The Use of Color Enhancers on Stone Surfaces

By Frederick M. Hueston StoneForensics.com

 

Natural or artificial stone surfaces are renowned for their sturdiness, adaptability, and beauty. Unfortunately, the hue of the stone may fade or become dull with time due to exposure to the environment and normal wear and tear. Thankfully, there are color enhancers that may bring out the stone's natural tones and patterns, giving it a lively and alluring appearance. We'll go through how to apply color enhancers to stone surfaces in this article.

 

Recognize the kind of stone surface you have:

The initial stage is to determine the kind of stone surface you have. On various types of stones, color enhancers function in various ways. For instance, some stones, like marble or quartzite, may take more time and effort to get the desired results than others, such as granite, slate, and sandstone, which are very porous and quickly absorb the enhancer. The best color enhancer for the job will be easier to select if you are aware of the sort of stone surface you have.

 

Choose the proper color enhancer:

Several color enhancer kinds, including penetrating, topical, and wet-look enhancers, are available. The natural colors and patterns of the stone are enhanced with penetrating enhancers, which are absorbed into the stone's pores. Comparatively, topically applied boosters give the stone a layer of defense against stains and abrasions. Wet-look enhancers give the surface of the stone a glossy, polished appearance.

Color enhancers are also available in a solvent or water based carrier. It is best to test both for desired results.

 

 

 

Prepare the stone surface:

 It's critical to properly clean the stone surface before applying the color enhancer. To clean any dirt, debris, or stains from the surface, use a pH-neutral cleanser. Clean the surface with water, then allow it to thoroughly dry. Before applying the enhancer, treat any areas with a stone-specific stain remover if there are any serious stains.

Apply the color enhancer:

 After the surface has been well cleaned and dried, the color enhancer should be used. Pay close attention to the directions on the product label. Most of the time, you'll need to use a brush or a spray bottle to apply the enhancer. Be sure to uniformly cover the entire surface. To get the desired effect while using a penetrating enhancer, you might need to apply more than one coat. Before touching the surface, let the enhancer entirely dry.

 

Maintain the stone surface:

 It's critical to maintain the stone surface properly to ensure that the color enhancer lasts for a long period. On the surface, stay away from applying strong chemicals or acidic cleaners. For routine cleaning, use a pH-neutral cleaner made especially for stone surfaces. If something spills on the surface, clean it up right once to avoid stains. Moreover, stay away from setting hot pans or pots directly on stone surfaces as this can harm the color enhancer.

 

Applying color enhancers to stone surfaces can accentuate the stone's inherent beauty and safeguard it from normal wear and strain. To get the desired results, you must select the suitable enhancer and thoroughly prepare the surface. These techniques can help you maintain the attractiveness and vibrancy of your stone surfaces for many years to come.

What is the proper caulk to use on stone and tile

 

What is the proper caulk to use on stone and tile

By Frederick M. Hueston StoneForensics.com

 

Choosing the proper type of caulk when installing stone or tile is extremely important. All too often the wrong type can seep into the stone or tile causing staining that can be difficult to remove. So, what type of caulk should be used in your stone or tile countertops, shower etc. The following should help you understand the different types of caulks and where they should be used

 

Caulk is a versatile material used to fill gaps and cracks in stone and tile surfaces such as walls, floors, and countertops. It is a pliable material that can be used to form a seal that prevents air and moisture from passing through. There are several types of caulks, each with its own set of properties and applications. In this article, we'll look at the most common types of caulks and how they're used.

 

Silicone

Silicone caulk is widely used for sealing stone and tile corners and wherever there is change in plane in shower walls, floors or countertops. It is flexible, waterproof, and mildew resistant, making it ideal for moisture-prone areas. Because silicone caulk is heat resistant, it can be used around ovens and other high-temperature surfaces. It should not, however, be painted and should not be used on porous surfaces. Only 100% silicone caulking should be used. Avoid any hybrid combinations such as acrylic-silicone types.

Acrylic

Acrylic caulk is a water-based material that can be painted over after it has dried. It can be used to fill gaps and cracks in wood, drywall, and other porous surfaces but should be avoided on stone surfaces. It may be ok for ceramic or porcelain tile. Acrylic caulk is less flexible than silicone caulk and should not be used in moisture-prone areas.

Latex

When a paintable sealer is needed in some areas, latex caulk is a popular option. It is a great alternative for filling gaps and cracks in drywall and wood that abuts tile because it is water-based, simple to use, and easy to apply. Since latex caulk is less flexible than silicone caulk, it should not be used in locations where moisture is present. This type of caulk is not recommended for stone surfaces.

Butyl

Butyl Caulk Butyl caulk is a synthetic rubber substance renowned for its superior adhesion capabilities. It works well for sealing exterior tile, and other outdoor applications. Because butyl caulk is adaptable and weatherproof, it is perfect for usage in outdoor spaces. It should not be painted, though, and it should not be used on porous stone surfaces.

Polyurethane

polyurethane caulk is well-known for its superior adhesive qualities. It works well for patching up holes and cracks in masonry surfaces like concrete, brick, and others. In addition to being flexible, polyurethane caulk can be used in moving spaces and for expansion joints. On the other hand, it is not advised to use it on other porous stone surfaces, and it cannot be painted.

Caulk is a multipurpose substance that can be used to patch holes and cracks in a variety of stone and tile surfaces. Your choice of caulk will be influenced by the surface you are sealing as well as the environment it will be in. There is a caulk kind that will suit your demands, whether you require a flexible, watertight sealant for a bathroom or a strong adhesive for outdoor uses. The best silicone to use on stone is usually 100% silicone, though I would always suggest testing it beforehand to be sure.

 

Is cleaning stone with just plain water a good idea?

 

Is cleaning stone with just plain water a good idea?

By Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

I've lost count of the number of times I've asked homeowners or building maintenance workers what they use to clean stone surfaces, and they've said nothing but water. They appear reluctant to use any kind of cleanser for fear of ruining the stone. I'll explain why using just water to clean isn't a good idea in the next section.

 

The cleaning chemicals we use on stone surfaces can have a major effect on our health and the environment, yet cleaning is an integral part of proper maintenance. Many people nowadays, in an effort to reduce their environmental impact, are choosing to use solely water. Water alone may seem like a fantastic cleaning solution, but there are really a few reasons why this isn't the case.

 

Dirt and grime can't be washed away with just water. It's true that water is necessary for cleaning, but it's also true that it won't do a good job of getting the grime off. Frequently, dirt and grime are embedded in the stone surface, making it impossible to remove them with just water. Water alone as a cleaning agent may actually spread dirt and bacteria around instead of eliminating them.

Viruses and bacteria can survive in water.

Even though water cleaning might get rid of obvious filth and grime, it won't do anything to destroy germs and bacteria lurking in the background. Using a disinfectant cleaner or a cleaning product with components specifically safe for stone surfaces is the best way to get rid of germs and bacteria on stone surfaces. It's especially crucial to use these substances in high-traffic areas like kitchens and bathrooms, where the spread of germs and bacteria is constant.

Stains may need more than just water to be removed. Certain stains, like those found on natural stone floors and countertops, are nearly impossible to wash out with just water. Oil and grease stains, for example, may be removed with a poultice that includes a degreaser or solvent. When cleaning these types of stains, using merely water can actually make the problem worse.

In conclusion, cleaning stone surfaces with water alone is not a good method. Only special cleaners can eliminate germs and filth, while water alone will leave stains intact. In order to remove dirt and germs from your stone, you should only use cleaning products that are made for that type of stone and have the right chemicals.

 

Epoxy vs. Polyester

 

Epoxy vs. Polyester. Are You Using The Right Adhesive?

Frederick M. Hueston

 

 

I was sitting in my office when I received a call from a hotel manager about a swimming pool coping that was falling apart.  I asked him what was falling apart and he told me that the stone was falling into the pool.  I got in my truck and made my way over to the hotel and discovered that the swimming pool had a travertine coping and all the laminations where failing and falling off. I examined the laminations closely and discovered that Polyester was used in the laminations.

 

Several weeks later I got a similar call from a home owner who had a similar problem but this time the laminations where failing on her new granite countertop. Again, upon inspection, the adhesive used was polyester.

 

How many of you use polyester for your laminations and other applications where you are bonding two pieces of stone together? If you do, your laminations are prone to failure.

 

There are many choices when it comes to the selection of adhesives and it can get very confusing. The following is a brief explanation of the two most popular adhesives in the stone industry and a guide as to where to use what type:

 

 

Epoxy or Polyester?

 

Polyester

 

 

Polyesters use a hardening agent to catalyze the curing reaction. Most polyesters use a peroxide hardening agent.

 

Of all the adhesives available polyester is the least inexpensive but also has the weakest bond strength. It also has a very high shrinkage rate and the highest water absorption amongst all the adhesives. It is also very prone to UV degradation and will crack and become brittle.

 

For this reason polyester should never be used for laminations or for repairs in wet area or used outdoors.

 

Polyesters are good for small repairs for indoor stone applications such as filling and seams or in applications where bond strength is of no concern. The bond strength of polyesters is less than 500 PSI.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Epoxy

 

Epoxies are two parts labeled part A and Part B. Most epoxies are mixed at a ratio of 2/1 but some are 1/1.

 

Of all the adhesives used in the stone industry epoxies have the strongest bond. Bond strengths can exceed 2000 PSI. It has a lower shrinkage rate than polyester and is more UV stable with a lower water absorption rate.

 

It is clear that if you want great adhesion, epoxy is the stronger adhesive. I always recommend using epoxy for laminations and rodding and anywhere else you want the stone to stick and not fall apart.

 

A little experiment.

 

Here is a crude test that I perform when testing adhesives for bond strength.

Take two pieces of stone with the polished sides facing each other. Place some adhesive on the polish faces and clamp them together. Let the clamped pieces set overnight. The next morning take a hammer and try to break them apart.  A weak glue, such as polyester will break clean, leaving the face of the stone intact. A strong adhesive such as an epoxy will be so strong that the face of the stone will spall off.  This indicates that the adhesive bond is stronger than the natural bond of the stone.

 

 

 

 

Adhesive Grades:

 

All adhesives are available in various viscosities ranging from low to high. The following are the most popular choices

 

Knife Grade- Consistency is similar to spackling putty or creamy peanut butter.

 

Flowing Grade- Consistency of a motor oil

 

Penetrating Grade- Consistency of water

 

Super Penetrating Grade- Consistency of a solvent such as mineral spirits or paint thinner

 

Generally knife grades are used for repairs for fills that are over 1/16 of an inch wide. Flowing grades are used for repairs smaller than 1/16^th and for laminations and rodding.

Penetrating and super penetrating grades are rarely used by fabricators but are used for resining stone and for applications where an adhesive is need to penetrate very small pores.

 

Adhesive Colors

 

Today’s adhesives are available in a number of colors however there may times when you need to add coloring.  Many of the adhesive manufacturers have tints that you can use.  If you in a pinch I have found that artist oil colors work well for most polyesters, however for epoxies you will need to use tints designed specifically for them.

 

General Properties

 

Temperature

 

All adhesives are sensitive to temperature and humidity. This means that cure times will vary. Adhesives will cure faster with increasing temperatures and slower at cooler temperatures.

 

Temperature will also affect the viscosity. Higher temperature will thin the adhesive.

 

Tip:  There are several heated dispensers for epoxies that work very well for faster cure times and easier flowing.

 

Cure Time

 

The general rule of thumb for most adhesives is the slower the cure time the stronger the bond.  Epoxies with a 7 hour cure time are going to be much stronger than an epoxy with a five minute cure time.

If too much hardener is added to polyester you will increase the cure time but you will reduce the bond strength.

 

UV exposure

 

Nothing is completely UV proof; however epoxies are more UV resistant than polyesters and are the adhesive of choice for outdoor exposure.

 

Moisture

 

Polyester is very sensitive to moisture and for that reason it should be avoided in wet areas such as showers.  Epoxy has a much higher tolerance for moisture and is the adhesive of choice in wet areas.

 

When using polyester you must make sure that the stone is completely dry. Epoxies can tolerate some moisture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Polyester

• The stone must be completely dry 
• If you do not thoroughly mix the resin and hardener it will probably cure anyway
• You can use most colors to tint
• Many varieties available
• Good adhesion when prepared properly
• Can easily be used for patching
• Stone surface must be abraded before sticking
• Should NOT be used for exterior or in moist locations
• Quick curing time (normally 10 minutes to 1 hour depending on the product and the weather)

Epoxy

• Stone can be a little moist
• Resin and hardener must be thoroughly mixed to cure
• You should use only colors made for epoxy
• Not as many varieties available
• Great adhesions when prepared properly
• Not as easily used for patching
• Stone surface should be abraded, but it will stick to a smooth surface also
• CAN be used for exterior and moist locations
• Slow curing time (normally 7 hours depending on the product and the weather)

 

 

 

 

Removing Calcium build Up from non-calcite exterior stone

 

Removing Calcium build Up from non-calcite exterior stone

By Frederick M Hueston, StoneForensics.com

Removing white calcium buildup from exterior stone can be a difficult task, but it is doable with the right tools and techniques. Here are some steps to take in order to remove white calcium from exterior stone:

1. Begin by combining one cup of sulfamic acid with one gallon of water. This will produce a mild acid solution that will aid in the breakdown of the calcium buildup.

2. Using a spray bottle or a brush, apply the solution to the affected area of the stone. Make sure to thoroughly saturate the area.

3. Allow at least 15 minutes for the solution to sit on the stone. This will allow the acid to penetrate the calcium buildup and begin to break it down.

4. Scrub the affected area with a stiff-bristled brush. To remove as much calcium buildup as possible, apply firm pressure and scrub in a circular motion.

5. Thoroughly rinse the area with water to remove any remaining solution and debris. Once all the calcium is removed neutralize with a neutral cleaner.

6. Repeat steps 2–5 as needed to remove the calcium buildup.

It's important to note that the steps above are only guidelines; depending on the type of stone, the severity of the stain, and the type of calcium deposit, some stones may require more aggressive acids like hydrochloric.

A mild acid solution, a stiff-bristled brush, and some elbow grease are required to remove white calcium buildup from exterior stone. You can restore the beauty of your exterior stone and protect it from future damage with patience and persistence.

Caution: Do not use this method on calcium based stone such as limestone or marble. There are removers that are non acidic that are available from your stone equipment suppliers.

A Brief History of Stone Polishing

 

A Brief History of Stone Polishing

By Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

Stone polishing has been done since the beginning of civilization. Egyptian workers used sand and other rough materials to polish the surfaces of statues and monuments made of stone. This is the first time that polishing stone is known to have been done. Ancient Greeks and Romans also used this method. They used a variety of tools and materials to make smooth, shiny surfaces on marble statues and building parts.

 

During the Middle Ages, ways to polish stones kept getting better. Buildings made of limestone and sandstone in Europe were polished by skilled workers who used tools they could hold in their hands. They also used grinding wheels powered by water to make stone floors and countertops smooth and even.

 

During the Industrial Revolution in the 1800s, there were big changes in how stone was polished. When the steam-powered grinding wheel was invented, it made polishing large surfaces faster and more effective. This made it possible to polish whole floors and building facades in a short amount of time.

 

Today, polishing stones is a very specialized job that uses a wide range of modern tools and methods. Professional stone polishers use tools like electric and pneumatic grinders, polishing pads with diamond tips, and chemical polishing compounds.

 

In short, polishing stones is an old skill that has changed over time into a highly specialized field that uses modern tools and methods. From the time when ancient Egyptians used rough materials to polish the surfaces of stone monuments to the 19th century, when a grinding wheel powered by steam was invented, technology has been a big part of how stone polishing has changed.

The Mechanics of polishing stone has not changed much over hundreds of years. Yes the tools and abrasives might have changed but the processes remain the same.

Hiring a Stone and Tile Failure Expert

 

Hiring a Stone and Tile Failure Expert

By Frederick M. Hueston,  Stone Forensics.com

Problems can quickly escalate while working with stone or tile. The results of a stone or tile failure can range from aesthetically unpleasant stains and discolorations to dangerous structural damage and even safety issues. To put it another way, you need the help of a failure expert.

An expert in stone and tile failure is a specialist trained to diagnose and repair issues in all varieties of these materials. They can quickly and accurately determine if a problem is the result of improper installation, defective components, or simple wear and tear because of their extensive expertise in the field. The knowledge and equipment at their disposal allow them to offer advice on whether or not to replace worn-out or broken stone or tile with a newer, more aesthetically pleasing one.

Hiring a stone/tile failure expert can save you a lot of money by preventing you from making careless errors. In the event that you feel your flooring was installed incorrectly, for instance, a stone/tile failure expert can assess the situation and recommend a course of action. They will be able to recommend to remove and replace the flooring if needed, and they will do so in a method that causes you the least amount of trouble and expense.

Hiring a stone/tile failure expert can also help you spot issues before they escalate. Flooring, countertops, and other stone or tile structures can be inspected on a regular basis for signs of wear and tear, and maintenance or repair recommendations can be made as needed. Taking preventative measures like these can save you money in the long run by reducing the need for repairs to your flooring.

If you want to be sure your stone or tile is secure, long-lasting, and aesthetically pleasing, consulting a failure specialist is a smart move. Saving you time, money, and hassle in the long run, they can aid in problem identification and resolution. In order to safeguard your investment and reap the full benefits of your stone and tile, it is recommended that you consult with a qualified specialist in the field.