Stone Myths

Stone Myths

 Over the past 20years I have heard many stories about the reasons stone will fail, turn color, fade or what ever. Many of these stories are funny and almost all of them are just plain false. The following is a brief synopsis of these stories and myths along with the real reason for these conditions.

 

Green Marble warping;

Many season installers who have tried to install green marble tiles with ordinary thin set or other water based setting materials have experienced warping problems.  I cannot tell you how many times I have encounter the same problem as an inspector. The following are some of stories I have heard for the reason that green marble will warp.

 “Green Marble will warp because it contains living plant material. As water is added to the marble the plants start to grow and this makes the marble warp.”  This is an absolute true story. I heard an installer telling a customer this and about fell to the floor, trying not to laugh. When I asked him if he was kidding, her said no and really believe this was the reason.

 “Green marble will curl on the edges because the installer did not put enough setting mortar on the edges. The green marble will have a tendency to lift off the floor where there is not mortar and hence it will curl.”  This falsehood isn’t as bad as the first one, but it is just as wrong.

 FACT:  The real reason green marble warps is a condition known as hysterisis. Green marble’s are very sensitive to moisture and what happens when water enters the stone, it causes the marble to release any internal stress it has and hence it warps.

  Your Stone Floor has an Effervesce problem,

 The key word here is effervescence. I have lost count on how many times I have heard contractors refer to efflorescence as effervescence. Lets clear this up right now. Efflorescence is the deposit of soluble salts on the surface of the stone. It is caused by water that carries the salts from the setting bed or the stone to the surface; it is often deposited as a white powder like residue on the surface of the stone. Effervescence is what happens when something fizzes. A good example is when one drops an alkazelser in a glass of water. The fizzing is referred to as effervescence.  I have never seen a stone effervesce, unless someone was pouring acid on it.

Along the same topic I have had so-called experts instruct people who have an efflorescence problem to seal the stone to help it. This is wrong, sealing will only block or reduce the pore size of the stone and this in turn will not only cause more efflorescence, it could also cause spalling.

 Your Stone Floor needs to be homed!

 No, this is not a spelling mistake, the word use was HOME.  I have run into several sales people who have called the honing process, homing.  Maybe they also worked with pigeons , but I have never heard of homing a floor. The proper term of course is HONE, which means to abraded a stone.

 That’s not a crack, it’s a fissure!

Now I don’t want any letters or emails from you fabricators out there. The following is an explanation of both of these terms. Many fabricators will try and  blame cracks that occur in stone installations on natural fissures that occur in the stone. Sometimes they are right and sometimes they are wrong. If one looks up the word ‘fissure” in the dictionary, guess what? A fissure is a crack. What I believe most fabricators need to do is describe the natural fissures in the stone as “natural occurring as part of the formation of the stone.  Cracks on the other hand should be called “Breaks” caused by external forces on the stone. This would mean that if someone stands or sits on the stone, it could develop a break.  Of course, the most likely place for a break to occur is on a natural fissure. For this reason it must be handled carefully and the stone needs to be examined carefully.

This is a tricky topic and is open for debate, however, you need to communicate to your customer what the difference between natural occurring fissures and those caused by external forces.

 Vinegar and water

 To clean your marble or limestone, just use some vinegar and water. Now, hopefully most of you in the stone business know that vinegar is an acid and it will etch calcium based stone. However, I cannot believe how many times I have heard tile installers make this recommendation. In case you don’t know…never, never use vinegar on any stone surface. Marble and limestone’s are generally the most susceptible but there are also some granite that will become damaged from vinegar.

 

 To remove oil from stone saturate it with water and the water will force the oil out.

I heard this one recently from one of my students who told me that some expert told him this is how you remove oil stains out of stone.  Believe me, it does not work. In theory since oil will float on water you would think that this makes sense. However, the oil is trapped in the pores of the stone and no amount of water is going to force it out. The best way to remove all is with a poultice and a degreasing chemical. For instructions on poulticing see our web site at www.ntc-stone.com.

 

 All Marble have Veins

 This is another fib I hear all the time. Many people in our industry believe that if a stone has veins then it must be marble. Of course this is totally false, since veins can be observed in granite and limestone as well.

The Darker the stone the softer it is!

Again, Untrue. There are some really dark granites that are as hard or harder than some of the lighter colored granites. The same can be true for marble and limestone.

 Of course we should not forget the myths about granite harboring bacteria and emitting harmful radon gas. In past articles I have dealt with both of these falsehoods. Here is a brief summary.

 

 There is a report circulating that granite countertops are unsafe, harbor bacteria and can produce disease. This is absolutely FALSE, NIOSH and the CDC have no reports of granite or any other stone used as a countertop as being unsafe. Think about this for a moment, if stone was unsafe and unsanitary why would there be cutting boards sold made of stone. Why would stone be used in food laboratories. There has been no known proof of any illness caused by using stone as a countertop.

 There have also been rumors that granite contains harmful radon gas. This again is untrue. There is so little radon in granite that one would have to live to be 10,000 years old for it to have an ill effect.  There is more likely more radon coming from the ground and the concrete that your house is built on.

 As the years progress and I get grayer, I hear more and more falsehoods and myths. I keep readers posted any new ones I hear.

 

 

Are your Ice and Snow Melters Destroying your Stone and Terrazzo Floors

Are your Ice and Snow Melters Destroying your Stone and Terrazzo Floors

     The Deterioration of Stone & Masonry through the Crystallization of Deicing Salts

                                                            Frederick M. Hueston                                                                      

 The crystallization of deicing salts found in many snow and ice melter can cause severe deterioration of stone, terrazzo and masonry surfaces. This crystallization is called subflorescence.  Snow and Ice Melters containing Calcium Chloride, etc are the cause for this damage. .Problems associated with subflorescence can be diagnosed and identified by visual clues, such as spalling and pitting.  Accurate diagnosis of subflorescence can be confirmed with laboratory testing. Preventative applications might include application of chemical injection and coating the masonry with a sealer or impregnator as well as switching to a snow and ice melter that contain non-crystalline salts. The following article will explore the problems caused by these deicers and what can be done to prevent damage to your stone, terrazzo or masonry floors.

 How do Deicer Cause Damage                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  The deposit of salts in the pores of stone and masonry is the major cause for deterioration of these surfaces.  These salts are contained in many popular snow and ice melters.    Boyer(1986) contributes  deicing salts

            When snow and ice melts the salts used in deicers become soluble. The water wicks into the pores of the stone and masonry carrying the salts with it. When the water evaporates the salts recrystallize. The pressure created in the pores of the stone and masonry cause the surface to flake off or spall. This process is known as subflorescence.          

                                                                                                                                       4

 Diagnosing and Identifying Subflorescence

An experience stone consultant can recognize the signs and symptoms of damage caused by deicing salts. The stone and masonry will appear pitted(spalled). This damage is observed in the walking path at the entrances of the building. The damage tends to lessen the further away from the entrance. Certain stones such as some limestone’s and slates will flake off in sheets. Terrazzo and marble will become pitted.

Core samples can also be taken and sent to a lab for testing and verification if necessary.

 Snow and Ice Melters

There are many brands of snow melters on the market. Many of these melters contain salts that will crystallize and cause damage to stone and masonry. The following are the salts you should avoid.

Rock Salt- Rock salt will go by the name of Halite but chemically it is simply Sodium Chloride(NaCl). This is the most common salt sold for deicing and it is also the least expensive and hence is the most widely used. It is also the salt that causes the most damage to stone, terrazzo and masonry flooring.

Calcium and Magnesium Chloride(CaCl2 –MgCl2)- these are salts that come from natural salt deposits in the Great Salt Lake in Utah. They are also destructive to stone, terrazzo and masonry. They also can deposit a film on the surface of the floor causing it to be slippery.

 Potassium Chloride(KCL)- This salt is not a very good deicer by itself and is often found mixed with other ingredients. It is often sold as a safer salt for plants. But not for stone, terrazzo or masonry.

 Ammonium Sulphate(NH₄]₂SO₄    Stay far away from this salt. It is very damaging to stone, terrazzo and masonry. It’s not used that much in deicers but if you see it listed on the ingredients, don’t buy it.

 Urea- Urea is commonly found in fertilizers. In its pure form it is less damaging the most other salts. Most deicers containing Urea are not pure and can be damaging to stone, terrazzo and masonry.

The above salts are in a sold crystalline form. There are liquid deicers available containing Ethylene Glycol and Potassium acetate but liquids are usually impractical to apply in schools and other public buildings.

 Safe Deicers

Which salts are safe for stone, terrazzo and masonry flooring?  Thanks to our many icy roads a salt known as Calcium Magnesium acetate was developed. Not only is this type of deicer more environmentally friendly it is also biodegradable, non corrosive and less damaging to stone, terrazzo and masonry surfaces.  The down side you might guess is the expense. But what will that new floor cost?

Safe for Concrete Deicers

The biggest concern with deicers is the corrosion of rebar in concrete. For this reason many deicers are claiming to be safe for concrete. This is true as far as less corrosion. Your concern is not necessarily corrosion but salt crystallization. Make sure to check the ingredient of these so called safer deicers by requesting a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) or consult with a stone expert.

  As I travel in areas where deicer are used I see thousands of schools, government buildings as well as public building with damage to stone, terrazzo and masonry flooring.  If the damage is caught in time a restoration company may be able to repair the damage. If these harmful salts continue to be used you’ll be replacing the flooring in a very short time.

 

 

            

Resined slabs: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly

Resined slabs: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly

by Frederick M. Hueston,

Q: Our shop has been getting a lot of resined slabs lately, and I am a little confused as to why slabs are resined to begin with. I would be interested to know why they are resined and what problems fabricators are having with these resined slabs?

A: In the past few years, I have had many fabricators ask the same question. Of all the fabricators I have spoken with, some have no problem at all with resined slabs, while others are having nothing but problems. The following are some of the pros and cons of resined slabs. The following article is not intended to solve this problem or to render an opinion but to put forth arguments from both sides. In other words the good, the bad and the ugly.

The resining of stone slabs is not as new as some might think. Resining started back in the 1960s on marble and about 10 years ago with granite. Today, the resining of slabs is commonplace, and it is predicted that almost all stone slabs will soon be resined.

What is resining?
The resining process uses epoxy resins for granites and polyesters for marble. There are several methods that are used to apply and cure the resin, from hand-spray applications to automated lines. The slabs are first honed and dried, and then the resin is applied. The slabs are then cured in heated ovens, and after the resin is cured, the slabs are sent to the polishing lines where they are polished. Some factories also apply a thin layer of wax to the surface after polishing to help protect the stone during shipping.

The Good
The resining of slabs has allowed slab producers to eliminate lots of waste and sell slabs that would otherwise be rejected. Brittle materials can now be used due to the resining process, which helps hold the brittle material together like a glue.

Resined slabs are also less likely to become damaged during shipping.

Resining of slabs has also reduced the price of slabs, which is one reason the industry is seeing such a big growth in slab sales in recent years.

Resined slabs are also less porous, and many resined materials do not need to be sealed, since the resin acts as a sealer for the stone.

In addition, Filippo Emanuel of Tenax USA listed the following benefits in a recent article in Stone World (June 2003, page 100):

Several materials are naturally fractured and could not otherwise be sold or marketed even if they are superior in terms of color, durability and other qualities.

There is a growing tendency in producing thinner slabs to reduce transportation costs and open up new markets and different stone uses.

The waste from manufacturing slabs of particular materials (especially some marbles) could represent 35 to 40% of production, thus considerably increasing the cost of the remaining slabs.

Many different kinds of granites have natural micro-fissures that compromise the final polished effect, thus reducing the beauty of the material.

There are materials just too fragile to be polished, leaving no solution but to close down quarries.

Some granites have fissures that pass through the slab and considerably decrease the strength of the slabs and pose a hazard when used as outside paneling.

Limited reserves of a particular color of stone leave only the worst and more damaged veins to be quarried.

The Bad and The Ugly
Over the past few years, several problems have arisen with resining slabs. The following are some of the problems that have been encountered:

1. Fading
One of the major complaints associated with some resined slabs is that the resins used are not UV resistant. I have heard of several fabricators who store their slabs outside for several months, and when they go to use them, they discover that the slabs have darkened. This is especially true of slabs that are covered. In one case, a slab of stone was partially covered with another section of stone. When that small section was removed, it was discovered that the portion of the slab that was not covered had darkened. This is the result of UV light reacting with the resin. The lesson to be learned here is not to store slabs outdoors in direct sunlight. This is especially true of light colored materials such as Giallo Veneziano and others.

However, Emanuel points out that there should be no resin on the surface of the slab. “If there is, it means that the manufacturer did not do a good job removing it,” he said. “That is when fabricators start having problems with darkening effects.” If done correctly, the resin is inside the cracks and the pits, but nowhere else.

An additional problem is with profiles. Several fabricators have had experiences with the profiled edge turning out lighter than the rest of the stone. “The problem with the edges is that the resin will darken the top of the slabs regardless of the UV,” Emanuel explained. “It is just the effect of the different reflection of the light when a material is imbibed with resin. When you cut the edge, there is no resin on the side — regardless of the UV exposure. That’s the reason why the edges are lighter.”

Over time, we have found that the edge will darken and match the face of the stone. A quick fix to this problem is to use a color enhancer to darken the edge.

2. Sealer interaction
Our technical hotline has received several calls where impregnators have been applied to a resined stone, and the material clouds, discolors or fades. After testing several slabs and sealers, I have discovered that some solvent-based impregnators will react with the resin, causing it to break down and turn color, cloud or fade. This is a problem that is difficult to repair. We have found that the application of a color enhancer will sometimes hide this problem. My recommendation would be to use only water-based impregnators on resined slabs.

3. Polishing and refinishing problems
In a recent countertop repair seminar, one of our students brought in a resined section of stone he wanted to try and refinish and polish. We discovered that this material had such a heavy application of resin that when he tried honing the top, the resin became gummy. Once the surface was cut and polished, it was very difficult to match the remaining surface of the stone. As of this writing, I have yet to find a solution to this problem other than to refinish and polish the entire slab so it all has the same polish.

Please keep in mind that that some of these problems may be the result of improper application and not necessarily the resin itself. Just like any other industry, quality control can be an issue, and sometimes a slab or two may slip by. This is why it is important to deal with reputable slab distributors and to carefully inspect each slab upon delivery.

Only time and history will tell if the resining process is good, bad or ugly. Of course, resin chemistry will most likely improve, as well as the application process. In the meantime, stone fabricators should be aware of these problems and learn to deal with them.

MOISTURE-STONE ENEMY NUMBER ONE

           MOISTURE-STONE ENEMY NUMBER ONE

 

Most of the problems associated with stone tile installation can be traced to moisture or water intrusion of some kind. Many stains are caused by the presents of water. Water is an essential ingredient for the setting cleaning and restoration of stone but it can also be its number one enemy.

 What problems are associated with moisture and water.  The following is a brief description of the problems, there prevention and remedies:

 

 Efflorescence

 Efflorescence appears as a white powdery residue on the surface of the stone.  It is a common condition on new stone installations or when the stone is exposed to a large quantity of water, such as flooding.  This powder is a mineral salt from the setting bed.  To remove efflorescence do not use water, buff the stone with a clean polishing pad or #0000 steel wool pad.  The stone will continue to effloresce until it is completely dry.  This drying process can take several days to as long as one year.

 Subflorescene

Subflorescene is what happens when the mineral salts migrate and do not make it all the way to the surface. In the efflorescence condition above, the slats are deposited on the surface of the stone. In subflorescene the salts crystallize just below the surface, causing stress within the pores of the stone. The result is a condition known as spalling which appears as pits in the surface of the stone.  subflorescence is very common on green marbles and is very common on almost all stone surfaces where de-icing salts are used.

Iron Staining

 Many light colored stone contain naturally occurring deposits of iron.  Iron is a mineral  found in stone and can occur randomly throughout the stone.  If iron is present, it will begin to oxidize when exposed to water or other oxidizers such as acids and household bleach.  Stone can remain  for years without yellowing then over time may slowly turn yellow and in severe causes may turn completely brown.  This oxidation process is accelerated when the stone is saturated with water.  This process of oxidation is similar to the rusting of metal.  If you expose a brand new nail to water and air it will turn brown and rust.  The same process is occurring with the iron in the stone. If water and/ or air is eliminated the iron will not oxidize.  This is the reason certain white marble suddenly turn yellow.   The process is difficult to reverse and replacement of the stone may be necessary.  The following stain removal technique has proved successful in several cases.  Before testing this procedure it is important to first determine if iron is the cause.

  Testing for Iron:

1.  Before assuming the marble is yellowed due to iron be sure to attempt cleaning and stripping with a good alkaline based stripper.  If these procedures fail then testing for iron will be necessary.

 2.  If a flood has occurred or excessive water was used first check the water for iron.  There are several inexpensive test kits available that can be used to check the iron content in water.  Check with your local plumbing supply store or store carrying water softening supplies.  If any amount of iron is detected then it is possible iron has entered the stone through the water supply.  To eliminate the iron there are chelating chemicals that can be added to the water to prevent the iron from staining.  This is very important if the stone is cleaned with this water.

 3.  If the water contains no iron and even if it does the stone should be checked for iron content.  Remove a small sample of the stone  and contact a testing lab and have them analyzed it for total iron.  If there are spare tiles that have never been installed also have them tested for total iron.  If iron is present naturally in this stone, it will probably be detected in the spare tile.    If the results return with iron present then the following procedure should be tested.

 4.  Check the stone for moisture.  A moisture meter is a useful instrument that can be employed to check the stone for moisture.  If the stone contains water, it is very possible that iron is beginning to oxidize.

 Removing Iron Staining:

 1.  Prepare a solution of water and the following chemical: Sodium Hydro sulfite and Sodium Metabisulfite.  These chemicals are available in a product called Iron-Out(TM) from your plumbing supply or home center.  Mix a solution in water and apply to the effected area.  Allow solution to soak in and keep wet for several hours. Do not allow solution to dry.  After several hours pick up excess solution with a wet vacuum and rinse throughly with water and a chelating agent such as EDTA.  Be prepared to repolish any marble since these chemicals can cause etching.

 2.  If the above procedure fails than prepare a poultice with diatomaceous earth and the Iron Out(TM).  Mix the poultice into a thick paste and apply to a small area.  Cover the poultice with plastic and allow it to sit covered for 24 hours.  After 24 hours remove the poultice paste and rinse the area with water and a chelating agent.  If the stain is removed, the entire surface can be treated. If the stain still remains then replacement is the only solution.

 Before the above procedure can be performed, it is important that the effected area be dry.  If water or moisture are still present, oxidation of iron may continue

 The yellowing of stone is a common problem.  New installations should be sealed with a good quality penetrating sealer(impregnator) Which will help prevent oxidation of the iron by eliminating moisture.

 The above procedure has proven successful in some cases of iron staining however if the following test does not produce the desired results I would recommend replacement of the effected areas.

  Warping

 several type of thin stone tiles are very susceptible to warping. Many of the green marbles and a few agglomerate marbles are notorious for this warping condition.  Many of an installer have had the surprise to find that there tile installation has become warped overnight. Why does this a happen and can it be prevented.  Warping is caused by water. Green marble set with any water based material will have a tendency to warp.  The mechanism of why the tile warps is somewhat a mystery.  Some believe that the water fills the pores of the stone and when the water evaporates the orientation of the stones crystal change and cause it to warp.  Whatever the reason, one thing is for sure, green marble can warp when set with water based materials.

 Cure: Once a green marble tile warps it is difficult to repair. Attempts have been made to grind the tile flat , but this usually fails since additional water is introduced during the grinding process. The green simply warps again.

 Prevention; The only way to prevent warping is to install it properly with a non-water based material such as epoxy. Some installers have also ben successful in sealing the back of the tile with epoxy and installing it in a water based system(see July Stone & tile Report).  Do not attempt to seal the back of the tile with a silicone sealer.  The silicone acts as a water repellant and will cause the setting material to fail resulting in a bond loss.

 Erosion

 Erosion is a condition found when stone is exposed to constant amounts of water. This is especially true with marble that is used in water fountains.  While marble is a very decorative material, it is one of the worst materials to use in or around water.  Marble is composed of calcium carbonate. Calcium carbonate is a water soluble mineral. Quite simply this means it will dissolve in water. Want proof, visit the Grand Canyon.  Erosion can be recognized by a slow deterioration of the stone surface. With polished stone the polish will be worn off. In older installations, the stone may become very soft, brittle and in extreme conditions, it will powder.

If any architects or designers are reading this article I beg you no to use marble for water fountains.  If you do, plan on very high maintenance costs and plan on replacement in about five to ten years if not sooner.

 Stabilizing erosion:

 If your faced with trying to stabilize a marble fountain that is already deteriorated there are some treatment that can be applied that will extend the life of the marble. These treatments are general called consolidants and serve to replace the natural binders that are lost through erosion. Consolidants can be tricky and quite often will cause discoloration of the surface. Be sure to test the consolidant carefully before use.

 Mineral crusts or Lime Putty

 Mineral crusts or lime putty can be recognized by its white crust like formation on stone surfaces. These crusts are often found on outdoor stone stair, water fountains and other areas where stone is exposed to water. The crusts are a deposit of hard mineral salts consisting of calcium, magnesium. These minerals ordinate form the soil, setting bed or from the water itself. These salts are similar to efflorescence in that they are a mineral. They differ in that they form a hard crust that can be difficult to remove.

 Crust Removal

 there are only two ways to remove these mineral crusts. Abrasion or chemical.  The mineral salts should be remove with an abrasive. I have found that a stiff non-ferrous wire brush can work well.  Brushes can also be purchased that attach to an electric drill. Be careful and do not get to aggressive. Avoid damaging the stone surface.

Quite often abrasion alone will not remove all salt deposited. Strong Acidic chemicals will be required. These chemicals can be purchased from most chemical companies that supply stone cleaning products.  Be careful when using these products around calcium based stone since the acid can also damage the stone itself.

 Prevention.

 The best prevention from mineral salts is to prevent moisture form entering the stone.  On steps and fountains make sure all grout joints are caulked with a water proof material. When installing steps outdoors make sure a water proofing barrier is used. It is also a good idea to use a good stone impregnator on all surfaces to prevent water from entering the stone.  Caution; Stone inpregnators will not waterproof stone. Do Not use them where hydrostatic pressure is a concern.

 TESTING FOR MOISTURE

 To properly test for moisture a protimeter is necessary. A protimeter is an instrument that reads moisture. The common protimeter has been designed for use with wood, drywall and other similar substances.  The protimeter contains two sharp probes that are inserted into the wood or drywall to give a direct moisture reading in percent.  Unfortunilty you can not push these probes into the stone, but the protimeter can give you important data oon stone moisture.  By placing the pins so that the just touch the stone a relative reading can be obtained.  For example, A reading of 0-6% is considerely relativly dry. A reading between 7-20% is wet. A reading of of 20% is very wet.  These readings only tell you that the stone is wet, a little wet or dry. A direct percent reading can not be obtain with these instruments, but can provide useful information.

 Another simple technique for determining moisture in stone is to take a piece of plastic about 12 inches square and place it on the suspected stone. Tape all four edges and allow it to stay overnight or 12 hours.  After 12 hours, if there is any moisture present , you will see condensation collecting under the plastic.

 TESTING FOR SALT

 A protimeter can also be used to check for the presents of soluble salts.  The following procedure will only tell you that salts are present. It will not tell you how much or what type. But in many cases the simple presents of salts can indicate potential spalling and/or pitting.

 For this test you will need the following materials:

 

A rubber block

filter paper

distilled water

a protimeter

forceps

 

Any type of rubber will do as long as it is clean and does not contain any salts. A piece of hard plastic can also be used.  Filter paper can be purchased from a scientific supply store and sometimes from the supplier who sells protimeters.  Distilled water can be purchased from the grocery store.

The forceps are used to pick up the filter paper.

To check for soluble salts pick up a filter paper with the forceps. DO NOT touch the filter paper with your fingers. The human skin contains soluble salts which could be transferred to the paper giving a false reading.  Place the filter paper on the rubber block. Add a drop of two of distilled water to the filter paper. Place the probes of the protimeter to the filter paper and record the reading.  Next, take a new filter paper and place it on the stone to be tested. Add several drops of distilled water and take a reading. Record the reading on a piece of paper.

 If the reading obtained on the filter paper from the stone is higher, then there are slats present. If it is the same or lower, salts are absent.  The protimeter works by reading ionic changes. When salts are dissolved in water, the ionic changes are higher, which gives a higher reading.

  www.stoneforensics.com

GROUT CLEANING, REPAIR COLORING AND MAINTENANCE

GROUT CLEANING, REPAIR  COLORING AND MAINTENANCE

 By Frederick M. Hueston

 

O, that awful dirty grout. You’ve tried everything and it just refuses to come clean.  Well help is right here. Most grout becomes soiled by grease and water based stains. In order to remove the dirt it needs to be cleaned with two different cleaners. One will remove the grease and oil and the other will remove the water-based soil.

The following is my secret recipe for cleaning grout.

 You will need two chemicals.  Sulfamic acid and a good wax floor stripper. Sulfamic acid can be purchased at most home centers and can also be found at most tile supply companies. The floor wax stripper can be purchased at most janitorial supply houses. Ask for an alkaline-based floor wax stripper.

 

1.  Sweep the floor thoroughly removing any loose dirt, dust etc.  For showers and walls, wipe with a dry rag.

 

2. Mop the floor with warm water and a good floor cleaner. Ammonia will work also.

For showers and walls use a clean rag with the above chemical.

 

3.  Mix a solution of the alkaline stripper in a pail of warm water. Make sure to follow the directions on the bottle.

 

4. Apply a small amount of this solution to the grout. Allow it to stand for several minutes and agitate with a scrub brush, toothbrush or similar type brush.

Apply additional solution if it begins to dry.

 

5.  Pick up any excess solution with a mop or a wet vacuum.

 

6. Rinse the grout with plain warm water.

 

7. Mix a solution of sulfamic acid with warm water per directions on the label.

 

8.  Apply the acid solution to the grout and agitate.

 

9. Rinse the grout several times with clean water and allow to dry overnight.

 

10. Once dry, seal the grout with a good penetrating sealer.

 

If the above technique does not work then the grout will have to be removed and replaced or if the grout is sound and not falling apart, it can be re-colored.

Caution: Sulfamic acid will damage marble surfaces.

 

 

 

 

 

GROUT REMOVAL & REPLACEMENT

 

Removing and replacing grout is not that difficult. All it requires is a little patience and the know-how. The following is the know how, you supply the patience and Oh yes, the elbow grease.

 

You will need the following tools:

 

-A hand held gout saw. You can purchase these at most home centers, hardware stores or tile supply houses. They usually run a couple of dollars.

 

 

-A grout float. Also only a few dollars. I prefer the type with the rubber face, but any grout float will work.

 

 

 

 

GROUT REMOVAL PROCEDURE

 

1.  Remove the grout using the grout saw.  Work the saw in a back and forth motion until you have removed more than half the grout.  It is not necessary to remove all the grout.   As long as you remove about 1/4 inch minimum.

 

2.  Once the desired amount of grout is removed. Vacuum all the grout and dust from the floor or wall. 

3.  Check for loose tile and re-set these before regrouting.  You are now ready to re-grout.

 

 

GROUT REPLACEMENT

 

1.  Choose the proper grout. For walls and grout joints 1/8 of an inch or smaller use un-sanded grout.  For floors and grout joints over 1/8 of an inch use a sanded grout.

Caution: If you have marble tile, unsanded grout can scratch.

 

2.  Place the grout in a bucket, add water and mix into a thick, smooth consistency. Do not mix it too soupy. Add more dry grout powder if it gets too soupy.  Some grout needs to sit several minutes before using and then remixed. Check with the grout manufactures directions.

 

3.  Apply the grout with the grout float. Work the grout into the joints making sure they are full. It helps to pack the grout into the joints by pressing hard on the grout float.

 

4.  Once all the grout joints are full, hold the float at a 45-degree angle and move it diagonally across the grout joint to remove excess grout.   It’s best to work in small sections so the grout does not dry too fast.

 

 

5. Once all the tile is grouted, clean the tile with a clean wet sponge.  It will be necessary to rinse several times.  I prefer using two buckets and two sponges.  Change the water often.  

6.  Allow the grout to sit at least 24 hours.  Occasionally a light grout film will be present after the grout dries. To remove this film, simply buff with a clean dry cloth.

 

7. Avoid walking on the floor or using the shower for at least 24 hours.

                                                 

 

 

 

 

 

 

GROUT SEALING

 

In order to keep your new grout or newly cleaned grout clean, it should be sealed. There are so many sealers on the market today.  Which ones are best?  Which ones really work?

 

It can be very confusing trying to choose a sealer to protect grout.  In the past several years the janitorial industry have bombarded the market with hundreds of products to seal & protect grout.

Fortunately, all of these products fall into only two major categories:

 

1. Coatings

2. Impregnators or penetrating sealers.

 

Coatings:

Coatings are sealers that place a sacrificial coating on the surface of the grout.  This is a film that lays on top of the grout acting as a barrier to prevent water, oil and dirt from entering the pores.

 

Coatings can be classified into two general types:

 

1. Strippable

2. Permanent. 

 

Strippable coatings:

Strippable coatings are coatings that are designed to be easily stripped or removed from the surface of the grout.  These coatings are made of polymers consisting of acrylics, styrene, polyethylene and others.  They are usually water based.  Many of the janitorial products are water based polymer type coatings.    To identify these coatings look for terms on the label such as  "metal cross link”,” high solids”,” high speed", "acrylic", "thermoplastic", etc.  When in doubt, ask.  There are hundreds of different formulas of strippable coatings.

 

Permanent coatings: 

Permanent coatings are coatings that are very difficult to remove.  They are made of solvent-based polymers such as polyurethane, epoxies, etc.  These are not recommended for grout. 

 

Impregnators or penetrating sealers:

Impregnators are designed to penetrate below the surface of the grout and deposit solid particles in the pores or to coat the individual minerals below the surface.  Water, oil and dirt are restricted from entering. 

Impregnators can be solvent or water based and usually contain silicone, siloxane, silane, methyl silicate or other similar silicon derivatives as well as Fluro alphatic polymers.

 

Impregnators can also be classified into two types:

 

1. hydrophobic- water repelling

2. oilophopic- oil repelling.

 

Hydrophobic impregnators

Hydrophobic impregnators are designed to repel only water and water based chemicals. A hydrophobic impregnator would repel fruit drinks, coffee, tea, soda, etc..

 

Oilophobic impregnators

Oilophobic impregnators are designed to repel water and oil based liquids.  Cooking oil, grease, body oils, etc. would be repelled by a oilophobic impregnator.

 

An oilophobic impregnator will always be hydrophobic, but a hydrophobic impregnator may not be oilophobic.  Be sure to read product labels carefully to determine if they are hydrophobic or oilophobic.  Some products are listed as oil resistant.  Oil resistant and oil repellant are entirely different.  Oil resistant will only slow down the absorption of oil into the grout. Oil repellant will prevent oil from entering the grout.  Again, read product labels carefully. Be sure you are buying the right product for your particular situation.

 

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COATING OR IMPREGNATOR?

How do you make the determination between a coating or an impregnator?  They both have their advantages and their disadvantages.  The following summary should be studied carefully when choosing the proper product:

 

Coating-Advantages;

Coatings are sealers that place a protective, sacrificial layer on the surface of the grout.

 

1.  Coatings are generally economical.  The initial application is relatively low.

2.  Coatings are difficult to apply since you must apply them with a brush or applicator, which can be very tedious.

3.  Coatings generally will provide a sacrificial coating.  This layer will take most of the wear, preventing wear of the grout

 

 

Coatings-Disadvantages

1.  Since most coatings are typically softer than the grout itself, they will usually scratch, mar and scuff very easily, showing traffic patterns soon after application.  This will require  re-application.

2.  Coatings can build up and can cause an unsightly appearance, producing an unnatural look.

3.  Poor quality coatings can turn yellow. This is especially true if the grout is exposed to UV light.

4.  Coatings require frequent stripping and reapplication.  The chemicals and abrasives used in the stripping process may cause damage to the grout. Typically, certain stripping pads and stripping brushes can also cause damage.

5.  Certain coatings may block the breathing capability of the grout.  Moisture can become trapped below the surface and may lead to the grout falling apart

 

Impregnators-Advantages

1.  Most impregnators will not change the appearance of the grout.

2.  Most impregnators do not require frequent applications.  Since the impregnator is below the surface, it will generally last several years before reapplication is necessary.

3.  Most impregnators are not affected by UV light since they are below the surface where UV light cannot penetrate.  For this reason they can be used outdoors.

4. Impregnators are typically hydrophobic, while some are oiliophobic.

 

 

 

 

Impregnators-Disadvantages

1.  Impregnators that are solvent-based produce noxious and flammable vapors during application.

2.  Solvent-based impregnators are harmful to the environment producing high VOC (volatile organic compounds).  For this reason, some are restricted in certain states. Always check the MSDS sheet.

3.  The initial cost of most impregnators is relatively high.

5.  Impregnators in general cannot be used below grade to resist hydrostatic pressure.

 

When choosing the proper product for  protection, the above guidelines should help.  Always talk with the manufacture or distributor, and let them know where you plan to use their product.  They can be very helpful if you tell them all the conditions that apply.

 

 

 

 

 

GROUT SEALING-PENETRATING

 

1. Clean the grout thoroughly with a good grout cleaner or using the cleaning procedure described above.  Allow the grout to dry thoroughly.

 

2.  Pour a small amount of sealer on the floor and spread with a string mop or lambs wool applicator. For showers and walls use a terry cloth rag to apply the sealer.

 

3. Allow the sealer to penetrate into the grout for several minutes. Apply additional sealer if needed.

 

4.  Once all the sealer is applied, buff any remaining sealer from the tile with a dry cloth.   If you are sealing a large area, a floor machine may be used.

 

5.  Try to avoid spilling anything on the grout for several days. Some sealers take this long to cure. However, you can walk on the floor once it is buffed.

 

GROUT SEALING-COATING

1. Clean the grout thoroughly with a good grout cleaner or using the cleaning procedure described above.  Allow the grout to dry thoroughly.

 

2.  Apply the sealer with a small brush or applicator. Some sealers come with a self-dispensing applicator.  Work in small areas and avoid getting any sealer on the tile. It helps to keep a clean rag handy in case you accidentally get some on the tile.

 

 

3. Allow the sealer to dry thoroughly before walking on the floor or using the shower.

 

As you see, this procedure is very time consuming. I prefer the penetrating type for this reason.

 

 

 

GROUT COLORING

 

Yes, it is possible to change the color of your grout without replacing it.  Coloring your grout also will seal it preventing it from getting soiled. 

 

Before you can color your grout you must clean it and perform an adhesion test to make sure the grout coloring will stick and not peel.

 

Grout coloring can be purchased at most home centers and tile supply houses.

 

The following adhesion test must be performed before coloring the grout.

 

Grout Coloring Adhesion Test.

 

1. Clean about one foot of grout using the grout cleaning procedure in this article.

2. Dry the area with a hair dryer or heat gun. Make sure the grout is thoroughly dry.

 

3.  Apply a small amount of grout coloring with a paintbrush to the cleaned area.

 

4. Dry the grout coloring with the hair dryer. It is best to allow it to dry overnight if time permits.

 

5. Once the color is dry, take a piece of masking tape and apply it to the grout color. Rub the tape with your finger to make sure it sticks to the color.

 

6.  Now, quickly remove the tape. If the grout coloring sticks to the tape, then the chances it won’t stick.  In this case you will have to try acid washing the grout and repeating this test. If the coloring remains on the grout, then you can proceed to coloring.

 

GROUT COLORING PROCEDURE

 

1. Make sure you have cleaned the grout and have performed the adhesion test as outlined above.

2.  Apply the grout coloring to the grout with a small paintbrush or applicator.  Do not apply to heavily. It is best to apply two thin coats then one heavy coat. 

If you have an airbrush, grout coloring can also be applied with it.

 

Do not worry about getting the color on the tile. It should clean off easily on ceramic tile. Marble, granite and stone may be a problem. Check to make sure the grout coloring does not absorb into the stone.   If it does it may be necessary to mask the tile.

 

3.  Allow the coloring to dry. See label instructions for dry times.

4. Once dry, remove the excess coloring from the tile surface with a green scrub pad and some warm water and dish detergent.

If any coloring is removed you can touch up later.

 

 

It’s that simple. Just take your time.

 

GROUT MAINTENANCE

 

To keep your grout looking new, it is best to avoid harsh cleaners.  I recommend a neutral cleaner.  A neutral cleaner is not acid or alkaline and has a Ph of 7.  Neutral cleaners can be purchased from most janitorial supply houses. 

 

It is especially important to use mild cleaners with colored grout. The coloring will eventually come off and will require re-application.