How to install a Ceramic Tile Shower Pan Membrane

 

How to install a Ceramic Tile Shower Pan Membrane

by Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

 

Building a Custom Ceramic Tile Shower starts with a Shower Pan Membrane Liner

Installing a custom ceramic tile shower in your home is something a do it yourself homeowner can do with a little upfront knowledge. The most important aspect of a successful custom ceramic tile shower installation is properly installing a shower pan membrane liner. The shower pan membrane liner is used to ensure a leak-proof shower.

Shower pan membrane liners are used to funnel any water that seeps through the floor or wall grout to the shower drain below. The shower pan membrane liner is made up of a flexible type of plastic material that sits below a bed of mortar, and the tile, in the shower floor area.

Prior to installing the shower pan membrane liner, the floor of the shower needs to be pre-sloped to ensure that the water will flow towards the shower drain assembly. The pre-slope is accomplished by applying a layer of mortar to the floor of the shower unit area. The layer of mortar is troweled in such as way as to create a gentle slope from the shower wall edges to the center of the shower where the drain resides.

Once the pre-slope mortar has cured, the flexible shower pan membrane liner can then be installed. There are a couple of types of shower pan membrane liners on the market, with each having their own benefits. With either type of membrane, the homeowner needs to form and fold the material into the base of the shower area and secure it to the sides of the shower wall frame with staples and/or nails. In addition, an opening in the membrane should be cut out to allow the adjustable shower drain assembly to slip through.

With the shower pan membrane installed, the cementitious ceramic tile backerboard can then be secured to the framed shower walls. The backerboard is a rigid material that is ideal for attaching tile in wet areas such as a shower stall.

After installing the ceramic tile backerboard, a final coat of mortar needs to be applied on top of the membrane to protect it and to provide a solid base for laying the ceramic floor tile.

With the final coat of mortar cured, the ceramic tile can then be installed in the shower.

Once the tile and grout have been installed, the shower drain assembly should be adjusted so that the drain height sits flush with the finished ceramic tile floor.

For more information on installing a shower pan membrane liner, see the Shower Pan Membrane Liner Installation EBook from HomeAdditionPlus.com. The Shower Pan Membrane Liner EBook will quickly teach you the step-by-step process for installing the shower pan membrane liner correctly. It includes instructions on framing the shower stall, pouring the pre-slope and shower base mortar, and installing the shower pan membrane liner.

 

Ceramic Mural Tile: Take A Closer Look

 

Ceramic Mural Tile: Take A Closer Look

By Frederick M. Hueston  www.stoneforensics.com

 

From its beginnings in 13th century Morocco, ceramic mural tile has been a staple in American design and decor. Although ceramic tile making was a craft known to the Egyptian, Chinese, and Babylonian ancients, the methods of its creation that we employ today stem directly from those early Moroccan artisans of ceramic mural tile.

Although ceramic mural tile goes through phases of popularity, its appeal reached an apex during the Arts & Crafts movement, which endured until the 1920s. Because of the current resurgence of interest in the Arts & Crafts period, ceramic mural tile has once again experienced a surge in status among designers, decorators, and, of course, ceramic mural tile artisans.

Learning the craft of making ceramic mural tile takes more than an inherent artistic talent. It also entails becoming educated about such things as different clays, paints, firing techniques, kilns and other firing equipment, and a host of minute details only someone truly committed to the task would undergo. Most serious ceramic tile artisans spend a lifetime not only fine-tuning their craft, but constantly searching for means and methods of improving their techniques and learning about the latest and best processes necessary for creating quality ceramic mural tile for their patrons.

An awareness of the length of time and the commitment necessary to learn the techniques of creating high-quality ceramic mural tile makes it easier to understand the sometimes eyebrow-raising prices these artisans require. Most of them with reputations for superior work ask for and get sixty dollars or more per hour to create custom ceramic mural tile offerings for customers with specialized requests.

So the next time you see a gorgeous, hand painted ceramic mural tile example, keep some things in mind. When one considers the history of the craft, the hours and hours spent learning and perfecting it, and then the actual creation of ceramic mural tile, the price suddenly comes into perspective. You may even come to think of that painstakingly rendered ceramic mural tile you have hanging in your home for just what it is almost priceless!

 

How to Stain Your Concrete Floor

 

How to Stain Your Concrete Floor

By Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

 

Acid staining can make a common concrete floor into look like expensive natural stone flooring. Not only is it a fraction of the price, but for people allergic to carpeting materials its a godsend. Another great application is in houses with radiant floor heating. Radiant heating is at its most efficient when insulating floor coverings like tile or carpet are minimized.

The process of staining a concrete floor, while not overly complex, can be tough to get the results you want from. Most folks are probably better off hiring a professional contractor. Its a risky project for the do-it-yourselfer.

If youre not familiar with it, concrete stain isnt a paint or finish coat. It involves a chemical reaction on cement materials. Typically a water-based solution of hydrochloric acid and inorganic salts, the stain reacts with minerals and lime in the concrete aggregate, and the result of the reaction is coloring. It works on new or old concrete, and is fairly durable if you maintain it with sealer or wax, since it wont stain or chip. It can also be applied to both interiors and exterior floors. Walkways, bathrooms, entrances, driveways, living rooms and patios are all fair game.

When its finished, stained concrete looks a little like marble, but more dappled and less uniform. The concrete will mostly be earthy brown tones, with hints of red and green. Its possible to make your own tint stain by mixing colors, or applying at dissimilar rates. When you stain a concrete floor, though, dont expect the stain to be uniform or have an even tone. Plan your room decor and color scheme accordingly, because you’ll get dissimilar reactions from different areas of the concrete, and even a seasoned pro will be hard pressed to predict what the final result will be.

Surface prep for acid staining concrete depends on what condition your slab is in. Newly poured concrete only needs is be allowed time for curing- three weeks after pouring- then some rinsing and scrubbing. Older concrete is a different story. Thorough cleaning is required because any dirt, grease, paint, sealer or even curing agent will keep the stain from penetrating and reacting as it should. Do a little test area to make sure its ready.

Newer poured concrete will require less stain than older floors, but in general, a gallon of water added to one gallon of stain will cover around 400 square feet. Apply the stain with a non-metallic brush or broom, working in the cooler morning or evening hours, rather than in the heat of the day. Be careful to protect yourself from spillage, drips and fumes from the acid stain, and follow the manufacturers precautions.

After application, you need to cleanup by sweeping away any leftover stain and residue with a broom. When the floor is thoroughly dry, it is a good idea to apply a sealer agent and then wax it.

If you are in the market for natural stone flooring, a new look for your basement or patio, or just looking for new remodeling ideas, stained concrete is something you should look into.

 

What to Know Before you go Shopping for your New Flooring

 

What to Know Before you go Shopping for your New Flooring

By Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

Buying a new floor can be a frustrating and confusing process. Here’s a list of things to keep in mind before heading out to purchase your new floor.

1. Take note of the room layout.

– Draw an outline of the room or rooms. Indicate where the entrances are placed.

– Measure the room carefully and accurately with a measuring tape. Write down the width and length of a room. Remember to include closets and other areas that need the new flooring. Smaller print patterns can make the room seem a lot bigger.

– Take into account adjoining rooms and the flooring on those rooms.

– Make a note in which direction the room is facing and if there is a sliding door. Determine how much natural light enters the room. You might want to consider a laminated floor, ceramic tile or porcelain tile.

– Bring along swatches of fabrics from your furniture, curtains and wallpaper. These will help you decide on the color and style of your flooring.

2. Answer these questions to help you out in selecting the right floor for your room:

– How much foot traffic does the room get in any given day? The number of people passing or using the room would indicate the level of wear and tear the room would take. This would help you in deciding the type of flooring to get. A room with a high volume of traffic needs more durable flooring.

– What is the main function of the room? A room used mainly for leisurely activities will have less wear and tear. Delicate flooring materials can be chosen in this case.

– How many pets do you have? Pets tend to abuse the surroundings they are in, floorings maybe damage from scratching.

– How many kids do you have in the house? All the roughhousing and playing that the kids do tend to abuse the flooring. The more kids you have in the house, the more abuse your flooring will get.

– What color do you want? Remember that lighter colors make rooms seem bigger.

– How long do you want the flooring to last? We would of course like the flooring to last forever but wear and tear damages the flooring.

Eventually, it will need to be replaced or you may want to simply change the look of the room after a certain period of time.

3. How much is the flooring going to cost?

– Are the subfloor preparation part of the quoted price?

– Is the quoted price inclusive of the installation or is that a separate fee? This is a budgeting concern, you would want to know the actual amount youre going to spend.

– Is the removal of pre-existing flooring included in the quoted price.

– Is the quoted price inclusive of the moving of all appliances and furniture in the room.

– Are all the necessary materials included in the quoted price? You wouldnt want to find out during the installation that some materials are not included and that you still need to purchase more materials. That could be extremely annoying and frustrating.

4. Questions to ask the installers and the store:

– Are the installers independent, or are they store employees?

– Whose insurance will pay for installation errors?

– Are all of the materials recommended by the manufacturer so warranty will not be voided?

– Discuss with the salesperson the warranty information of the manufacturer. Keep a copy of the warranty.

– Discuss the maintenance procedure and keep a copy of the manual or brochure.

– Have everything documented including the diagram of the installation. Also, the amount of flooring needed in the room

– Ask who will be responsible for the removal of fixed features in the room, e.g. toilet.

– Always check the website of the store, if any, to give you an idea of the store. Take note of the affiliations to groups or other organizations.

It would be best to email the store in advance to have some questions answered before going there. It saves a lot of time.

– Have all the product information documented. The document should include the name of the manufacturer, product name, color, style and the installation procedure.

 

How to clean your stone shower floor

 

How to Clean Your Shower Floor

 

By Frederick M. Hueston

Chief Technical Director, SurpHaces

 

 

You just stepped in your shower and looked down and can’t believe what you see. The stone on your shower floor just doesn’t look as good as it used to. It may have a white deposit which is build-up of minerals, or it could just be scummy from body oils, skin cells, and soap and shampoo products. It’s time to break out the cleaning products and finally clean all that gunk…But which cleaner do you use that won’t harm the stone? The following is a general guide that should help you choose the proper cleaning products/solutions.

The type of cleaner you can use will depend on the type of stone you have. If your shower floor is marble or limestone (travertine is a limestone), you will want to avoid acidic cleaners. Toilet bowl cleaners, grout cleaners, vinegar, etc. are all acidic and could damage the marble surface. If you are unsure the product is acidic, read the label carefully. Most acid products will have a warning label to avoid use on marble and limestone. Granite on the other hand can tolerate mild acids without harm.

Before you start bombarding your shower floor with an arsenal of chemicals it is best to first identify the type of build-up you are dealing with.

Hard Water Deposits
These deposits are generally white and are hard to remove. They may start as a white film but over time can build up into a crusty layer. They are usually caused by the build-up of minerals in your water. The best way to remove them is with a little elbow grease at first. Try scrubbing the floor with a nylon scrub brush and a mild detergent or neutral cleaner. These cleaners are available from most home centers and grocery stores. If this doesn’t work, you will need to get more aggressive. If the floor is granite try an acidic cleaner. If marble or limestone, a heavy-duty stone cleaner or alkaline cleaner is best. If the hard water deposits are especially stubborn, I would recommend you call a PRO for a professional cleaning.

Soap Scum
Soap scum build-up can accumulate on your shower floor and can not only look unsightly but can also cause the floor to be slippery. Many store-bought scum removers are acidic and will damage marble and limestone surfaces. On granite they should be safe to use. There are several alkaline soap scum removers that are safe for marble and limestone. Check the label carefully.

Mold and Mildew
These biological growths are unsightly and can cause all kinds of problems in a shower of any type. To remove them you will need to use a mild bleach solution. Care must be taken when using bleach around stone such as marble and limestone, so it’s important to not overdo it and rinse the shower thoroughly after cleaning with any bleach or products containing bleach. A good alternative to bleach is a commercial peroxide cleaner such as any of the oxy products. They take a while to work so you may have to let the cleaner dwell for several hours to be effective.

The best way to avoid any build-up is to clean the shower floor on a regular basis. When done showering, rinse the floor with clean hot water, then squeegee the excess water. This helps a lot.

A good quality stone impregnator can help but it’s best to consult a PRO as sealing stone in wet environments could result in other issues. Avoid topical coatings which can make the floor slippery.

 

Can I Steam Clean my Stone Flooring

 

Can I use a steam cleaner on my natural stone floors?

By Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

I am often asked if I can use a steam cleaner on my natural stone floors. Steam cleaning is a very effective cleaner removing soil and containments without harsh chemicals. However, on natural stone such as marble, granite and other natural stone it can be harmful.

Since most stone is porous, the high temperature of steam cleaning can cause pressure within the stone which can lead to a condition known as spalling. Spalling is pitting and/or flaking of the stone. In addition if the stone is sealed it can remove any sealer present.  If the stone has any cracks the steam can cause them to expand and open up. Grout can also be damaged by continued use of steam cleaning if used regularly.

If your using a home type steam cleaner it may be ok to use on natural stone since these steam cleaners do not reach the temperature that a commercial steam cleaner. Home style steam cleaner range in temperature about 250 degrees F whereas commercial steam cleaners can reach temperature o f over 300 degrees F. However, these steam cleaners should not be used regularly.

There are several types of steam cleaners

Vapor steam cleaners

These cleaners look like a canister vacuum. They emit a fog of steam vapor to the surface with a wand. The temperature can reach over 200 degrees F

Steam Mops

Steam mops inject steam into a cloth mop that is used to mop the floor. Generally these are safer to use on natural stone since the temperature on the mop are less than the vapor types. They are also a good alternative to harsh chemicals.

Handheld Steam Cleaner

Handheld steam cleaners are simple to use and are good for spot cleanup and for other areas. I really don’t see a need to use these type cleaners on stone countertops or shower walls.

I would recommend that you use a neutral stone cleaner or have them professional cleaned to be on the safe side.

Natural Stone Tiles the Confusion Surrounding Sealing

 

Natural Stone Tiles the Confusion Surrounding Sealing

By Frederick M. Hueston, StoneForensics.com

 

There would seem based my own experience that there is a lot of confusion amongst the general public and some builders as to what sealing natural stone actually means.

When we talk about sealing a surface we normally mean that an impenetrable barrier is painted on or applied in some way. For example, tiled floors are often sealed to give them added protection and make them shine. To do this a series of coats of emulsion polish are applied to the surface and allowed to dry. This seals the floor and gives it protection. Other surfaces such as wood are often sealed with a coating of a polyurethane product. This adds strength to the surface and protects it. Many other normally porous surfaces can be sealed with a layer that sits on the surface acting as a barrier to penetrative agents and gives protection also.

The sealing of natural stone such as marble, granite, limestone and slate is very different. Natural stone is made up of crystals that interlock together. The actual minerals that are present as crystals in the stone give it its color and striations. However, there are spaces between the crystal and the smaller these spaces are and the more the crystals have been compacted together the less porous the stone is. So, these spaces will determine the porosity of the stone. A combination of pore size and mineral content of the stone will also determine its hardness and thus its durability. These spaces in the stone are air filled when the stone is dry and water filled when the stone is wet. Bacteria inhabit these spaces, and these are often vital for the maintenance of the stone. Very little research has been carried out into these bacteria but what has been done would suggest that they are essential in maintaining the integrity of the stone.

Consequently, we have the picture of stone as quite a complex mix of minerals, bacteria and spaces. You must imagine the stone to be something akin to a very hard sponge! If you drop a liquid onto the stone it will be absorbed and spread through the spaces. This is why what initially looked like a small spillage can end up as quite a large stain in the stone. To remove the stain it has to be flushed out of these spaces. All a stone sealer does it fill up these spaces. Many of the stone sealants in use are based on fatty acids rather than synthetic sealants. These natural sealants are better because they do not destroy the bacteria but often enhance them. Synthetic sealants will destroy these bacteria that has longer-term consequences on the stones makeup. Sealants based on fat however have a shorter lifespan and must be renewed periodically.

Whatever sealant is used it simply fills up the spaces between the crystals it does not cover the surface of the stone. Its purpose is simply to delay the penetration of liquids into the stone. So if corrosive materials get onto the stone then it will be damaged. Stone sealants do not form a protective seal on the surface of the stone. Consequently stone is only protected from absorbing liquids. It is not protected from surface damage.