What is that Pink Stuff on my Shower Floor and Walls

 

What is that Pink Stuff on my Shower Floor and Walls

By Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

You walk into your shower and notice this pink discoloration growing between the grout on your tile floors and walls. You may also encounter this pink stain on your toilet where the water line is. What is this pink stuff? Most professionals assume it is a type of mold. There on the right track but there wrong. The pink stuff is caused from a bacterium called Serratia Marcescens. This bacterium is found in the environment and tends to grow on soap and shampoo films.

If you’re a healthy individual the bacteria is harmless, however people with comprises immune systems can experience aliments such as urinary tract and bladder infections. The bacteria can enter the body through the eyes and any open cuts or wounds. For this reason it is best to remove the bacteria with the following procedure:

 

Cleaning that Pink Stuff

 

Fortunately removing this pink bacterium is fairly easy.

To remove the pink film, take about a cup of baking soda and mix it into a paste by adding some liquid dish detergent. Apply this paste to the pink areas and allow it to sit for about 15 minutes or so. Next scrub the surface with a soft nylon scrub brush and rinse with plenty of water.  Repeat until all the pink is gone.

Prevention

Cleaning is not enough since there still may be bacteria. You will need to disinfect the shower. The best disinfectant is bleach. Mix about a ¼ cup of household bleach to a gallon of water. Spray this mixture and allow it to sit for about 10 minutes. Then rinse with plenty of water.

This Pink bacterium spreads in damp and wet areas so its important to dry the shower each time its used to remove any excess water.

If soap scum or shampoo starts to accumulate clean it with a nonacid shower cleaner and towel dry.

Remove any shower curtains and wash on a monthly basis.

Keep the bathroom air circulating to help keep in dry. Turning on the exhaust fan for 20 minutes after a shower will help.

Make sure to keep bathroom windows closed. This bacterium is air-borne and can enter from the outside air.

Why Painting Brick is a Bad Idea

 

Why Painting Brick is a Bad Idea

By Frederick M. Hueston, Stone Forensics

 

That ugly, deteriorating brick wall needs to be cleaned and painted. So out comes the pressure washer to clean it and then an application of several coats of paint. BAD IDEA.  Painting brick can cause all kinds of problems and if that brick is already deteriorating than painting it will only accelerate the damage. The following article will explain why painting brick is a bad idea.

 

Types of Brick

Before we understand why paints, coating, sealers etc are a bad idea for brick we must first understand what types of bricks are out there as well as how brick react to moisture.

In the construction industry there are basically five brick types

 

• Burnt clay bricks

These are the most common bricks and the ones normally found in most homes and buildings. They are made from wet clays, compressed and fired in a kiln. They are commonly red in color but can be found in almost any earth tone.

• Sand lime bricks (calcium silicate bricks)

These are manufactured by a combination of sand, fly ash and lime. Color pigments are added for various colors. Unlike burnt clay bricks they are not fired with the same technique. They are molded under heat and pressure and form a chemical bond to hold them together. The are usually gray in color but can be any color. Their finish is smoother than other brick types and are often used for strength.

• Concrete bricks

Concrete brick as made of Portland cement mixtures. They are also available in various colors. They are commonly used in fencing and interior brick work

• Fly ash clay bricks.

These are light weight bricks since they contain fly ash. They tend to expand in in the presents of moisture. They are also highly fire resistant and often used foundations

 

 

 

• Refractory Bricks

These types of bricks contain special blends of earth and aluminum oxide. They can withstand extremely high temperature. They are commonly used inside chimneys and furnaces as well as pizza ovens and outdoor barbecues.

 

Brick Properties and its Deterioration

More than likely the brick you plan on painting is very porous. Of course, the mortar between the brick, which is called “point”, is also very porous. Most paints, sealers and other coating and treatments are not breathable or what is called vapor permeable. This prevents water from escaping the brick and mortar.

Most of the problems associated with brick can be traced to moisture or water intrusion of some kind. Many stains are caused by the presents of water. Water is an essential ingredient for the setting, cleaning and restoration of brick, but it can also be its number one enemy.

What problems are associated with moisture and water.  The following is a brief description of these problems.

Efflorescence

Efflorescence appears as a white powdery residue on the surface of the brick.  It is a common condition on new brick installations or when the brick is exposed to a large quantity of water, such as weather and washing.  This powder is a mineral salt from the setting bed or brick itself.  To remove efflorescence do not use water, brush the brick with a clean soft nylon brush.  The brick will continue to effloresce until it is completely dry.  This drying process can take several days to as long as one year or more.

Subflorescene

Subflorescene is what happens when the mineral salts migrate and do not make it all the way to the surface. In the efflorescence condition above, the salts are deposited on the surface of the brick. In subflorescene the salts crystallize just below the surface, causing stress within the pores of the brick. The result is a condition known as spalling which appears as pits or flaking in the surface of the brick.  subflorescence is very common on brick and is very common on almost all masonry surfaces where de-icing salts are used.

 

 

Mineral crusts or Lime Putty

 

Mineral crusts or lime putty can be recognized by its white crust like formation on brick surfaces. These crusts are often found on outdoor brick walls, water fountains and other areas where brick is exposed to water. The crusts are a deposit of hard mineral salts consisting of calcium, magnesium. These minerals originate from the soil, setting bed or from the water itself. These salts are similar to efflorescence in that they are a mineral. They differ in that they form a hard crust that can be difficult to remove.

 

Now imagine all these salts trying to escape the surface of the brick. As the salts being carried by water migrates to the surface and meets the paint of coating, they become trapped.  The salts continue to accumulate in the pores of the brick and slowly attack the brick causing the paint to flake and the brick to break down and in server cases turn to powder. At this point replacement may be the only option.

In conclusion if painting brick or applying any sealer or coating it is important to make sure the paint, sealer or coating is breathable. Most paints and sealers are not.

The Best Way to Clean a Granite Countertop Inexpensively

 The Best Way to Clean a Granite Countertop Inexpensively

Frederick M Hueston

Stoneforensics.com

The Best Way to Clean a Granite Countertop – Inexpensively!

Figuring out the best way to clean a granite countertop that you've sunk a great deal of money into can keep one up nights! Well, put your mind at rest. We know exactly what you need to do to keep that investment in peak condition without costing you an arm and a leg! So read on to learn the best way to clean a granite countertop.

Despite the seemingly hundreds of products claiming to be the best way to clean a granite countertop, the truly best (and cheapest!) way is right in your home! Just grab that bottle of isopropyl rubbing alcohol and your halfway to the cleanest, shiniest, and, yes, best way to clean a granite countertop.

Many cleaning supply retailers may claim the best way to clean a granite countertop employs the use of harsh chemicals. Not so! To clean any kind of stone product, its smart to use a product with a neutral pH. Cleaners that contain acidic ingredients, including vinegar, can cause scratching and even deep etches.

Alcohol and water mix, on the other hand, with a pH of around 7.0, is one of two ingredients needed for the best way to clean a granite countertop. The other? Good, old-fashioned liquid dishwashing detergent. When you add a few drops of say, Dawn dishwashing detergent to a quarter-cup of alcohol, then fill the rest of a quart-size spray bottle with water, you've got yourself the best way to clean a granite countertop for only a few, measly cents. Compare that to the $5 or $6 you'll pay for those expensive (and potentially damaging) products that you've mistakenly thought to be the best way to clean a granite countertop.

Other things to keep in mind for the best way to clean a granite countertop include maintenance and prevention. Maintain your beautiful stone by blotting spills immediately and then deep cleaning weekly with your homemade alcohol/dish soap solution. Prevent damaging your stone by avoiding placing anything acidic directly on it, which includes tomatoes, oranges, lemons, limes, or grapefruit. The juices of these food products are particularly damaging.

Now that you know the best way to clean a granite countertop, relax! So don't let it keep you up nights any longer. Your empowered! You've got the best way to clean a granite countertop under control now. So for heavens sake get some sleep!

Why is my Pool Deck turning green and black?

 

Why is my Pool Deck turning green and black?

Frederick M. Hueston

 

What is that green and black stuff growing on my pool deck? The majority of these unsightly spots are the result of biological growth in the form of Algae, Molds, Lichens and  Mosses as well as plants such as ivy and grasses. The following guide will help you in identifying these biological growths as well as removing and controlling them.

Biological Growth Types

Algae

Algae is commonly green in color but can also be black, orange, red or yellow. It is easy to identify since it grows in mats, films and patches on the surface of stone, brick and Concrete.

Algae is a single cell plant but lacks roots, leaves, stems and vascular tissue.  Most algae, especially the green type needs moisture and sunlight to grow. However there are species that will grow in low light but damp moist areas are usually required.

Moss

The most common moss is green but can also be red. Like algae it requires sunlight and moisture to grow but in addition needs a mineral source often found in soils. Unlike algae it has root structure and a very small leaf structure. It will often be growing in the grout between the stone and masonry.

 Mold

Mold is not a plant but a fungus. It does not require sunlight but does require moisture and an organic food source. Mold is generally black in color but can also be red, organe, brown or yellow. Mold grows easily on many types of limestone since they contain organic matter to feed the mold.

Lichens

Lichens comprise a fungus living in a symbiotic relationship with an alga or cyanobacterium (or both in some instances). They can be red, yellow, red, green, white or yellow. They are identified by crusts or leaf like structures with defined borders, growing away from the surface of the stone or masonry.

Ivy, Grasses and Higher plants

 These plants are easily identified by there root system and there large leaf structure. They are often green in color.

 

Removal of Biological Growth

Regardless of the type of biological growth removal requires the uses of biocide cleaning chemicals such as peroxide, bleach and other biocides. The following is a basic cleaning procedure that is recommended to remove these growths.

 

1.     Wear gloves and protective clothing. A mask is recommended since some mold and algae spores can emit spores which can be harmful to your respiratory system.

2.     Algae is best removed when it is dry since the spores are more likely to become airborne when wet. Allow the surface to dry or dry it with a fan. Once dry remove as much as possible by scraping of scrubbing with a stiff broom or brush.

3.     A pressure washer can be used to remove the remaining biological growth but there are some precautions and recommendations as follows:

a.      Do not use high pressure. Test the pressure in a non-conspicuous area to make sure you are not damaging the stone or masonry.

b.     Use hot water if possible. Hot water will also kill some of the biological growth as well sanitize the surface.

c.      Use a wide nozzle tip to minimize damage. Keep the tip of the wand at least 12 inches away from the surface.

d.      

4.     Bleach or Vinegar can be used to clean suborn growth. Mix the bleach or vinegar. Use one cup of bleach or vinegar with one gallon of water. test this mixture in a non-conspicuous area to test for discoloration. Some stone and masonry types can lighten up with bleach or vinegar.

5.     Apply the bleach or Vinegar mixture on the deck and allow it to sit for 15-20 minutes. Do not let it dry. If it dries, apply more of this mixture.

6.     After 15-20 minutes scrub the area with a nylon brush and rinse with plenty of clean water. Be care of nearby plants since this mixture can kill landscaping plants and grasses.

In lieu of bleach or vinegar you can use many of the commercial cleaners that are available at most home centers. Be sure to read the directions carefully. 

Spot Removal

If you have just a few spots you can use 3% hydrogen peroxide. Simply spray the growth with the peroxide, allow it to sit for several minutes and then rinse with water.

 

 

Prevention

To keep biological growth at bay you should clean the deck on a regular bases. There are also sealers and preventive biocides that are available which will hasten the growth. But you best defense is to keep the deck clean.

The Use of Limestone in your Shower

 

Limestone Use in Wet Areas

By Frederick M. Hueston

 

Over the past 30 years I have inspected hundreds if not thousands of shower installation that have use limestone.  The amount of deterioration I have observed in nearly all these installations ranged from staining to complete disintegration of the stone. Most will attempt to blame the installation method, but I can assure you these issues occur in installations that are installed within industry guidelines.

In a nutshell I would not recommend using limestone in wet areas. The following is why I would not recommend it

 

1.      Limestone is a sedimentary stone. It naturally contains minerals such as iron. When iron is exposed to continued wetting the iron will begin to oxidize causing a large stain. At first the stain may appear light brown but over time it will darken and continue to oxidize to a deep brown to reddish stain.  Removing the iron from the stone is nearly impossible since it is part of the mineral makeup of the stone.

2.      Limestone, even when sealed is typically very porous.  Water will enter the pores of the stone and react with the setting bed. The setting bed contains salts which become dissolved in the water. The water carries the salts into the pores of the stone. When the stone dries, the salts recrystallize causing pressure in the pores resulting in the stone blowing out(spalling).

3.      Limestone is an organic sedimentary rock that forms from the accumulation of shell, coral, algal, and fecal debris. It is formed by sediment settling to the bottom of a water basin. The main mineral is calcium carbonate.  Calcium carbonate can be soluble in water. This is yet another reason to avoid using limestone in a wet environment. Since it often contains organic matter, this too is soluble in water.

4.      Steam showers are even a bigger concern with limestone installation due to the fact the vapors produced by the steam can enter very tiny pores that liquid water cannot. The steam than condense in the pores causing the stone to deteriorate.

5.      The Natural Stone Institute, who is the leading trade association in the industry, recommends that only class A & B stones be used in interior wet areas. Limestone fall into a C class at best, Many fall into the D classification. For more info on this classification system go to The Natural Stone Institutes website at https://www.naturalstoneinstitute.org/

 

One may question the fact that limestone is used on building exteriors with no issues. This is true but there is a big difference. The average shower produces on average of over 8000 inches of water per year. To put this in perspective the rainiest area of earth is in China which has 321 inches of rain a year.. The average shower has over 26 times that amount. That’s a lot of water.

I have been in the stone business for over 35 years and have numerous colleges who agree that using limestone in a shower is not recommended.

Can Granite and Quartzite Etch

 

Can Granite and Quartzite Etch

Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

One of the advantages of having a granite or quartzite top is its resistance to etching.  Many stone fabricators recommend these stone for countertops due to the fact that they will not etch with common acidic food and beverages.  Acidic substances generally will not etch these stone cause they lack calcium. Calcium is the main mineral found in marbles and limestone. However, there is a substance they will produce an etch like mark on not only granite and quartzite but also on glass. This is what we call an alkaline etch. Alkaline are any chemical substance above 7 on the pH scale. Many household chemicals such as cleaners, soaps and detergents are alkaline in nature. Theses alkalis contain salts which can deposit on the surface or in the pores of the stone leaving a white haze. A good example of this is when your glasses in a dishwasher have a white cloudy film on them that won’t wipe off. This is caused by the harsh detergents in dishwashing soaps. The same reaction can take place on granite and quartzites.

How to remove Alkaline etching

Since an alkali is higher on the pH scale, an acid is needed to counter act the alkaline reaction. So a mild acid is recommend to remove the etch.  Take a rag or paper towel and soak it in white vinegar. Place the the rag on the etch and allow it to sit for several hours. The acid in the vinegar should react with the alkali salts and dissolve it. After several hours remove the rag and rinse the area with a neutral cleaner and dry. Examine the area.  In some cases the stone may need to be repolished by a professional.

Stone and Tile Damaged by Hurricane Laura?

 

Stone and Tile Floor Damaged from Hurricanes and Floods?  Replace or Repair (Hurricane Laura)

By Frederick M. Hueston

  Homeowners who have suffered water damage to their stone and tile floors can have difficulty determining if the flood has ruined their floors. It can be difficult to determine if a floor needs to be replaced or if it can be repaired. This is going to be a question that will need to be answered in light of Laura, the recent Hurricane that hit Louisiana. To determine the extent of damage and to ultimately settle on a value for the claim a throughout understanding of what can cause these damages is necessary. The following article will help you understand what can happen when a stone or tile floor is flooded. As an expert witness I have been involved in many cases where flooding is an issue. Many times, the wrong process is used for cleaning which can cause greater, and perhaps irreversible, damage to the floor.

 

In addition, many insurance companies will not pay claims due to the lack of visual evidence and will sign off on a claim only to find that additional underlying problems didn’t manifest visually until months afterward. Please contact an expert who is thoroughly familiar with these types of issues and can help with your case.

 

 

Flooding can wreak havoc on natural stone and tile floors. Flood waters not only contain water which can harm and destroy marble, granite, limestone, terrazzo, and tile flooring, but they also contain debris and dirt as well as other harmful contaminates that can cause staining and other problems.  Many times, the damage that is done by the flooding will not show up until months later.

 

As a stone/tile forensic expert I deal with problems such as those resulting from flooding on a frequent basis. The good news is that not all of the problems that result necessarily mean the floor must be replaced. There are some tests that can be performed by forensic experts to see if it is possible to reverse the damage rather than having to resort to costly replacement.

 

Following are some of the most common problems that may occur.

 

Efflorescence

Efflorescence appears as a white powdery residue on the surface of the stone. It is a common condition on stone, terrazzo, and tile installations when the stone is exposed to a large quantity of water, such as flooding. This powder is a mineral salt from the setting bed. It can be removed by cleaning professionals, but many times will come back after the initial cleaning. The stone will continue to effloresce until it is completely dry. This drying process can take several days to many months. A major mistake that is often made—even by some professionals—is to apply a sealer to the stone or tile. The reason this is a major mistake is the sealer will block the escape of moisture which can cause further problems such as flaking and spalling of the stone.

 

The stone or tile should be evaluated for moisture by a professional stone and tile forensic expert to determine the extent of residual moisture.

 

Sub-florescence

Sub-florescence is what happens when the mineral salts migrate and do not make it all the way to the surface. In the efflorescence condition above, the salts are deposited on the surface of the stone. In sub-florescence, the salts crystallize just below the surface, causing stress within the pores of the stone. The result is a condition known as spalling, which appears as pits in the surface of the stone. Sub-florescence is quite common on green marbles and on almost all stone and tile surfaces where flooding has occurred. The stone or tile can be tested for salts by a qualified professional stone and tile expert.

 

Yellowing and Discoloration

Many light-colored stones contain naturally occurring deposits of iron.  Iron is a mineral found in stone and can occur randomly throughout the stone.  If iron is present, it will begin to oxidize when exposed to water or other oxidizers such as acids and household bleach.  Stone can remain for years without yellowing, then over time may slowly turn yellow and in severe causes may turn completely brown. This oxidation process is accelerated when the stone is saturated with water as from a flood. This process of oxidation is like the rusting of metal.  If you expose a brand-new nail to water and air it will turn brown and rust.  The same process is occurring with the iron in the stone. If water and / or air is eliminated, the iron will not oxidize.  This is the reason certain white marbles suddenly turn yellow.  The process is difficult to reverse and replacement of the stone may be necessary if not properly evaluated and the proper removal technique.

 

Warping

Several types of thin stone tiles are very susceptible to warping when exposed to flooding. Many of the green marbles and a few agglomerate marbles are notorious for this warping condition.  Many installers have had the surprise of finding that their tile installation has mysteriously become warped overnight. Why does this a happen and can it be prevented?

 

Warping is caused by water. Green marble set with any water-based material will have a tendency to warp.  The mechanism of why the tile warps is somewhat a mystery.  Some believe that the water fills the pores of the stone and when the water evaporates the orientation of the stone’s crystal changes and causes it to warp. Whatever the reason, one thing is for sure, green marble can warp when set with water-based materials or exposed to copious amounts of water.

 

Cure: Once a green marble tile warps it is difficult to repair. Attempts have been made to grind the tile flat, but this usually fails since additional water is introduced during the grinding process. The green simply warps again. In order to determine if the stone can be repaired a detailed investigation must be made. This many include removing a tile to determine the type of setting bed, etc.

 

Erosion

Erosion is a condition found when stone is exposed to constant amounts of water. This is especially true with marble that is used in water fountains.  While marble is a very decorative material, it is one of the worst materials to use in or around water.  Marble is composed of calcium carbonate. Calcium carbonate is a water-soluble mineral. Quite simply this means it will dissolve in water. (Want proof? Visit the Grand Canyon.)  Erosion can be recognized by a slow deterioration of the stone surface. With polished stone the polish will be worn off. In older installations, the stone may become very soft, brittle and in extreme conditions, it will powder.

If any architects or designers are reading this article, I urge you not to specify marble for water fountains.  If you do, plan on very high maintenance costs and plan on replacement in about five to ten years, if not sooner.

 

Hollow Sounds

I constantly get calls from insurance adjusters, contractors, attorneys, etc. about hollow sounds that occur after a floor has been exposed to flooding.  The fact is those hollow sounds that occur on a floor are NOT caused by flooding. The reason is simple: most setting materials are made from Portland cement. It is a well-known fact that Portland cement has hydraulic properties. In other words, it cures in the presences of water.  If your client is complaining about hollow sounds and is trying to blame it on a flood, keep this in mind. An inspection and evaluation of the floor is necessary to determine the extent of the hollow sounds which can cause deboning and other issues.

 

Mineral Crusts or Lime Putty

Mineral crusts or lime putty can be recognized by its white crust like formation on stone surfaces. These crusts are often found on outdoor stone stairs, water fountains, interior floors and other areas where stone is exposed to flooding. The crusts are a deposit of hard mineral salts consisting of calcium and magnesium. These minerals originate from the soil, setting bed or from the water itself. These salts are similar to efflorescence in that they are a mineral. They differ in that they form a hard crust that can be difficult to remove.

 

Conclusion

Having a stone or tile floor that has been subjected to flooding evaluated by an expert is highly recommended. It may make all the difference. For example, white marble can turn yellow months after the flood. Tiles can become cracked due to swollen subfloors that are not visible to the naked eye, etc etc.

 

www.stoneforensics.com

 

Frederick M. Hueston is an expert on stone and tile damage and has over 35 years of experience. He can be contacted at fhueston@gmail.com