealants are better because they do not destroy the bacteria but often enhance them. Synthetic sealants will destroy these bacteria that has longer-term consequences on the stones makeup. Sealants based on fat however have a shorter lifespan and must be renewed periodically.

Whatever sealant is used it simply fills up the spaces between the crystals it does not cover the surface of the stone. Its purpose is simply to delay the penetration of liquids into the stone. So if corrosive materials get onto the stone then it will be damaged. Stone sealants do not form a protective seal on the surface of the stone. Consequently stone is only protected from absorbing liquids. It is not protected from surface damage.

 

Advantages of Kitchen Granite Countertops

 

Advantages of Kitchen Granite Countertops

By Frederick M. Hueston, StoneForensics.com

 

Kitchen granite countertops are created by nature and fashioned by man are a beautiful, durable and cost-effective choice for kitchens and baths. The term granite comes from the Latin root word granum, which means “grain.”

Granite is often imported from Europe, Africa, Brazil, and other regions of the world rich in natural stone. Granite is an attractive natural stone that will add color and warmth to your kitchen. Granite is an extremely hard material that will not blister, scratch or crack.
The hardness of granite is rivaled only be the hardness of diamonds. In fact, diamonds are used to cut and polish granite.

Over the last 10 years kitchen granite countertops have become popular with homeowners, after first being popular with designers for decades. Granite is available in hundreds of colors, from various shades of white to browns, reds, greens, blues, and black. The most popular tones are brown and beige.

As well as being hard kitchen granite countertops can take hot items, like pots and pans, and is very stain resistant to hot grease and oil if it is sealed with a good quality impregnator. It can easily be cleaned and cut for a basin. Granite has a cool polished surface that makes it an excellent surface for rolling out pastry dough. The polished finish of granite will not wear off easily.

Kitchen granite countertops are unique because no two pieces of granite are exactly the same, therefore granite provides an interesting design element and adds certain richness and texture to your kitchen not found in other surfaces. Kitchen granite countertops can create a brilliance and elegance that is only found in nature. Granite adds a personality and character to kitchen countertops that is unsurpassed. Kitchen granite countertops have a natural beauty that can complement any tone of wood or style of cabinets.

It does not matter if you are planning a new home or remodeling an existing kitchen, with granite kitchen countertops you can be sure that you will add to value of your home.

Kitchen remodelers and home builders have experienced a boom in the demand for kitchen granite countertops. Although it can be more expensive to put in granite countertops, they remain the odds-on favorite choice for more upscale homes, since they keep their value better than most home improvements

The investment you make in kitchen granite countertops should pay you back at least three times what you invested. If you are selling your home, you will find that home buyers wanting kitchen granite countertops will be willing to pay more for your home than if you have ceramic tile or plastic laminate.

Planning out your kitchen granite countertop first involves selecting the right granite color. You should concentrate on the most popular colors. Even though granite tones are usually neutral, you may find that a certain color goes well for your kitchen design.

If you are replacing the old countertop material in your kitchen with granite, carefully diagram all the measurements for the granite installer. If installing new cabinets is part of your kitchen remodel, ask the granite fabricator what they recommend for cabinetry.

Since you are using such a superior product as granite, you should think about the right type of sink to go with your new kitchen granite countertop. You should definitely consider going with an undermount stainless steel sink, as opposed to an overmount sink that would be difficult to clean around.

In addition to getting the right kind of sink installed, it is also important to select the just the right faucet to go with the sink. A stainless-steel faucet would go well with the looks of a rich kitchen granite countertop.

The next important area is upgrading your cabinet hardware. The handles and knobs should also be of high quality to provide good accent to the overall look of the kitchen. Even if you are not replacing the cabinetry having high quality hardware with make those cabinets and the whole kitchen stand out.

So, in planning your kitchen remodeling, just remember that kitchen granite countertops will make a provide a world-class addition and increase the re-sale value of your home.

 

Soapstone Countertops Decidedly Magnificent

 

Soapstone Countertops Decidedly Magnificent

By Frederick M. Hueston, StoneForensics.com

 

Soapstone countertops may be just the thing you’re looking for in a decorators dream of a kitchen! Not only do these type countertops look wonderful, they’re also one of the most durable and maintenance-free countertops you can choose. Read on to find out more about soapstone countertops and what makes them so wonderfully appealing.

The mineral used to make soapstone countertops, steatite, comes from metamorphic rock. This non-porous material offers an ideal medium for applications such as kitchen countertops because it does not absorb liquids. Unlike other materials often used for kitchen countertops, including granite, soapstone countertops do not stain because of this unusual characteristic.

Another exceptional quality about soapstone countertops lies in its unique thermal properties. Nearly heatproof, placing a hot pot or pan directly from the stovetop or oven on it causes no damage whatsoever. Because of its excellent ability to withstand heat, this mineral is used not only in soapstone countertops, but also in a number of other applications including laboratory counters, oven interiors, grills, and many more.

One of the most remarkable and attractive properties of soapstone countertops stems from its upkeep. Maintaining soapstone countertops means nothing more than regularly applying mineral oil to it with a rag. By keeping the same rag sealed in a zip-locked plastic bag and reusing it, one maintains the beauty and luster of soapstone countertops indefinitely. The oiling of soapstone countertops also creates the added benefit of it darkening over time to a dark gray and eventually to a rich, deep black color. Sometimes soapstone countertops develop deep green markings that come from natural-occurring shadings of the stone.

Scratches or marring inevitably occurs in soapstone countertops that receive heavy use. To remedy this, first sand with 120-grit sandpaper, then go over the mark with 220-grit sandpaper and water. Rub mineral oil into the area, wait a few hours and apply more mineral oil. Continue to apply mineral oil over the course of several days until the soapstone that has been repaired matches its surrounding areas.

Now that you know more about soapstone countertops, why not do some research yourself? You may find this unusually appropriate material just the thing for which you’ve been looking in a kitchen countertop. You’ll never know, though, till you check it out. The wave of the future in kitchen design may very well be soapstone countertops. Don’t miss out!

 

Countertops 101 Deciding on Your Kitchen Countertop Materials

 

Countertops 101 Deciding on Your Kitchen Countertop Materials

By Frederick M. Hueston, StoneForensics.com

 

For many, their kitchen is the most important room in their house. And most real estate experts agree that the best way to improve or raise the property value of a house is to remodel the kitchen. The four major components of a kitchen remodel usually involve replacing the major appliances, installing new floors, replacing or re-facing the kitchen cabinets, and installing a new countertop. Let’s focus on that final component replacing your current kitchen countertop material with a new one.

Naturally, it involves more than just running off to the store to pick out a new countertop for your kitchen. You will first need to consider how much you want to spend. You also need to think about how much time and effort you’ll need to spend to maintain your new countertop. Finally, you’ll want to seriously consider the style and look you want in your kitchen. Whatever type of countertop you install, it will be the focal point of the entire room.

The very first type of countertop that pops into the mind of every anxious kitchen renovator is granite. However, there are many countertop materials to choose from and granite is only one of them. These days, a kitchen remodeling hopeful can select tile, stone, acrylic, concrete, stainless steel, and laminate, even wood!

GRANITE
Let’s start with the most popular: granite. Granite countertops are the most popular but also the most expensive. Why? Besides the beautiful surface, granite is extremely heat and scratch resistant. A granite countertop is exceptionally durable and will last a long time. A granite countertop will never go out of style and granite slab installation will greatly increase the value of the house. The drawbacks? Other than the expense, granite is a natural stone and it is porous. A sealer will be required to prevent staining. One alternative is to use granite tiles in place of a massive slab. The cost savings on the tiles is high. It is important to not use the granite surface as a cutting board as it will dull the finish (and ruin a knife or two.)

OTHER NATURAL STONES
Besides granite, there are other various stone surfaces that can be used on kitchen counters. Quartzite, marble, limestone, soapstone, and slate surfaces are very popular today. Marble is smooth and cool, perfect for food preparations directly on the surface. Its not as durable as granite and requires more sealing maintenance to protect from staining. Slate is very durable and has such a unique surface that it can really stand out in a kitchen. As slate has been used as a roofing material, it doesn’t require as much sealing protection, but some upkeep is still needed. Limestone is very porous, and spills must be treated quickly to prevent staining. It has a natural, weathered look that can deepen and darken over time. Natural quartzite has a look similar to slate but does not stain or scratch as easily. Engineered quartz has been gaining popularity as well, but the costs are considerably more (engineered materials are a quartz composite product mixed with epoxy, polymers, and small stones or pebbles for a unique look and feel.)

TILE
Glazed ceramic and porcelain tile has been popular in kitchens for decades. It comes in a huge variety of colors, shapes, and designs. The tiles can be a small as a square inch and as large as six square inches. The tiles are durable and also have some of the same heat and scratch resistance qualities as granite. The porcelain tiles are usually more expensive than the ceramic tiles, but the porcelain tiles are more durable and the hardest fired type of tiles. Drawbacks of tile? It can chip easily, more expensive than laminate alternatives, and the grout can be an issue. When putting the tiles together, there are grout lines between each of them and grout can stain very easily. It will require a lot more maintenance to keep it looking good. Because of the grout issues, the ability for the tiles to break and chip easily, and the overall cost, it is best to leave the installation work to a professional.

CONCRETE
Concrete is not only for sidewalks or driveways. A concrete countertop is pigmented and can be polished into a smooth and shiny surface that can resemble any natural stone. The counters can be molded in a factory or cast on site. Concrete is rather porous and needs to be regularly sealed, similar to granite, to resist stains. It can be made into any shape and have any thickness. Concrete is also heat and scratch resistant. The counters can be made in a variety of colors and textures. Drawbacks on concrete? The sealer that is required is not the only protection needed. The sealer needs to be waxed every one to three months to prevent stain and water damage, so maintenance can be extensive. You cannot cut on the concrete surface without leaving marks. Concrete is also very expensive.

STAINLESS STEEL
A restaurant would probably be the first thing one would think of when it comes to a stainless-steel kitchen counter. But there is a reason most restaurants use this material. Durability, stain and water resistance, low maintenance, a myriad of size and shape choices are just a few of those reasons. It’s also very easy to clean and you can put a hot plate or pan on the surface without worry of damaging it. Drawback many don’t like the industrial look of it. It can be rather expensive to have made. Cutting on it can leave marks and it can be easy to dent. It’s important to make sure the surface is at least 18 gauge and has eight to ten percent nickel in it.

WOOD
Sometimes called Butcher Block Countertops, a wood counter is usually made from strips of maple or oak that has been glued together. But just about any hardwood can be made into countertops. Bamboo countertops are the latest trend! Wood counter material has a warm, beautiful look that can come in a variety of shades and textures. It’s perfect for people who want to cut directly on the surface of their counter. It can be sanded and resealed in the event of any deep cuts, scratches or stains. It can be easy to install and the prices are reasonable. Drawbacks? Wood is not very hard and can easily burn, scratch, or dent. The wood can warp or turn black near sinks from regular water contact. And it requires regular sealing.

LAMINATE
Formica is the most common name for laminate counters. Its made of a thin layer of plastic glued to particleboard or wood. Plastic laminate counters are very inexpensive, lightweight, and available in an endless supply of colors and patterns. It is very stain-resistant and, as a plastic material, it is easy to clean. Because it comes pre-formed, it can be easy for a do-it-yourselfer to install. Drawbacks to Formica? While these counters are somewhat durable, they do not last forever. Laminates are not heat or scratch resistant, but they are stain resistant. Abrasive cleaners can dull and scratch the surface. Warping or water spots occur with excessive exposure to moisture. The color or pattern can fade with time.

ACRYLLIC/SOLID SURFACE
Solid surface counters are manufactured tops that are custom-made for any application. Popular companies include Corian, Avonite, and Swanstone. These surfaces are durable, water resistant, easy to clean, non-porous, and are even resistant to mold and bacteria. And nicks or scratches can be sanded away. Drawbacks include problems handling hot pans on the surface, high expense, and the excessive weight requires a good strong cabinet base (similar to natural stone.) Some do not like the plastic or fake look of the material, but the material does have a wide range of colors to choose from.

Replacing the kitchen countertops is only one step in your goal to renovate the kitchen, but it is considered the biggest step by many. You can really make a statement about your kitchen and your home with the right selection of countertop material. Of course, once you take care of those worn out counters that came with the home, it will really make those old cabinets, flooring, and appliances stand out! Its all just part of the process of increasing the value of your property.

 

What is that Pink Stuff on my Shower Floor and Walls

 

What is that Pink Stuff on my Shower Floor and Walls

By Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

You walk into your shower and notice this pink discoloration growing between the grout on your tile floors and walls. You may also encounter this pink stain on your toilet where the water line is. What is this pink stuff? Most professionals assume it is a type of mold. There on the right track but there wrong. The pink stuff is caused from a bacterium called Serratia Marcescens. This bacterium is found in the environment and tends to grow on soap and shampoo films.

If you’re a healthy individual the bacteria is harmless, however people with comprises immune systems can experience aliments such as urinary tract and bladder infections. The bacteria can enter the body through the eyes and any open cuts or wounds. For this reason it is best to remove the bacteria with the following procedure:

 

Cleaning that Pink Stuff

 

Fortunately removing this pink bacterium is fairly easy.

To remove the pink film, take about a cup of baking soda and mix it into a paste by adding some liquid dish detergent. Apply this paste to the pink areas and allow it to sit for about 15 minutes or so. Next scrub the surface with a soft nylon scrub brush and rinse with plenty of water.  Repeat until all the pink is gone.

Prevention

Cleaning is not enough since there still may be bacteria. You will need to disinfect the shower. The best disinfectant is bleach. Mix about a ¼ cup of household bleach to a gallon of water. Spray this mixture and allow it to sit for about 10 minutes. Then rinse with plenty of water.

This Pink bacterium spreads in damp and wet areas so its important to dry the shower each time its used to remove any excess water.

If soap scum or shampoo starts to accumulate clean it with a nonacid shower cleaner and towel dry.

Remove any shower curtains and wash on a monthly basis.

Keep the bathroom air circulating to help keep in dry. Turning on the exhaust fan for 20 minutes after a shower will help.

Make sure to keep bathroom windows closed. This bacterium is air-borne and can enter from the outside air.

The Use of Limestone in your Shower

 

Limestone Use in Wet Areas

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Over the past 30 years I have inspected hundreds if not thousands of shower installation that have use limestone.  The amount of deterioration I have observed in nearly all these installations ranged from staining to complete disintegration of the stone. Most will attempt to blame the installation method, but I can assure you these issues occur in installations that are installed within industry guidelines.

In a nutshell I would not recommend using limestone in wet areas. The following is why I would not recommend it

 

1.      Limestone is a sedimentary stone. It naturally contains minerals such as iron. When iron is exposed to continued wetting the iron will begin to oxidize causing a large stain. At first the stain may appear light brown but over time it will darken and continue to oxidize to a deep brown to reddish stain.  Removing the iron from the stone is nearly impossible since it is part of the mineral makeup of the stone.

2.      Limestone, even when sealed is typically very porous.  Water will enter the pores of the stone and react with the setting bed. The setting bed contains salts which become dissolved in the water. The water carries the salts into the pores of the stone. When the stone dries, the salts recrystallize causing pressure in the pores resulting in the stone blowing out(spalling).

3.      Limestone is an organic sedimentary rock that forms from the accumulation of shell, coral, algal, and fecal debris. It is formed by sediment settling to the bottom of a water basin. The main mineral is calcium carbonate.  Calcium carbonate can be soluble in water. This is yet another reason to avoid using limestone in a wet environment. Since it often contains organic matter, this too is soluble in water.

4.      Steam showers are even a bigger concern with limestone installation due to the fact the vapors produced by the steam can enter very tiny pores that liquid water cannot. The steam than condense in the pores causing the stone to deteriorate.

5.      The Natural Stone Institute, who is the leading trade association in the industry, recommends that only class A & B stones be used in interior wet areas. Limestone fall into a C class at best, Many fall into the D classification. For more info on this classification system go to The Natural Stone Institutes website at https://www.naturalstoneinstitute.org/

 

One may question the fact that limestone is used on building exteriors with no issues. This is true but there is a big difference. The average shower produces on average of over 8000 inches of water per year. To put this in perspective the rainiest area of earth is in China which has 321 inches of rain a year.. The average shower has over 26 times that amount. That’s a lot of water.

I have been in the stone business for over 35 years and have numerous colleges who agree that using limestone in a shower is not recommended.

Why You Should Consider Staining Your Concrete Floor

 

Why You Should Consider Staining Your Concrete Floor

Frederick M Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

Acid staining can make a common concrete floor into look like expensive natural stone flooring. Not only is it a fraction of the price, but for people allergic to carpeting materials its a godsend. Another great application is in houses with radiant floor heating. Radiant heating is at its most efficient when insulating floor coverings like tile or carpet are minimized.

The process of staining a concrete floor, while not overly complex, can be tough to get the results you want from. Most folks are probably better off hiring a professional contractor. Its a risky project for the do-it-yourselfer.

If youre not familiar with it, concrete stain isnt a paint or finish coat. It involves a chemical reaction on cement materials. Typically a water-based solution of hydrochloric acid and inorganic salts, the stain reacts with minerals and lime in the concrete aggregate, and the result of the reaction is coloring. It works on new or old concrete, and is fairly durable if you maintain it with sealer or wax, since it wont stain or chip. It can also be applied to both interiors and exterior floors. Walkways, bathrooms, entrances, driveways, living rooms and patios are all fair game.

When its finished, stained concrete looks a little like marble, but more dappled and less uniform. The concrete will mostly be earthy brown tones, with hints of red and green. Its possible to make your own tint stain by mixing colors, or applying at dissimilar rates. When you stain a concrete floor, though, don’t expect the stain to be uniform or have an even tone. Plan your room decor and color scheme accordingly, because you’ll get dissimilar reactions from different areas of the concrete, and even a seasoned pro will be hard pressed to predict what the final result will be.

Surface prep for acid staining concrete depends on what condition your slab is in. Newly poured concrete only needs is be allowed time for curing- three weeks after pouring- then some rinsing and scrubbing. Older concrete is a different story. Thorough cleaning is required because any dirt, grease, paint, sealer or even curing agent will keep the stain from penetrating and reacting as it should. Do a little test area to make sure its ready.

Newer poured concrete will require less stain than older floors, but in general, a gallon of water added to one gallon of stain will cover around 400 square feet. Apply the stain with a non-metallic brush or broom, working in the cooler morning or evening hours, rather than in the heat of the day. Be careful to protect yourself from spillage, drips and fumes from the acid stain, and follow the manufacturers precautions.

After application, you need to cleanup by sweeping away any leftover stain and residue with a broom. When the floor is thoroughly dry, it is a good idea to apply a sealer agent and then wax it.

If you are in the market for natural stone flooring, a new look for your basement or patio, or just looking for new remodeling ideas, stained concrete is something you should look into.

 

5 steps to complete a successful ceramic tile installation for the DIY

 

5 steps to complete a successful ceramic tile installation for the DIY

Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

If laying ceramic tiles is totally new to you, “5 Steps to complete a successful ceramic tile installation” is a set of basic but important tips that you will help you avoid making costly mistakes on your next bathroom or ceramic tile installation.

” Plan which Tile
” Shop around if you want to save
” Prepare the surface for a long lasting job
” Lay the tiles
” Finishing touches

Plan which Tile

This step is often underestimated and sometimes even forgotten (can you believe it?). Planning your ceramic tile installation from A to Z is probably one of the most important steps for a smooth, easy going and problem free bathroom tile installation.

Some things to take in account are;

” Suitability of the tile
” Pattern /colour of the tile
” Size of the tile
” Size of the area to be tiled. (This is important data that will be vital to know how much tile, grout, etc, you have to buy)
” Adhesive, mortar or grout to suit your needs

Not all ceramic tile installations are the same, different tiling installations may require different mortar or grout. DO NOT feel shy about asking the suppliers for advice or help in calculating how much you need. They will gladly help you, as they are likely to make a sale.

Shop around if you want to save

This isn’t as difficult as the first step, however when the budget is tight it can be tricky to find the right tile for the ceramic tile installation you want. You are going to have to make some compromises and so don’t get carried away by the beauty of some of the ceramic tiles. Prices can vary a lot between different tiles, so some end up rather expensive for only a few square feet.

Always shop around, it has never been easier. Just sit in front of the computer and use the Internet. Use local directories to find the suppliers close to you and pay them a visit.

Before making your final decision always check the chosen tile under different lights as the results can be surprisingly different.

Prepare the surface for a long lasting job before laying the ceramic tiles
The surface to be tiled (floor, wall or any other) will often need to be prepared, this can include work like filling, levelling, smoothing, priming and sometimes water proofing.

The right preparation will be directly affect the lifespan of the ceramic tile installation. Unless you want to be tiling again soon, you want to get this right from the start.

This is probably the most important point to ensure a long lasting tiling job. Don’t rush it.

Laying the ceramic tiles safely

The technique of laying ceramic tiles is not especially difficult. It only takes a little bit of practice before anyone can easily master it. Clearing the room to be tiled before starting will help you to do the job safer and easier. Don’t forget to wear your safety goggles when cutting or chipping tiles.

Laying ceramic tiles can also be a bit messy, if you don’t want dust all over the house we suggest sealing the room you want to tile whenever possible. A large piece of plastic tacked to the door frame will do the job quite well.

Try not to allow any adhesive to get on your skin and never forget to read the manufacturers directions before even opening the tin. If some ends up on you, just clean it with water as soon as possible. Even though tile adhesives aren’t usually abrasive, if you leave it for some time it may cause an allergic reaction.

Use a spirit level to help you with the depth & level of the tiles and spacers to maintain an even distance between them.

The finishing touches

Once the tile adhesive or mortar has cured (dried) and the tiles are firm and even, you can start with the finishing touches.

You’ll have to fill the spaces between tiles with grout making sure you don’t leave any gaps as these cause damp problems, in a shower for example.

The technique is very simple, use a rubber faced trowel to spread the grout and a cotton cloth to clean the excess grout from the tiles afterwards.

There are many different types of grouts; you’ll have to choose the right one depending on the surface and chosen tile.

Now that you have your ceramic tiles laid down, you only need to take care of them, usually manufacturers provide information on taking care of their tiles and only minimal effort is required. Most household cleaning products will do the job well, if some particular stain is stubborn, there are many commercial stain removers, just make sure you use the right product for the right tile.

You are now closer to discovering how satisfying it can be handling a tile installation yourself; just follow these 5 steps to get the best result.