Vitrified Tiles - Better than hardwood floors?

Vitrified Tiles - Better than hardwood floors?

By Frederick M. Hueston, StoneForensics.com

Vitrified tiles are beautiful and very very durable - a combination of qualities most floors do not have. Here's why they could be an alternative to most other floors.

Hardwood floors are gorgeous and add a great deal of elegance and charm to a home. But as with many things so beautiful, they are very delicate. Hardwood floors require a great deal of care and maintenance to keep them looking great. And for folks who cannot spare a lot of time to give them the required care, vitrified tiles can be a great option.

Vitrified tiles are very attractive too. And unlike hardwood floors, these are very tough - they are much harder than natural stones, and pools of water can definitely not damage them ... unlike hardwood floors.

What are vitrified tiles?

Vitrified tiles are made by combining 40% clay and 60% silica in a process called vitrification. The process of manufacture makes them extremely hard and non-porous - a great advantage over natural stones like marble which are porous and hence need a good deal of care.

Vitrified tiles are virtually maintenance free and have very good abrasion resistance - which makes them very suitable for use in high traffic areas.

And there is another huge advantage vitrified tiles have over most other floors. The designs on vitrified tiles are printed with soluble salts which are essentially penetrating pigments that penetrate to a depth of 2 to 3 mm below the surface of the tile ... and that means the design is present at depths of up to 25% of the tile's thickness! And the high hardness and abrasion resistance of vitrified tiles essentially means that the design is permanent for all practical purposes. In contrast, some floor polishes exist over the surface of the floor and have little abrasion resistance.

But on the other hand, vitrified tiles are not currently available in a great variety of shades - at least not in as many shades as natural stone tiles are.

Other advantages of vitrified tiles.

Vitrified tiles hardly expand or contract with changes in moisture and temperature - unlike other floors like wood for instance. This means that they may be used for a joint free application. But instead of a joint free application, it may be better create uniform gaps between tiles by fixing them using spacers and then filling the space with grout. This would especially be recommended when the tiles would be exposed to extremes of temperature - either very hot or very cold.

Vitrified tiles are virtually maintenance free. They may be swept clean. But still, it would be better to take a few steps to ensure that they keep looking great for several years or decades...

 Vitrified tiles - Care and cleaning

 Using a floor mat at the entrances to minimize abrasive dust being carried in by people would be a good thing to do. This would be true for any floor you may choose to have - whether stone or wood.

 You may want to avoid using cleaners with harsh chemicals to clean the floor. Since vitrified tiles are extremely hard and non porous, a damp mop may be good enough to clean the floor.

 You may also want to clean the grout joints a couple of times a year or so. Also, keeping the grout joints in good shape by scraping out cracked, loose or powdery joints and refilling them would be a good thing to do once in a while.

 Vitrified tiles can be extremely beautiful and elegant and with the right care and maintenance, can last for a lifetime.

Tile Underlayments are the Key to a Good Installation

Tile Underlayments are the Key to a Good Installation

Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

Ceramic, porcelain and stone tile material is rigid and relatively brittle, so a sturdy base is the most critical part of installing this type of tile. Unless you want to see cracked tiles, loose tiles, or loose grout, you need to select the proper underlayment. Underlayment being what the construction trade calls the layer that goes between your subfloor and your tiles.

You have several alternate ways to accomplish the strong underlayment required for ce tile installation.

Plywood- just a single layer of plywood isn’t rigid enough to stop floor deflection. It needs to be covered over with an additional layer of exterior-grade plywood to achieve a total thickness of at least 1 1/8 inch. You can either (A)- Cover the plywood with a cement backer board (more on these below) or (B) Cover the existing plywood with a second layer of exterior grade plywood. Under either of these, a thin-set mortar is applied to eliminate air gaps. Additionally, in bathrooms, it’s recommended to lay a “shower pan” over your subfloor. This refers to thin rubberized materials that protect the tile from floor expansion and contraction due to moisture, temperature and humidity.

Cement Backer Board – These are prefabricated, lightweight concrete sheets used to cover subfloors. It has a dense Portland concrete core and fiberglass surfaces both sides and is able to withstand prolonged exposure to moisture. Brand names include DUROCK, UTILICRETE, WONDERBOARD and GLASCRETE. Joints of the backer board sheets should be staggered such that they don’t fall directly over the wood subfloor joints.

Mortar Bed- Mud beds, or mortar beds, are used by professional tile contractors mostly. They’re composed of a layer of thick roofing felt, then wire mesh, followed by a layer of mortar. The reason it is used mostly by the specialists is that it takes a high level of skill and practice to ensure the mortar bed produces a sufficiently level surface. The other reason is that it is the best foundation possible for a tile floor. Okay, but why? Because the mortar bed has a built-in reinforcement against floor deflections in the form of the wire mesh. Translation- less cracked tiles and loose grout, and longer-life flooring.

Concrete Slab- You can lay your tile directly on concrete slab, but all cracks and holes need to be refurbished prior before the installation of a tile when it’s directly bonded to the concrete. Some concrete slab has been coated with curing compound to help the slab set without cracks. This compound should be removed before tile installation to ensure a long-lasting mortar bond, since the compound helps the concrete retain moisture and in some cases affects adhesiveness. It is also important that the slab be as level as possible, especially with the larger tile sizes in use today. Cleaning the concrete completely of debris and dust will also contribute to a higher quality installation. In short, preparation of the surface is key.

One other possibility is laying the tile over existing flooring. There are a few things to consider. Is your existing floor solid, flat and in good shape? Is it stuck well enough to the subfloor under it to provide support? Good. Is the existing floor linoleum or vinyl? Not so good. You need to strip it out or put a good subflooring on top of it. (And watch out for older vinyl flooring, which may contain asbestos fibers. You don’t want to strip this stuff out yourself. Instead, either cover it up with some plywood subfloor or have a contractor remove it. If you aren’t sure if your flooring has asbestos, call in a trained asbestos inspector.) If you have tile on the floor you can lay newer tile on top of it as long as it’s surface is level and not too smooth. You might need to sand the surface to let your bonding have a better chance.

In conclusion, a little planning and thought will go a long way toward making your tile installation project a long-lasting addition to your home, so take the time before you go in with “both guns blazing”.

 

What You Need to Know in Buying a New Floor

What You Need to Know in Buying a New Floor

Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

Buying a new floor can be a frustrating and confusing process. Here’s a list of things to keep in mind before heading out to purchase your new floor.

1. Take note of the room layout.

– Draw an outline of the room or rooms. Indicate where the entrances are placed.

– Measure the room carefully and accurately with a measuring tape. Write down the width and length of a room. Remember to include closets and other areas that need the new flooring. Smaller print patterns can make the room seem a lot bigger.

– Take into account adjoining rooms and the flooring on those rooms.

– Make a note in which direction the room is facing and if there is a sliding door. Determine how much natural light enters the room.

– Bring along swatches of fabrics from your furniture, curtains and wallpaper. These will help you decide on the color and style of your flooring.

2. Answer these questions to help you out in selecting the right floor for your room:

– How much foot traffic does the room get in any given day? The number of people passing or using the room would indicate the level of wear and tear the room would take. This would help you in deciding the type of flooring to get. A room with a high volume of traffic needs more durable flooring.

– What is the main function of the room? A room used mainly for leisurely activities will have less wear and tear. Delicate flooring materials can be chosen in this case.

– How many pets do you have? Pets tend to abuse the surroundings they are in, floorings maybe damage from scratching.

– How many kids do you have in the house? All the roughhousing and playing that the kids do tend to abuse the flooring. The more kids you have in the house, the more abuse your flooring will get.

– What color do you want? Remember that lighter colors make rooms seem bigger.

– How long do you want the flooring to last? We would of course like the flooring to last forever but wear and tear damages the flooring.

Eventually, it will need to be replaced or you may want to simply change the look of the room after a certain period of time.

3. How much is the flooring going to cost?

– Are the subfloor preparation part of the quoted price?

– Is the quoted price inclusive of the installation or is that a separate fee? This is a budgeting concern, you would want to know the actual amount youre going to spend.

– Is the removal of pre-existing flooring included in the quoted price.

– Is the quoted price inclusive of the moving of all appliances and furniture in the room.

– Are all the necessary materials included in the quoted price? You wouldnt want to find out during the installation that some materials are not included and that you still need to purchase more materials. That could be extremely annoying and frustrating.

4. Questions to ask the installers and the store:

– Are the installers independent, or are they store employees?

– Whose insurance will pay for installation errors?

– Are all of the materials recommended by the manufacturer so warranty will not be voided?

– Discuss with the salesperson the warranty information of the manufacturer. Keep a copy of the warranty.

– Discuss the maintenance procedure and keep a copy of the manual or brochure.

– Have everything documented including the diagram of the installation. Also, the amount of flooring needed in the room

– Ask who will be responsible for the removal of fixed features in the room, e.g. toilet.

– Always check the website of the store, if any, to give you an idea of the store. Take note of the affiliations to groups or other organizations.

It would be best to email the store in advance to have some questions answered before going there. It saves a lot of time.

– Have all the product information documented. The document should include the name of the manufacturer, product name, color, style and the installation procedure.

How to complete a successful ceramic tile installation for the DIY

How to complete a successful ceramic tile installation

Frederick M. Hueston, Stone Forensics  www.stoneforensics.com

 

If laying ceramic tiles is totally new to you, “how to complete a successful ceramic tile installation” is a set of basic but important tips that you will help you avoid making costly mistakes on your next bathroom or ceramic tile installation.

” Plan which Tile
” Shop around if you want to save
” Prepare the surface for a long lasting job
” Lay the tiles
” Finishing touches

Plan which Tile

This step is often underestimated and sometimes even forgotten (can you believe it?). Planning your ceramic tile installation from A to Z is probably one of the most important steps for a smooth, easy going and problem free bathroom tile installation.

Some things to take in account are;

” Suitability of the tile
” Pattern /color of the tile
” Size of the tile
” Size of the area to be tiled. (This is important data that will be vital to know how much tile, grout, etc, you have to buy)
” Adhesive, mortar or grout to suit your needs

Not all ceramic tile installations are the same, different tiling installations may require different mortar or grout. DO NOT feel shy about asking the suppliers for advice or help in calculating how much you need. They will gladly help you, as they are likely to make a sale.

Shop around if you want to save

This isn’t as difficult as the first step, however when the budget is tight it can be tricky to find the right tile for the tile installation you want. You are going to have to make some compromises and so don’t get carried away by the beauty of some of the tiles. Prices can vary a lot between different tiles, so some end up rather expensive for only a few square feet .

Always shop around, it has never been easier. Just sit in front of the computer and use the Internet. Use local directories to find the suppliers close to you and pay them a visit.

Before making your final decision always check the chosen tile under different lights as the results can be surprisingly different.

Prepare the surface for a long lasting job before laying the tiles
The surface to be tiled (floor, wall or any other) will often need to be prepared, this can include work like filling, levelling, smoothing, priming and sometimes water proofing.

The right preparation will be directly affect the lifespan of the tile installation. Unless you want to be tiling again soon, you want to get this right from the start.

This is probably the most important point to ensure a long lasting tiling job. Don’t rush it.

Laying the ceramic tiles safely

The technique of laying tiles is not especially difficult. It only takes a little bit of practice before anyone can easily master it. Clearing the room to be tiled before starting will help you to do the job safer and easier. Don’t forget to wear your safety goggles when cutting or chipping tiles.

Laying tiles can also be a bit messy, if you don’t want dust all over the house we suggest sealing the room you want to tile whenever possible. A large piece of plastic tacked to the door frame will do the job quite well.

Try not to allow any adhesive to get on your skin and never forget to read the manufacturer’s directions before even opening the tin. If some ends up on you, just clean it with water as soon as possible. Even though tile adhesives aren’t usually abrasive, if you leave it for some time it may cause an allergic reaction.

Use a level to help you with the depth & level of the tiles and spacers to maintain an even distance between them.

The finishing touches

Once the tile adhesive or mortar has cured (dried) and the tiles are firm and even, you can start with the finishing touches.

You’ll have to fill the spaces between tiles with grout making sure you don’t leave any gaps as these cause damp problems, in a shower for example.

The technique is very simple, use a rubber faced trowel to spread the grout and a cotton cloth to clean the excess grout from the tiles afterwards.

There are many different types of grouts; you’ll have to choose the right one depending on the surface and chosen tile.

Now that you have your tiles laid down, you only need to take care of them, usually manufacturers provide information on taking care of their tiles and only minimal effort is required. Most household cleaning products will do the job well, if some particular stain is stubborn, there are many commercial stain removers, just make sure you use the right product for the right tile.

You are now closer to discovering how satisfying it can be handling a tile installation yourself; just follow these 5 steps to get the best result.

There are also numerous video on youtube that can show you how to properly install tile. If your not comfortable than hire a professional tile installer

 

Why Choose Radiant Floor Heat

Why Choose Radiant Floor Heat

Throughout the ages, humankind has sought to transform a wide variety of structures into warm, inviting environments where family and friends may comfortably gather. Presently, home owners strive to please the human senses through enticing aromas, coordinating colors, velvety textures, and even relaxing music or sounds of nature. In recent years, a revolutionary appeal to touch has been developed creating a new level of luxury within the home. This radiant floor heat system is safe and durable, versatile in application, remarkably efficient, and perhaps, most important, soothing and luxurious to all beneficiaries.

Low-voltage radiant floor heat ensures not only comfort, but also a sense of security knowing that even wet bathroom floors are safe to the touch. Through computer technology, radiant floor heat systems are monitored continuously for proper temperatures, run automatic self-checks, and are programmed to shut off under abnormal conditions. In addition to safety, many of these heating products are marked by unmatched durability and a 25 year limited warranty that is unavailable anywhere else in the heated floors market. Radiant floor heat is solid state, meaning there are no moving parts requiring conscientious maintenance. For nearly 30 years, these products have been thoroughly tested and improved to provide the highest quality, longest lasting results in the industry. Eliminate upkeep concerns and enjoy the benefits of soothing, heated floors, resting assured of the reliability of the source.

In addition to withstanding the test of endurance, radiant heated floors are also noted for their versatility in meeting a variety of customer needs. Heated floors may be installed by trained professionals for those who appreciate the finished product more than the process. Other products offered target do-it-yourself enthusiasts who desire labor savings or find fulfillment in being heavily involved in home improvement projects. Furthermore, radiant floor heat is versatile in its coverage abilities. It may be effectively installed in small bathroom areas or throughout an entire house depending on the desired outcome. For some home owners, heated floors provide a pleasant, supplemental heating source whereas for others, it serves as an efficient alternative to forced-air heating units. Finally, versatility lies in its capacity to be installed in connection with new construction projects, remodeling plans, or simply under existing floors. Without creating unnecessary build-up, radiant floor heat products are successfully placed under any assortment of floor coverings including carpet, tile, hardwood, vinyl, marble and other stone varieties. A relaxing layer of heat is then efficiently transmitted through the surface and into the air above.

The efficiency of radiant floor heat comes from its ability to transform 100 percent of the energy consumed to run the system into heat output rising directly into the rooms in which it is installed. Because the heating element is evenly distributed throughout the surface area, the heat is emitted consistently and effectively warms floors, furniture, and people all located in the lower portion of the room. This avoids the energy that is lost with air- vent, heating systems in which the warmest air escapes to the ceiling areas causing a need for thermostats to be raised to compensate for the loss. Homes employing radiant floor heat as either a supplemental or main heat source are more environmentally friendly and efficient as a result of their increased use of energy consumption.

Radiant floor heat serves many practical purposes including a lack of maintenance through durability, versatility in application, and energy efficiency, but perhaps its greatest appeal is that of comfort and well-being. Imagine the enchantment of watching a blizzard outside while stepping onto cozy, kitchen tile to make a soothing cup of hot cocoa. Envision warm, inviting hardwood floors where babbles of delight emanate from children contentedly discovering life. In a stressful and fast-paced world, indulge the senses with the luxuries they deserve. Allow high-quality, radiant floor heat products to enhance that calming sense of warmth and security that radiates at home.

 

Removing Urine Stains and Odors from Stone Surfaces

Removing Urine Stains and Odors from Stone Surfaces

Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

Your new puppy made a mess on your new marble floor. The granite floor in front of the urinals in the men’s room is stained and smells of urine. These are just a few of the issues with odors emitting from your stone surfaces.  Weather it’s your puppy or your husbands poor aim the following should remove the stain and the odor.

The Chemistry of Urine

Urine is unique in that it is a substance that comes our of the body as an acid and when it starts to dry becomes an alkaline crystal. For you amateur chemist it starts at a pH of 5-6 and converts to a pH of 10-12. These alkaline crystals are hydrophilic which simply means they absorb moisture. As these crystals absorb surrounding moisture the stain can grow in size. If the stone is a polished marble or limestone it can become dull due to the initial acid reaction but can also dull from the strong alkali. If this is the case the stone may need to be repolished.

Removing the Stain

Removing urine stains can be tricky and timing is everything. The quicker you can get to the stain the easier it will be to remove.

As soon as you can blot the urine up with some dry paper towels. Do Not wipe since this will only spread the stain.  Clean the stain with some dish soap and water. Mix about one teaspoon of dish soap in a gallon of water. Apply this solution on the wet area and allow it to sit for a minute or two. Blot the solution up and rinse with clean water. If there is still a stain, then you will need to apply a poultice.

 

The following is a basic procedure for stain removal More detailed stain removal instructions can be found here. http://stoneforensics.blogspot.com/ or www.SurPHaces.com

 

What you’ll need:

1.     Flour(use only white flour)

2.     Hydrogen Peroxide 20 Volume(You can purchase 20 volume peroxide at most beauty supply stores)

3.     Plastic wrap (saran wrap or equivalent)

4.     Plastic putty knife

5.     Low contact painters’ tape

6.     Mixing bowl or cup

7.     Plastic or wooden spoon

 

 

1. Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water isolating the stain and accelerating the removal by the chemical.

2. Prepare the poultice.  Take a small amount of flour and pour the peroxide into the flour and stir until you reach a creamy consistency.

3, Apply the poultice to the stain being careful not to spill any on the non stained areas. Apply approximately 1/4-inch thick over-lapping the stain area by about one inch.

4. Cover the poultice with plastic (food wrap works great). Tape the plastic down to seal the edges. It also helps to poke several small holes in the plastic so that the powder will dry out. Failure to do this may result in the poultice staying wet.

5. Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed. Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.

6. Remove the poultice with a plastic putty knife. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain is not removed, apply the poultice again. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.

Step 2 Odor removal

 

Once the stain is removed the urine smell may still be present. The following is how to neutralize the odor:

The nasty smell you experience is the result of bacteria using the urine as a food source. So, in order to eliminate the odor we need to kill the bacteria. There are numerous products out there that are designed for eliminating the odor in carpets. These same chemicals can be used for stone.  If you use these products make sure they are enzymatic. Many products are only mask the odor, you want to eliminate it, so an enzymatic product is necessary.

 

Instructions for applying an enzymatic cleaner

 

• Spray the affected surface liberally with the cleaner using a pump sprayer or spray bottle.
• Cover with plastic  for 1 to 2 hours to slow the evaporation rate and allow time for the first application to soak deeply into the stone.
• Note that as the first application of cleaner goes to work, the urine odor may intensify at first. This is typical with old or heavy urine deposits and indicates that the urine being loosened and is rising to the surface.
• Remove the plastic and blot the floor dry with paper towels or cloths. Expect the blotting towels or cloths to be colored yellow and smell heavily of urine. Dispose of the soiled towels or cloths.
• Reapply the cleaner. Allow to dry 1 to 2 hours. (In humid climates lacking AC, drying may take longer.)
• Reapply as needed, with 1 to 2 hours drying time between applications, until odor is removed.

 

The above processes are time consuming but will be well worth the effort if done properly.

 

 

 

 

Removing Ivy and Other Vegetation from Brick and Stone Walls

Removing Ivy and Other Vegetation from Brick and Stone Walls

Frederick M. Hueston

 

Ivy growing on the side of a home or building ads a unique look, however the tendrils or aerial roots can grow into the brick or stone work causing it to flake and fall apart. If you decide to remove the vegetation from the wall it needs to be done carefully to not further damage the masonry. The following is a procedure that should remove the ivy safely.

 

Before attempting any removal make sure you are wearing the proper personal protective equipment such a glove and googles.

 

Step 1. If there is any living ivy it will need to be killed using a weed remover such as Round Up of similar product. Looking for a product that contains Glyphosate.  Spay the ivy making sure to saturate it. It may take several days for it to complete turn brown. Reapplication may be necessary. Make sure to do this in dry weather to give it time to work.

Step 2. Once all the ivy is dead cut the main trunks with a saw or shears as close to the ground as possible.

Step 3.  Remove as much of the top growth as possible with shears. DO NOT pull the ivy. Pulling can cause additional damage to the brick or stone.

 

Step 4. Once all the top growth is removed scrape the remaining aerial roots with a putty knife. Be careful not to dig the putty knife into the brick or stone. Hold the scarper at a 30 degree angle.

 

Step 5. Remove any remaining aerial roots with a wire brush.

 

Step 6. Rinse the brick and stone with clean water.  You can scrub with a soft scrub brush if desired. DO NOT use a metal brush with water. Use only a nylon brush

Step 7. Clean the brick or stone with a good quality stone cleaner.

Step 8. If repairs are needed than I would call a reputable stone restoration contractor. Repairs are not a DIY project.

 

 

 

I repeat..>DO NOT yank or pull the ivy off the wall. Otherwise you will pull apart the brick or stone.

Difficult aerial roots can be burnt off with a torch.