Become a Stone and Tile Consultant and Earn Over $250 per Hour

 

Become a Stone and Tile Consultant and Earn Over $250 per Hour

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Are you a tile installer, stone restoration contractor or someone that provides physically demanding stone and tile services? Is your back giving out? Do your knees hurt? Do you have trouble getting up? Are you concerned about of all those aches and pains now and in your future? Or maybe you are just looking for new ways to capitalize on your hard-earned years of experience.

Become a forensic stone and tile inspector and expert witness and make as much as $250/hr or more sharing your knowledge and experience. The number of failures, poor installations and other issues with stone and tile flooring are on the rise and the demand for experts is greater now than ever.

Many years ago, I fell into the stone and tile consulting business by accident. One day I received a call from someone who wanted me to look at a stone tile installation that was failing. The tile was popping up all over the place. They told me they needed someone to do an inspection of the problem and find a cause for the failure. I told them I could take a look at it, but in my mind, I had no idea what to charge. After some research I told them I could look at it and provide an opinion for about $500. They didn’t hesitate. I drove about 30 minutes out of town, and it took me less than 30 minutes to identify what the problem was. It was just a poor installation. I spent a total of and hour and half and made the most money I had ever made in that amount of time. Suddenly, a light bulb went off and I thought, I wonder if I can do this for a living? Well 20 years later I am making a good living doing just that. No more painful time on my knees, no employees, no payroll, and the only equipment I need is testing meters. Now I am consistently earning over $250 per hour—and many times as much as $3500—for one single inspection.

After providing inspections for the last twenty years, I have come up with a comprehensive course that can teach you the same thing that has taken me nearly all my life to learn.

Stone Forensics’ Stone and Tile Troubleshooting and Inspection Workshop will teach you about stone and tile failures, how to troubleshoot, and how to leverage your expertise to offer consultation, professional troubleshooting and inspection, as well as expert witness services and soon you too can be generating a great income just for your knowledge.

All you need to qualify is to have experience in the stone and tile industry and willingness to learn. For more info check out https://stoneforensics.com/em_event/stone-and-tile-troubleshooting-and-inspection-workshop/

Is Acid Rain Ruining my Stone

 

Is Acid Rain Ruining my Stone

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Many of us have heard the stories on the news about how acid rain can affect our waterways, potentially killing fish and plants and destroying the environment. But what about your exterior stone surfaces? Are Pool decks, sidewalks and buildings made of stone affected by acid rain. The simple answer is yes but let’s explore a little deeper.

 

What is acid rain?

Any type of precipitation that contains acidic elements, such as sulfuric or nitric acid, that falls to the ground from the atmosphere in wet or dry forms is referred to as acid rain, also known as acid deposition. Rain, snow, fog, hail, and even acidic dust might fall under this category

When sulfur dioxide (SO2) and nitrogen oxides (NOX) are released into the atmosphere and carried by wind and air currents, acid rain is the result. Nitric and sulfuric acids are created when the SO2 and NOX react with water, oxygen, and other substances. Then, before hitting the ground, they combine with water and other substances.

So, what causes acid rain?

fossil fuels are burned to produce electricity. Electric power generators are responsible for two thirds of the SO2 and one fourth of the NOX in the environment.

vehicles and large machinery.

businesses like manufacturing and oil refineries.

Acid rain is an issue for everyone, not just those who live close to these sources because winds can carry SO2 and NOX over large distances and across borders.

 

How does acid rain affect stone surfaces

First you need to know that marble and limestone and the most susceptible to acid rain. Granite and sandstone are resistant. Marble and limestone are made up primarily of calcium carbonate. This mineral easily dissolves in acid solutions. So, you can imagine if the rainwater that is exposed to these surfaces would dissolve the calcium carbonate. The result produces a rough surface on the stone and over time can even cause the stone to break apart and even turn to powder.

You could anticipate that acid precipitation wouldn't harm protected sections of stone home and buildings. However, protected portions of limestone and marble exhibit blackened crusts that, in some locations, have spalled (peeled off), exposing deteriorating stone beneath. Gypsum, a mineral created by the interaction of calcite, water, and sulfuric acid, makes up the majority of this black crust. Gypsum can form anywhere on carbonate stone surfaces that are exposed to sulfur dioxide gas (SO2) and is soluble in water; however, it is typically washed away. It only persists on covered areas that are not directly wet by rain. Gypsum is white, but the networks that form between the crystals capture dirt and impurities, giving the crust a black appearance. What this means is that even exterior stone not directly exposed to the weather can also be affected.

How do I protect Marble and Limestone from Acid Rain?

 

The answer is not that simple. There is protective coating that can be applied that will resist the acidity however coating any stone in an exterior can cause other problems.  See my article on how sealing exterior stone can be detrimental. If you suspect acid rain maybe the cause of your stone deterioration, then a stone consultant should be called in to evaluate the installation and possibly suggest a remedy. Don’t be surprised if that remedy is to replace the stone.

Common Wood Floor Failures

 

Common Wood Floor Failures

 

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Natural wood floors add special warmth to a space and can increase the value of a home or business. However, with that said, wood floors are not flawless, and problems can arise that distract from their beauty. Some of these problems can result in long-term damage. All wood floors eventually deteriorate, but if they show signs of deterioration after just a few years, then it is likely that either something went wrong during the installation or that the floor was not properly maintained. This article is a brief guide to some of the most common issues with wood flooring and how to avoid or repair them.

 

Improper Prep Before and During Finish Application

 

Before a finish is placed, the floor must be properly sanded and cleaned to receive the finish. If not, the finish tends to peel. In addition, the finish must be abraded and cleaned in between coats, and adequate drying time allowed before a topcoat is applied. Failure to do any of these things can result in the finish peeling.

 

Improper Wood Floor Sanding

 

Improperly sanded floors have sanding grooves that are problematic to finish application. Wood floor finish settles at the bottom of these sanding grooves, but the tops of the grooves receive little to no finish. Consequently, surface deteriorates when the floor is exposed to foot traffic. To avoid this problem, try sanding bare boards to either 100 or 120 grit, depending on the finish.

 

Pay attention to the sanding materials you use in between coats of finish. Old abrasive screens or sanding pads can cause unattractive scratches that resemble spider webs on a wood floor. Additional finishes can accentuate these flaws. By the time you finish the job, poor sanding will be very obvious. To eliminate these scratches, the finish must be sanded past the coat where the scratches were first produced. Unfortunately, it can be challenging or even impossible to determine which coat of finish is scratched, so your best bet would be to start over and completely refinish the floor.

 

For proper wood floor sanding, sand between each finish application with high-quality abrasive pads that produce smaller, less apparent, and more numerous scratches. A suitable scratch pattern can greatly improve adhesion between finish applications. When sanding oil-based polyurethanes, use 150- to 180-grit pads, and when sanding between applications of water-based finishes, use 220-grit pads.

 

For the best finish, use the best sandpaper.

 

Inadequate Wood Floor Finish Drying Time

If coats of finish are added too quickly, the finish could take up to six months to cure. The result will be a wood floor with an aged appearance. Be sure to allow adequate drying time between finish applications.

 

Improper Wood Floor Maintenance

 

Thoroughly polished and sanded wood floors will need periodic professional services in order to maintain a pristine, welcoming appearance. Damage to the finish can happen in numerous ways. Grit on wood floors behaves like sandpaper with foot traffic. Unprotected furniture feet or unclipped pet nails can severely damage a finish, as well. Sometimes re-coating a slightly worn floor without completely removing the original finish can dramatically improve the appearance of the floor. On the other hand, it is better to sand down a floor to bare wood and refinish it if it has significant wear and severe scratches.

 

Other Common Problems

Other common problems with wood floors include peeling, grit and foreign particles in the finish, finish droplets, stains, gaps, cupping, buckling/sagging, and cracks. Let's take a look at each of them.

 

Peeling

 

The most frequent source of peeling is excess stain that is not removed from the floor before applying finish. Remove excess stain no later than three minutes after it has been applied and allow the floor to completely dry before applying the finish to avoid a buildup of stain residue. Don't use several applications of stain too quickly. Allow it to dry.

 

Other causes of peeling include using finishes that are incompatible with each other or applying finishes to burnished wood, that is, wood that has become too smooth because of high-grit over-sanding.

 

When a floor peels, the best solution is to sand the floor down to the bare wood and start over. The issue might not be resolved by simply abrading the floor and applying a fresh topcoat, because furniture polishes, waxes, and oils used to clean wood floors can soak into the pores of the finish and may hinder new finish from successfully adhering.

 

Grit and Foreign Particles

 

Wet paint functions like a sizable piece of flypaper. Once the finish is complete, any dust or animal hair that gets inside of it will be more noticeable. Clean every surface in the room, including light fixtures and walls, before finishing the floor to keep debris from damaging the finish. Sweep the floor and wipe it down with a tack cloth, but never use tack cloths made for use on automobiles. They can have silicone in them, which jeopardizes the finish.

 

Line your applicator tray with an inside-out garbage bag. Strain the finish before being pouring it into the applicator. Finally, carefully wash and vacuum the applicator to eliminate any remaining loose fibers.

 

In the event that some debris penetrates the finish, make repairs by sanding the floor between applications of finish and then painting the floor with a fresh topcoat.

 

Finish Droplets

 

Moisture is always to blame when tiny polyurethane droplets collect around the borders of each floorboard. The polyurethane that flows into the spaces between the floorboards as the floor moves is what causes the droplets. This issue typically arises when a floor is being finished during the transition between dry and humid seasons. The boards expand as they acclimatize to the weather, pushing any uncured polyurethane out of the gap.

 

Poly droplets can be eliminated with a razor blade, a rag, and floor cleaner if they are discovered in time. If a mess has already been formed, either from walking on the droplets or from allowing them to dry, then each droplet must be manually removed with a razor blade from the floor before the entire surface is abraded in order to prepare for a new topcoat.

 

Stains

 

The most common cause of wood floor stains is pet accidents, although water can also be very destructive. A wood-floor cleanser can typically remove stains that have accumulated on a floor finish, but stains that have penetrated the wood surface must be sanded off. Stains that seep into the wood fibers are the most challenging to remove.

 

Two-part wood bleach can be used to restore the surface of a stained wood floor. Bleach the entire floor, not just a portion of it. (This requires a lot more work but results in a floor with a uniform gloss and hue.) After a couple of hours, neutralize the floor, and once it has dried, it can be sanded and refinished. Deeply soiled floorboards, particularly those that have been affected by pet urine, are typically replaced. However, removing stains with two-part wood bleach can also work.

 

This stain removal method comes with some negative aspects. The tendency of bleach to break down wood fibers can make wood more prone to denting. Additionally, there is no guarantee that the bleach will completely remove the stains from the wood, so wood flooring or floorboards may still need to be replaced.

 

Gaps

 

Wood flooring is susceptible to shifting. Properly installed floorboards will hold tightly together during the humid seasons of the year and may show gaps during the dry seasons. The installation of flooring in overly dry places can also result in abnormal gaps, which are typically caused by the flooring being too moist when it is put in place. Examples include regions that receive a lot of sunlight, floorboards installed directly over heating ducts, and houses heated by wood stoves, which produce a dry indoor environment.

 

Gaps can be an aesthetic problem and should be fixed anytime they detract from the appearance of the entire floor. Fix abnormal gaps during the wettest season of the year when gaps are the smallest. Closing gaps when they are at their widest could result in a floor that buckles due to insufficient space for expansion.

 

Finally, never fill gaps with wood filler. Instead, use wood glue to attach small pieces of wood to the floorboard borders to create a repair. To avoid gluing any boards together, take care to just apply glue to one side of the sliver.

 

Cupping

 

A board's edges cup when the bottom is wetter than the top. The most frequent cause of cupping is the installation of flooring over a damp basement or crawlspace. Although cupping is more likely to occur on wide plank flooring, it can also occur on strip flooring.

 

Vapor retarders can improve the situation by reducing the rate of moisture migration but should not be considered a long-term fix for moisture issues. For strip flooring laid over traditionally constructed floors, use a vapor retarder. On floors over slabs, install broad plank flooring, or install radiant heating.

 

Once moisture problems have been resolved, some cupped floors flatten while others will remain irreversibly distorted. When the moisture content of the top and bottom of the boards is within 1%, a floor that does not lie flat will need to be sanded. To inspect the board bottoms, drill a moisture meter through the subfloor. Do not sand the peaked edges of a floor that has been cupped too soon, or you will risk having crowned boards once the wood is completely dry.

 

Buckling and Sagging

 

Too much moisture can cause wood flooring to expand to the point that it rises off the subfloor, causing shifts to door frames and separation of floor trim from walls. A floor may sag because of a flood, a moist basement, or from being installed when it was too dry. In any event, moisture is the primary cause of buckling and sagging.

 

Proper fastening can help prevent buckling and sagging. Nails should be the right size and spaced correctly. Using the proper size trowel during glue-down installations can help ensure a strong bond between the floors and the subfloor. Poor fastening can make buckling and sagging problems worse.

 

Some buckled floorboards can be refastened, but some need to be taken out. When feasible, reuse floorboards, but if the tongues and grooves are broken or the boards are damaged, you must replace them. Do not attempt to restore buckled flooring until moisture problems have been resolved and the moisture content of the floorboards and subfloor is at the proper level.

 

Cracks

 

Compared to other types of flooring, factory-finished wood floors have more cracks, and a wood flooring nailer can easily ruin the finish on these boards. Most manufacturers produce adapters for their nailers that prevent the force of the nailer from concentrating on the surface of the floorboards.

 

Boards with a severely damaged edges should be immediately replaced during installation.

 

The faces of floorboards, whether factory-finished or normal, can develop cracks. Checks in the wood are usually to blame for this damage. Some species of wood are more prone checking and cracking than others.

 

Manufacturers can also cause cracking if the kiln dries the wood too soon. A manufacturer repair kit, which normally consists of wood filler, colored marker, and a bottle of finish, can be used to fix factory-finished boards.  To ensure that the colors, tones, and sheen are exactly matched, replace the board, or fix the crack with wood filler before applying a layer of finish to the entire floor.

 

Follow these suggestions to resolve problems that diminish the beauty of wood floors or cause long-term damage. A properly installed and maintained wood floor can last a lifetime.

Does Terrazzo Contain Asbestos and is it dangerous to restore or maintain?

 

Does Terrazzo Contain Asbestos and is it dangerous to restore or maintain?

By Frederick M. Hueston, Stone Forensics

 

There are millions of square feet of terrazzo floors throughout the US and the world. I have had several calls in recent year from terrazzo refinishing contractors that are concerned with asbestos exposure when working with terrazzo. The following explains the dangers as well as how to safely restore and maintain terrazzo

Asbestos Exposure

First lets take a look at what asbestos is and how one becomes exposed.

When asbestos fibers as small as a human hair become airborne, asbestos exposure occurs. The hazardous mineral dust can linger in the air for hours, posing a risk to anyone nearby who breathes it in or consumes it.

Asbestos fibers may take 48 to 72 hours to settle in a setting with few disturbances. The dust is so light that if it is disturbed, it can readily become airborne once more.

Asbestos exposure in Terrazzo

Terrazzo that was poured before the 1980’s may contain asbestos and for this reason it is recommended that it be tested for asbestos before any abrasives are used on it.  Even though the abrasives are used wet it can still produce asbestos fibers in the air. It is still possible to grind and hone asbestos containing terrazzo but will require the services of an asbestos abatement company. This will involve workers wearing fully equipped hazmat suits and will also require the area to be sealed off as well as the use of HEPA filter vacuums etc.

Maintenance of Asbestos Containing Terrazzo

Maintaining a terrazzo floor that contains asbestos is another story and as long as no abrasives are used, maintenance is simple and won’t expose you or anyone to these harmful fibers.  If a floor finish is used it serves to contain the asbestos, however the current trend in terrazzo refinishing is to place a highly reflective shine on the floor though diamond abrasives. If this is the case than asbestos abatement practices will be necessary.  Once the terrazzo is polished or a coating is placed on it the following maintenance program will be applicable:

Daily Maintenance

The three most important tasks that can be done on a daily basis to keep the terrazzo looking new and extending the time before restoration is required are: Dust Mop, Dust Mop and Dust Mop.  The most destructive material to most terrazzo is sand, dirt and miscellaneous grit.  If these substances could be eliminated, maintenance of the terrazzo would be almost non-existent.  A terrazzo floor can never be dust mopped too often.  Use a clean, non-treated, dry dust mop at least two to three times a day in high traffic areas and less often in low traffic areas.  Walk off mats placed outside and inside an entrance will also eliminate a good portion of sand, dirt and grit.  It takes approximately seven steps to remove all loose dirt from the bottom of ones shoes. Walk off mats also need to be removed and cleaned daily. Keep this in mind when purchasing walk off mats.  Remember if sand, dirt and grit are eliminated there will be nothing left behind to scratch and dull the terrazzo. This will also keep any abrasive grit from releasing asbestos into the air.

                                                   

Cleaning

All terrazzo, both polished and unpolished should be cleaned daily in high traffic areas and less often in lower traffic areas.  A clean rayon or cotton string mop should be used with cold to warm water with the addition of a quality Green Approved neutral cleaner or stone soap. Approved Green Neutral cleaners are defined as surfactant type detergents that have a Ph of 7.  Acidic and alkaline cleaners should not be used.  Be sure to follow the directions very carefully. 

If the area is large an auto scrubber can also be used with the same neutral cleaner and a soft brush or pad.

 

Maintaining Terrazzo that contains asbestos is simple and top rule to follow is to avoid any abrasives.

 

 

Frederick M. Hueston

Stone Forensics

E-Mail: Fhueston@stoneforensics.com

Web Site: www.stoneforensics.com

 References

 

https://ehss.syr.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/GD-14-Common-Asbestos-Containing-Materials-from-CR56.pdf

 

https://www.asbestos.qld.gov.au/sites/default/files/asbestos-flooring.pdf?v=1553738546

https://www.colorado.edu/ehs/sites/default/files/attached-files/cu_asbestos_om_program_.pdf

https://facilities.uw.edu/partner-resources/files/media/asbestos-om.pdf

https://afd.calpoly.edu/ehs/docs/asbc_97a.pdf

https://allthingsflooring.com/2018/04/asbestos-safety/

https://www.asbestos.com/wp-content/uploads/Asbestos-Guide-by-The-Mesothelioma-Center.pdf

https://network.aia.org/communities/community-home/digestviewer/viewthread?GroupId=115&MessageKey=c7fa5e8f-c5a0-4f3c-b6fa-7c54709f10ed&CommunityKey=97be49ce-260b-4cbe-8635-511aa3e87715&tab=digestviewer&ReturnUrl=%2Fcommunities%2Fcommunity-home%2Fdigestviewer%3FCommunityKey%3D97be49ce-260b-4cbe-8635-511aa3e87715

 

 

Will Robots Replace People in Stone and Tile Trades?

Most people are familiar with the Jetsons, a cartoon featuring 20th century futurism, and how almost everything in the show was automated, from coffee makers to self-driving, flying cars. Today, real-life advances in technology are eerily reminiscent of the world of the Jetsons. We've got voice-activated appliances, computer-controlled robots pack and move goods, writing robots are generating stories that used to be written by journalists, and autonomous drones have been replacing humans in the military and in the distribution sector. Robots have replaced chefs, surgeons, postal workers, and many other jobs. Will stone and tile setters, restoration contractors, and fabricators eventually be replaced with automation and robots? Some of this automation is already here. Let's take a look at the latest automated technologies in the stone and tile industry and have a little fun speculating about what might come next.

Stone Countertop Fabrication

Many fabricator shops are already fully automated. With advancements in CNC technology, many saw operators and polishers have been replaced. Material handling, such as loading of slabs, can be accomplished with automation. Even extracting the stone from the quarry can be automated. Although this automation replaces skilled fabricators, it also creates opportunities for other jobs, such as computer programmers.

Stone Restoration

If you think that it would be difficult to replace stone floor technicians who clean or polish floors with robots, then you may be stuck in the stone age. There are now programable floor machines and auto scrubbers that can operate without an operator. 

As of yet, there are still some tasks that cannot be performed by robots, such as making judgment calls about selecting the most appropriate products, tools, and methods. Performing delicate or highly customized restoration work may always require the precision of a craftsperson. Who knows what the future holds?

Stone and Tile Setters

One might think that tile setters could never be replaced. How could a robot ever install a bathroom shower, which requires detailed waterproofing and tile setting knowledge and skills? In recent years, companies have developed some amazing technologies. For example, SurePods(surepods.com) manufacturers complete bathroom pods that include a sink, vanity, shower, and toilet all in one unit manufactured with CNC machines. Each unit is lifted into a building, then the plumbing and electrical are hooked up, and BADA-BING, it's ready for use.

Stone Carvers

Can automation replace art? It sure can. CNC machines are already being programed to carve stone to the exact copy of famous sculptures, such as the Venus De Milo. Also large, 3D printers are already widely used. They are even capable of building a home.

Future generations will see more and more automation being introduced to the stone and tile industry. A study by Midwest Economic Policy Institute (MEPI) estimates that by 2057, robots could replace or displace 2.7 million jobs in construction. There is no need to hang up your trowel or put away your floor machine just yet, but you have been warned. The Jetsons era has arrived.

By Frederick M. Hueston

Is Natural Stone the Right Choice for your Home

 

Is Natural Stone the Right Choice for your Home

By Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

 

This last year has seen a large increase in the number of people having natural stone, marble, granite, limestone, sandstone or slate fitted into their homes either as work surfaces or as flooring. No man-made product can rival the beauty of well-presented natural stone with its myriad of colors and patterns which are unique to your individual stone.

With this increased interest in returning to natural stone products has come an avalanche of products to clean, shine and seal the stones. Importers, tile retailers, builders and chemical firms have all jumped on the band wagon and see big profits in natural stone. Unfortunately, it would seem that very few of these companies have any understanding of the products they are selling or fitting or advising customers to purchase.

In the past most of my calls was concerned with restoring old marble, granite or limestone but increasingly I am getting called out to deal with brand new tiles which have developed problems.

Some of these problems are;

Tiles being laid so that there is significant lippage between them
Grouting gaps being too large
Tiles smeared with grout after sealing
Incorrect sealant being used
Acrylic sealants being applied
Polish or wax being applied to the surface
Marble and limestone being used in kitchens
Slate being used in showers
Not sealing the stone
Applying a seal and then assuming that it is now protected from all possible sources of damage
Discoloration of the tiles because sealant is left on the surface
Use of acidic cleaners in the builders clean
Poor or non existent care and maintenance programs provided to the client

How do you ensure you are not left with a big bill after the builders have moved out?

Buy your tiles from a supplier that provides good advice and has an installation service,
Research the topic prior to purchase so that you can ask pertinent questions. If you get suspect or glib answers walk away and shop elsewhere
Do not simply go for the cheapest, they may prove to more expensive in the long run
If possible retain some of the money until the job is completed to your satisfaction. That way if there is a problem you can insist on it being rectified.

Your biggest protection is to get acquainted with the properties of natural stone and its care and maintenance before setting out to purchase your preferred stone type. You can do this by carrying out the appropriate search on the Web.

 

Slate tile flooring dos and don’ts

 

Slate tile flooring dos and don’ts

By Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

 

Slate tile flooring is available in a wide variety of colors. You can choose from green, pink, blue and yellow shades. You may also go for natural surface textures of slate tile flooring and these textures come in different variety. The flooring is slip-resistant and hence makes a premium choice for most people across the globe.

Slate tile flooring is ideal for residential and commercial interiors and exteriors. It is easy to install and available with decorative color variation and slip-resistance quality.

Here are some do’s and don’ts you need to keep in mind with slate tile flooring.

Do’s:

a)         You should be sure of the fact that area in which you desire to install your slate tile flooring is apt for the climate, foot traffic and other important factors. A sales representative will be able to help you in this matter.

b)         It is very important to consider the substrate over which you wish to install the slate tiles. The tile should suit your requirements. You should always ask your sales representative about the suitability of your substrate with respect to the slate tile product you wish to purchase.

c)         You must expect color variations when it comes to slate tile flooring and utilize them to your advantage.

d)         It is necessary to keep yourself informed with the warranty details. Try to read all the instructions or information related to the slate tile flooring purchase.

e)         Before making a purchase, test the color patterns, thickness variation and overall spacing of the slate you choose via laying out the slate in a dry run.

f)         You require using a special type of mortar for slate tile. The mortar should be compatible to your interior and exterior installation. Try taking expert advice from sales representative about some brands and varieties of mortar available on the market. You should never forget to read the instructions available on the products you plan to purchase.

g)         Slate tile flooring sealant is very important. You can choose from several varieties available such a high-gloss sealant that provides the tile a lustrous look, low sheen that is reflective and no sheen that provides slate a natural look.

h)         You should look forward to consult an experienced flooring professional in case, you don’t have any experience in laying slate tile all by yourself. This will also help you stay miles away from mistakes that may make your wallet lighter.

 

Don’ts:

a)         Never ever forget to allow for breakage and waste while placing your order. Remember that accidents can happen anytime.

b)         You should not fail to supervise your substrate for dirt or loose materials. A clear, clean and level substrate is very important for a perfect slate tile flooring installation.

c)         Don’t install slate tile flooring on a wet surface. The moisture trapped on the surface may make installation difficult for you.

d)         Don’t apply a sealer to a slate tile floor that has been oiled or waxed and not cured. The marks can prove to be very difficult to remove later.

e)         Grouting soon is not a good idea. Always allow the mortar to properly set.

 

Keywords:

Jack multicolor slate supplier and exporter, Lime green slate supplier and exporter, M Green south slate supplier and exporter, etc.