Is a Stone Floor Safe for Older Adults

 

Is a Stone Floor Safe for Seniors(Older Adults)

By Frederick M Hueston stoneforeniscs.com

 

 

A simple google search will come up with hundreds of recommendations for flooring for older adults. Most of them are recommending carpet, cork, rubber or other non-slip type flooring. While these are good choices for older folks there is one thing they have not considered?  These flooring types may be slip resistant, but they are often a trip hazard. Here is why

A lot of older adults shuffle rather that step and walk normally. Also many use a cane or walker. Flooring like carpeting, cork or rubber can reduce the gliding resistance of a shoe and cause someone to fall.  So what are the other choices.

Stone

No, isn’t marble and granite shiny and it’s too slippery? You would think that these shiny surfaces would be slippery when in fact they are not if properly polished.  Most of the slip fall accidents that occur are not on stone flooring.  The top reason for falls is tripping over something and the second is uneven surfaces. Fortunately, a properly installed stone floor is very flat. This means that shuffling or using a walker is very easy and will not catch like it would on carpet or other type flooring

In addition, unlike most ceramic tile, stone has a very narrow grout joint. The advantage to such a narrow joint it is unlike to catch in one shoe or the leg of a walker or a cane.

What if the stone gets wet? Any surface that gets wet can be a slip hazard. Even wet carpeting can be very slippery when wet. The good news for marble and granite is that there are treatments that can be applied to give the stone surface a safe walking surface even when wet. These treatments create microscopic depressions in the stone which act like tiny suction cups. They provide just enough grip when wet to prevent a slip but not enough to catch and cause a trip.  They should be applied by an experience applicator or stone floor restoration contractor.

What about vinyl or wood flooring? These materials can also be slip and trip resistant if properly installed. However, unlike stone they will need the application of a finish which can not only increase maintenance cost and frequency but choosing the wrong finish can also make the floor more slippery.

 

Thousands of slip fall accidents occur each year and installing the proper flooring can not only prevent these but can be safer for the older adult.

 

My Stone and Tile Floor Has Flooded, Now What?

 

My Stone and Tile Floor Has Flooded, Now What?

By Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

 

Flooding that accompanies hurricanes and other storms can potentially ruin stone, tile, wood, and other types of flooring. The most pressing concern home and property owners have after a flood is whether the floor can be saved. Answering this question can be tricky, because it depends on a variety of factors, including the source of the water, how long the water remained on the surface, and the environment. Let’s look at each of these factors, as well as actions to take immediately following a flood.

Water Source

Is the flood water source fresh water or salt water? If the property is near an ocean or a saltwater source, the salts contained in the water can dry and cause stone, tile, grout, and concrete to pit and fall apart. If the flood water contains sewage, contaminants may be introduced into the pores of the surface material and harbor harmful bacteria. Any type of water can cause a wood floor to warp.

Dwell Time

How long has the water remained on the surface? The longer water sits, the more it can seep into the floor, including the slab or wood substructure under the flooring. The longer water sits, the greater chance for mold and mildew to develop. It only takes 24 to 48 hours after a flood for mold and mildew to start growing. As long as moisture remains, these fungi will continue to grow.

Temperature

Hot and humid climates can also increase the damage to many flooring types. Without air conditioning, flooring materials can expand, which causes stress to the material. Expansion joints can mitigate this stress, but if the floor was installed without proper expansion joints, stone and tile may tent or crack.

Floor types that generally can’t be saved or repaired include wood, certain laminates, vinyl, linoleum, and carpeting. Stone, tile, terrazzo, and other hard surfaces can often be saved.

Preparing for Cleaning Up

Before removing debris, do the following.

1. Make sure the flood has receded. There is no sense in cleaning up if additional flooding will occur.

2. Wear protective gloves and goggles. Flood water may contain some nasty contaminants. For anyone concerned about getting sick, consider wearing a Tyvek suit, which provides protection against a wide range of chemical threats and hazards.

3. Turn off the power. Water can easily seep into outlets and cause electrocution.

4. Take plenty of photos for the insurance company. This is something that many people forget to do, but documenting the damage can be very helpful, especially if you have expensive furnishings. Call your insurance company to report the damage.

Removing Debris

Next, remove any furniture or other items that may have been soaked. After the area is cleared, remove any mud or muck with a shovel.

Remove the Water

Remove the water with a wet vacuum. If there is a lot of water, rent a commercial wet vac. If the flood is minor, soak up the water with towels or a mop and bucket. Vacuum out floor heating or air conditioning registers, as well.

Sanitize the Floor

After the water is removed, clean the floor with soap water. Mix 1/4 cup mild dish soap and 3 cups warm water for marble and limestone flooring. Mix 1/4 cup dish soap, 2 cups vinegar, 2 cups warm water, and 1/2 cup lemon juice for other types of hard flooring.

In a large bucket, combine 5 gallons of water and 1 cup of bleach. Spread the bleach mixture on the floor with a mop or squeegee to sterilize the area. Do not rinse the floor with water. Allowing the bleach to dwell will help facilitate the sanitization process.

Here is a bleach-free alternative formula for sanitizing. Fill a spray bottle with hydrogen peroxide that has a 3% concentration. Spray the surface until it is completely saturated with the hydrogen peroxide.

After the floor surface has dried, clean the area with the previously mentioned dish detergent mixture. A good store-bought, pH-neutral cleaner can also be used in place of the dish detergent formula.

Dry the Floor

Place dehumidifiers in the flooded area or use fans to move the air. This will help accelerate the evaporation of water and moisture. Turn on the air conditioner, as well, because it will function as a dehumidifier.

Monitor the moisture of the floor with an inexpensive moisture meter, available at any big box store or online.

Carefully watch the floor for any color changes over the next few days or weeks. Some flooring types can yellow, change color, or fade.

Do not apply any sealers to the floor if it is not completely dry.

Call a Professional

If the floor is turning color or appears to be deteriorating, consult with the property’s insurance company and a professional flooring inspector.

It may take months to properly clean and make the required repairs after a flood. If the humidity level in the flood area is high, be prepared to wait at least 6 months after a flood before starting the remodeling process.

 

About the Author

Fred Hueston, aka, “Dr Fred” has been a floor professional for over 40 years. To read more about him and his company visit StoneForensics.com.

MOLD & MARBLE- WHATS IT ALL ABOUT

 

Mold & Marble- whats it all about

by Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

Mold Oh My!  I can’t tell you how many calls I have received over the years with homeowners worried about mold. This concern usually happens after a flood.  Should you be worried, Is marble or any other stone for that matter prone to the growth of mold.  Fortunately, In addition to being an expert on stone I am also a degreed biologist so let me solve this concern:

Let’s first look at what mold needs to grow. Mold in general needs six things to grow and thrive. Without these molds cannot develop.

Moisture- Being a living thing mold needs moisture to thrive. Of course, to prevent mold all you need to do is eliminate the water source. But what about a shower or wet area? Yes, this area can be prone to mold, etc. but it is only one thing that mold requires.  What if I have a flood or leak on my marble floor other than the wet area. Again, moisture can contribute to the problem, but it is not the only factor required for it to grow and thrive.

Tip: To prevent mold from growing in your shower simply take a squeegee and remove the water from the walls after every use. You can also use towels to dry the floor.

Oxygen- Mold and every living thing needs oxygen to survive. Or more technically air. If you remember your grammar school biology air contains 78% nitrogen and only 21% oxygen so I guess, we can say that mold needs air not just oxygen. So, if air cant get behind your marble floors or walls than mold cannot grow. But don’t be fooled, air can find its way into the tiniest of spaces so don’t assume your walls or floors are airtight.

Food- Mold also get hungry and with a food source it cannot survive. So what does mold eat. A nice cheeseburger perhaps. Mold is not a picky eater, and it can survive an almost anything organic which can include the food we eat but also drywall, wood and other building materials that contain organic materials. Yes, even cheeseburgers.

 

Light- No, mold hates the light, especially UV light. However, it loves the dark. Therefore you will find mold in dark corners or areas where no light can shine. This is one of the reason molds does not grow outdoors in direct sunlight. Sunlight has strong UV(ultra violet) light and will kill mold. As a matter of fact, UV lights are used by professional mold remediators to kill mold.  So, you could put UV lights all through your house but only if you want a good tan. No, NO, No. just kidding. UV light can cause skin cancer so please don’t do that.

 

Temperature- Have you ever noticed that mold does not grow on your food in the freezer but does in the refrigerator. The reason is that mold needs a warm temperature. Anything over 32 degrees F and mold can grow but the ideal temperature for most mold is above 60 degrees Fahrenheit or for your metric people out there 16 degrees centigrade. As the temperature rises so does the mold growth. Summer can be a real mold producer since its not only warm but there tends to be more mold spores in the air. More on this next.

 

Spores- Mold spores are everywhere. The air you are breathing right now contains mold spores. So don’t run for the mouthwash, it can’t be prevented unless you are breathing through a filter. So, why doesn’t these spores cause mold to grow everywhere. The answer is simply they need someplace to attach and all the requirements about are met, then and only than can mold take root and start to grow and thrive.  Now if your really grossed out you can always install an air purifier in your home, but this won’t eliminate 100% of the spores.

 

Marble and Mold- So to answer the question can marble contain or harbor mold? The simple answer is yes, if it has moisture, air, food, warmth and a dark place.  In many cases once the marble is dried and cleaned mold is not going to be a concern on marble or any other stone surface. However, if the proper environment is present, it can be a place for it to grow and thrive. In most cases this is rare but not impossible. The reason is that most marble installations do not have enough of a food source for the mold to thrive. Without food or any of the other factors described above, mold will surely die.

Become a Stone and Tile Consultant and Earn Over $250 per Hour

 

Become a Stone and Tile Consultant and Earn Over $250 per Hour

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Are you a tile installer, stone restoration contractor or someone that provides physically demanding stone and tile services? Is your back giving out? Do your knees hurt? Do you have trouble getting up? Are you concerned about of all those aches and pains now and in your future? Or maybe you are just looking for new ways to capitalize on your hard-earned years of experience.

Become a forensic stone and tile inspector and expert witness and make as much as $250/hr or more sharing your knowledge and experience. The number of failures, poor installations and other issues with stone and tile flooring are on the rise and the demand for experts is greater now than ever.

Many years ago, I fell into the stone and tile consulting business by accident. One day I received a call from someone who wanted me to look at a stone tile installation that was failing. The tile was popping up all over the place. They told me they needed someone to do an inspection of the problem and find a cause for the failure. I told them I could take a look at it, but in my mind, I had no idea what to charge. After some research I told them I could look at it and provide an opinion for about $500. They didn’t hesitate. I drove about 30 minutes out of town, and it took me less than 30 minutes to identify what the problem was. It was just a poor installation. I spent a total of and hour and half and made the most money I had ever made in that amount of time. Suddenly, a light bulb went off and I thought, I wonder if I can do this for a living? Well 20 years later I am making a good living doing just that. No more painful time on my knees, no employees, no payroll, and the only equipment I need is testing meters. Now I am consistently earning over $250 per hour—and many times as much as $3500—for one single inspection.

After providing inspections for the last twenty years, I have come up with a comprehensive course that can teach you the same thing that has taken me nearly all my life to learn.

Stone Forensics’ Stone and Tile Troubleshooting and Inspection Workshop will teach you about stone and tile failures, how to troubleshoot, and how to leverage your expertise to offer consultation, professional troubleshooting and inspection, as well as expert witness services and soon you too can be generating a great income just for your knowledge.

All you need to qualify is to have experience in the stone and tile industry and willingness to learn. For more info check out https://stoneforensics.com/em_event/stone-and-tile-troubleshooting-and-inspection-workshop/

Is Acid Rain Ruining my Stone

 

Is Acid Rain Ruining my Stone

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Many of us have heard the stories on the news about how acid rain can affect our waterways, potentially killing fish and plants and destroying the environment. But what about your exterior stone surfaces? Are Pool decks, sidewalks and buildings made of stone affected by acid rain. The simple answer is yes but let’s explore a little deeper.

 

What is acid rain?

Any type of precipitation that contains acidic elements, such as sulfuric or nitric acid, that falls to the ground from the atmosphere in wet or dry forms is referred to as acid rain, also known as acid deposition. Rain, snow, fog, hail, and even acidic dust might fall under this category

When sulfur dioxide (SO2) and nitrogen oxides (NOX) are released into the atmosphere and carried by wind and air currents, acid rain is the result. Nitric and sulfuric acids are created when the SO2 and NOX react with water, oxygen, and other substances. Then, before hitting the ground, they combine with water and other substances.

So, what causes acid rain?

fossil fuels are burned to produce electricity. Electric power generators are responsible for two thirds of the SO2 and one fourth of the NOX in the environment.

vehicles and large machinery.

businesses like manufacturing and oil refineries.

Acid rain is an issue for everyone, not just those who live close to these sources because winds can carry SO2 and NOX over large distances and across borders.

 

How does acid rain affect stone surfaces

First you need to know that marble and limestone and the most susceptible to acid rain. Granite and sandstone are resistant. Marble and limestone are made up primarily of calcium carbonate. This mineral easily dissolves in acid solutions. So, you can imagine if the rainwater that is exposed to these surfaces would dissolve the calcium carbonate. The result produces a rough surface on the stone and over time can even cause the stone to break apart and even turn to powder.

You could anticipate that acid precipitation wouldn't harm protected sections of stone home and buildings. However, protected portions of limestone and marble exhibit blackened crusts that, in some locations, have spalled (peeled off), exposing deteriorating stone beneath. Gypsum, a mineral created by the interaction of calcite, water, and sulfuric acid, makes up the majority of this black crust. Gypsum can form anywhere on carbonate stone surfaces that are exposed to sulfur dioxide gas (SO2) and is soluble in water; however, it is typically washed away. It only persists on covered areas that are not directly wet by rain. Gypsum is white, but the networks that form between the crystals capture dirt and impurities, giving the crust a black appearance. What this means is that even exterior stone not directly exposed to the weather can also be affected.

How do I protect Marble and Limestone from Acid Rain?

 

The answer is not that simple. There is protective coating that can be applied that will resist the acidity however coating any stone in an exterior can cause other problems.  See my article on how sealing exterior stone can be detrimental. If you suspect acid rain maybe the cause of your stone deterioration, then a stone consultant should be called in to evaluate the installation and possibly suggest a remedy. Don’t be surprised if that remedy is to replace the stone.

Common Wood Floor Failures

 

Common Wood Floor Failures

 

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Natural wood floors add special warmth to a space and can increase the value of a home or business. However, with that said, wood floors are not flawless, and problems can arise that distract from their beauty. Some of these problems can result in long-term damage. All wood floors eventually deteriorate, but if they show signs of deterioration after just a few years, then it is likely that either something went wrong during the installation or that the floor was not properly maintained. This article is a brief guide to some of the most common issues with wood flooring and how to avoid or repair them.

 

Improper Prep Before and During Finish Application

 

Before a finish is placed, the floor must be properly sanded and cleaned to receive the finish. If not, the finish tends to peel. In addition, the finish must be abraded and cleaned in between coats, and adequate drying time allowed before a topcoat is applied. Failure to do any of these things can result in the finish peeling.

 

Improper Wood Floor Sanding

 

Improperly sanded floors have sanding grooves that are problematic to finish application. Wood floor finish settles at the bottom of these sanding grooves, but the tops of the grooves receive little to no finish. Consequently, surface deteriorates when the floor is exposed to foot traffic. To avoid this problem, try sanding bare boards to either 100 or 120 grit, depending on the finish.

 

Pay attention to the sanding materials you use in between coats of finish. Old abrasive screens or sanding pads can cause unattractive scratches that resemble spider webs on a wood floor. Additional finishes can accentuate these flaws. By the time you finish the job, poor sanding will be very obvious. To eliminate these scratches, the finish must be sanded past the coat where the scratches were first produced. Unfortunately, it can be challenging or even impossible to determine which coat of finish is scratched, so your best bet would be to start over and completely refinish the floor.

 

For proper wood floor sanding, sand between each finish application with high-quality abrasive pads that produce smaller, less apparent, and more numerous scratches. A suitable scratch pattern can greatly improve adhesion between finish applications. When sanding oil-based polyurethanes, use 150- to 180-grit pads, and when sanding between applications of water-based finishes, use 220-grit pads.

 

For the best finish, use the best sandpaper.

 

Inadequate Wood Floor Finish Drying Time

If coats of finish are added too quickly, the finish could take up to six months to cure. The result will be a wood floor with an aged appearance. Be sure to allow adequate drying time between finish applications.

 

Improper Wood Floor Maintenance

 

Thoroughly polished and sanded wood floors will need periodic professional services in order to maintain a pristine, welcoming appearance. Damage to the finish can happen in numerous ways. Grit on wood floors behaves like sandpaper with foot traffic. Unprotected furniture feet or unclipped pet nails can severely damage a finish, as well. Sometimes re-coating a slightly worn floor without completely removing the original finish can dramatically improve the appearance of the floor. On the other hand, it is better to sand down a floor to bare wood and refinish it if it has significant wear and severe scratches.

 

Other Common Problems

Other common problems with wood floors include peeling, grit and foreign particles in the finish, finish droplets, stains, gaps, cupping, buckling/sagging, and cracks. Let's take a look at each of them.

 

Peeling

 

The most frequent source of peeling is excess stain that is not removed from the floor before applying finish. Remove excess stain no later than three minutes after it has been applied and allow the floor to completely dry before applying the finish to avoid a buildup of stain residue. Don't use several applications of stain too quickly. Allow it to dry.

 

Other causes of peeling include using finishes that are incompatible with each other or applying finishes to burnished wood, that is, wood that has become too smooth because of high-grit over-sanding.

 

When a floor peels, the best solution is to sand the floor down to the bare wood and start over. The issue might not be resolved by simply abrading the floor and applying a fresh topcoat, because furniture polishes, waxes, and oils used to clean wood floors can soak into the pores of the finish and may hinder new finish from successfully adhering.

 

Grit and Foreign Particles

 

Wet paint functions like a sizable piece of flypaper. Once the finish is complete, any dust or animal hair that gets inside of it will be more noticeable. Clean every surface in the room, including light fixtures and walls, before finishing the floor to keep debris from damaging the finish. Sweep the floor and wipe it down with a tack cloth, but never use tack cloths made for use on automobiles. They can have silicone in them, which jeopardizes the finish.

 

Line your applicator tray with an inside-out garbage bag. Strain the finish before being pouring it into the applicator. Finally, carefully wash and vacuum the applicator to eliminate any remaining loose fibers.

 

In the event that some debris penetrates the finish, make repairs by sanding the floor between applications of finish and then painting the floor with a fresh topcoat.

 

Finish Droplets

 

Moisture is always to blame when tiny polyurethane droplets collect around the borders of each floorboard. The polyurethane that flows into the spaces between the floorboards as the floor moves is what causes the droplets. This issue typically arises when a floor is being finished during the transition between dry and humid seasons. The boards expand as they acclimatize to the weather, pushing any uncured polyurethane out of the gap.

 

Poly droplets can be eliminated with a razor blade, a rag, and floor cleaner if they are discovered in time. If a mess has already been formed, either from walking on the droplets or from allowing them to dry, then each droplet must be manually removed with a razor blade from the floor before the entire surface is abraded in order to prepare for a new topcoat.

 

Stains

 

The most common cause of wood floor stains is pet accidents, although water can also be very destructive. A wood-floor cleanser can typically remove stains that have accumulated on a floor finish, but stains that have penetrated the wood surface must be sanded off. Stains that seep into the wood fibers are the most challenging to remove.

 

Two-part wood bleach can be used to restore the surface of a stained wood floor. Bleach the entire floor, not just a portion of it. (This requires a lot more work but results in a floor with a uniform gloss and hue.) After a couple of hours, neutralize the floor, and once it has dried, it can be sanded and refinished. Deeply soiled floorboards, particularly those that have been affected by pet urine, are typically replaced. However, removing stains with two-part wood bleach can also work.

 

This stain removal method comes with some negative aspects. The tendency of bleach to break down wood fibers can make wood more prone to denting. Additionally, there is no guarantee that the bleach will completely remove the stains from the wood, so wood flooring or floorboards may still need to be replaced.

 

Gaps

 

Wood flooring is susceptible to shifting. Properly installed floorboards will hold tightly together during the humid seasons of the year and may show gaps during the dry seasons. The installation of flooring in overly dry places can also result in abnormal gaps, which are typically caused by the flooring being too moist when it is put in place. Examples include regions that receive a lot of sunlight, floorboards installed directly over heating ducts, and houses heated by wood stoves, which produce a dry indoor environment.

 

Gaps can be an aesthetic problem and should be fixed anytime they detract from the appearance of the entire floor. Fix abnormal gaps during the wettest season of the year when gaps are the smallest. Closing gaps when they are at their widest could result in a floor that buckles due to insufficient space for expansion.

 

Finally, never fill gaps with wood filler. Instead, use wood glue to attach small pieces of wood to the floorboard borders to create a repair. To avoid gluing any boards together, take care to just apply glue to one side of the sliver.

 

Cupping

 

A board's edges cup when the bottom is wetter than the top. The most frequent cause of cupping is the installation of flooring over a damp basement or crawlspace. Although cupping is more likely to occur on wide plank flooring, it can also occur on strip flooring.

 

Vapor retarders can improve the situation by reducing the rate of moisture migration but should not be considered a long-term fix for moisture issues. For strip flooring laid over traditionally constructed floors, use a vapor retarder. On floors over slabs, install broad plank flooring, or install radiant heating.

 

Once moisture problems have been resolved, some cupped floors flatten while others will remain irreversibly distorted. When the moisture content of the top and bottom of the boards is within 1%, a floor that does not lie flat will need to be sanded. To inspect the board bottoms, drill a moisture meter through the subfloor. Do not sand the peaked edges of a floor that has been cupped too soon, or you will risk having crowned boards once the wood is completely dry.

 

Buckling and Sagging

 

Too much moisture can cause wood flooring to expand to the point that it rises off the subfloor, causing shifts to door frames and separation of floor trim from walls. A floor may sag because of a flood, a moist basement, or from being installed when it was too dry. In any event, moisture is the primary cause of buckling and sagging.

 

Proper fastening can help prevent buckling and sagging. Nails should be the right size and spaced correctly. Using the proper size trowel during glue-down installations can help ensure a strong bond between the floors and the subfloor. Poor fastening can make buckling and sagging problems worse.

 

Some buckled floorboards can be refastened, but some need to be taken out. When feasible, reuse floorboards, but if the tongues and grooves are broken or the boards are damaged, you must replace them. Do not attempt to restore buckled flooring until moisture problems have been resolved and the moisture content of the floorboards and subfloor is at the proper level.

 

Cracks

 

Compared to other types of flooring, factory-finished wood floors have more cracks, and a wood flooring nailer can easily ruin the finish on these boards. Most manufacturers produce adapters for their nailers that prevent the force of the nailer from concentrating on the surface of the floorboards.

 

Boards with a severely damaged edges should be immediately replaced during installation.

 

The faces of floorboards, whether factory-finished or normal, can develop cracks. Checks in the wood are usually to blame for this damage. Some species of wood are more prone checking and cracking than others.

 

Manufacturers can also cause cracking if the kiln dries the wood too soon. A manufacturer repair kit, which normally consists of wood filler, colored marker, and a bottle of finish, can be used to fix factory-finished boards.  To ensure that the colors, tones, and sheen are exactly matched, replace the board, or fix the crack with wood filler before applying a layer of finish to the entire floor.

 

Follow these suggestions to resolve problems that diminish the beauty of wood floors or cause long-term damage. A properly installed and maintained wood floor can last a lifetime.

Does Terrazzo Contain Asbestos and is it dangerous to restore or maintain?

 

Does Terrazzo Contain Asbestos and is it dangerous to restore or maintain?

By Frederick M. Hueston, Stone Forensics

 

There are millions of square feet of terrazzo floors throughout the US and the world. I have had several calls in recent year from terrazzo refinishing contractors that are concerned with asbestos exposure when working with terrazzo. The following explains the dangers as well as how to safely restore and maintain terrazzo

Asbestos Exposure

First lets take a look at what asbestos is and how one becomes exposed.

When asbestos fibers as small as a human hair become airborne, asbestos exposure occurs. The hazardous mineral dust can linger in the air for hours, posing a risk to anyone nearby who breathes it in or consumes it.

Asbestos fibers may take 48 to 72 hours to settle in a setting with few disturbances. The dust is so light that if it is disturbed, it can readily become airborne once more.

Asbestos exposure in Terrazzo

Terrazzo that was poured before the 1980’s may contain asbestos and for this reason it is recommended that it be tested for asbestos before any abrasives are used on it.  Even though the abrasives are used wet it can still produce asbestos fibers in the air. It is still possible to grind and hone asbestos containing terrazzo but will require the services of an asbestos abatement company. This will involve workers wearing fully equipped hazmat suits and will also require the area to be sealed off as well as the use of HEPA filter vacuums etc.

Maintenance of Asbestos Containing Terrazzo

Maintaining a terrazzo floor that contains asbestos is another story and as long as no abrasives are used, maintenance is simple and won’t expose you or anyone to these harmful fibers.  If a floor finish is used it serves to contain the asbestos, however the current trend in terrazzo refinishing is to place a highly reflective shine on the floor though diamond abrasives. If this is the case than asbestos abatement practices will be necessary.  Once the terrazzo is polished or a coating is placed on it the following maintenance program will be applicable:

Daily Maintenance

The three most important tasks that can be done on a daily basis to keep the terrazzo looking new and extending the time before restoration is required are: Dust Mop, Dust Mop and Dust Mop.  The most destructive material to most terrazzo is sand, dirt and miscellaneous grit.  If these substances could be eliminated, maintenance of the terrazzo would be almost non-existent.  A terrazzo floor can never be dust mopped too often.  Use a clean, non-treated, dry dust mop at least two to three times a day in high traffic areas and less often in low traffic areas.  Walk off mats placed outside and inside an entrance will also eliminate a good portion of sand, dirt and grit.  It takes approximately seven steps to remove all loose dirt from the bottom of ones shoes. Walk off mats also need to be removed and cleaned daily. Keep this in mind when purchasing walk off mats.  Remember if sand, dirt and grit are eliminated there will be nothing left behind to scratch and dull the terrazzo. This will also keep any abrasive grit from releasing asbestos into the air.

                                                   

Cleaning

All terrazzo, both polished and unpolished should be cleaned daily in high traffic areas and less often in lower traffic areas.  A clean rayon or cotton string mop should be used with cold to warm water with the addition of a quality Green Approved neutral cleaner or stone soap. Approved Green Neutral cleaners are defined as surfactant type detergents that have a Ph of 7.  Acidic and alkaline cleaners should not be used.  Be sure to follow the directions very carefully. 

If the area is large an auto scrubber can also be used with the same neutral cleaner and a soft brush or pad.

 

Maintaining Terrazzo that contains asbestos is simple and top rule to follow is to avoid any abrasives.

 

 

Frederick M. Hueston

Stone Forensics

E-Mail: Fhueston@stoneforensics.com

Web Site: www.stoneforensics.com

 References

 

https://ehss.syr.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/GD-14-Common-Asbestos-Containing-Materials-from-CR56.pdf

 

https://www.asbestos.qld.gov.au/sites/default/files/asbestos-flooring.pdf?v=1553738546

https://www.colorado.edu/ehs/sites/default/files/attached-files/cu_asbestos_om_program_.pdf

https://facilities.uw.edu/partner-resources/files/media/asbestos-om.pdf

https://afd.calpoly.edu/ehs/docs/asbc_97a.pdf

https://allthingsflooring.com/2018/04/asbestos-safety/

https://www.asbestos.com/wp-content/uploads/Asbestos-Guide-by-The-Mesothelioma-Center.pdf

https://network.aia.org/communities/community-home/digestviewer/viewthread?GroupId=115&MessageKey=c7fa5e8f-c5a0-4f3c-b6fa-7c54709f10ed&CommunityKey=97be49ce-260b-4cbe-8635-511aa3e87715&tab=digestviewer&ReturnUrl=%2Fcommunities%2Fcommunity-home%2Fdigestviewer%3FCommunityKey%3D97be49ce-260b-4cbe-8635-511aa3e87715