GROUT CLEANING, REPAIR COLORING AND MAINTENANCE
By Frederick
M. Hueston
O, that awful
dirty grout. You’ve tried everything and it just refuses to come clean. Well help is right here. Most grout becomes
soiled by grease and water based stains. In order to remove the dirt it needs
to be cleaned with two different cleaners. One will remove the grease and oil
and the other will remove the water-based soil.
The following is
my secret recipe for cleaning grout.
You will need two
chemicals. Sulfamic acid and a good wax
floor stripper. Sulfamic acid can be purchased at most home centers and can
also be found at most tile supply companies. The floor wax stripper can be
purchased at most janitorial supply houses. Ask for an alkaline-based floor wax
stripper.
1. Sweep the floor thoroughly removing any loose
dirt, dust etc. For showers and walls,
wipe with a dry rag.
2. Mop the floor
with warm water and a good floor cleaner. Ammonia will work also.
For showers and
walls use a clean rag with the above chemical.
3. Mix a solution of the alkaline stripper in a
pail of warm water. Make sure to follow the directions on the bottle.
4. Apply a small
amount of this solution to the grout. Allow it to stand for several minutes and
agitate with a scrub brush, toothbrush or similar type brush.
Apply additional
solution if it begins to dry.
5. Pick up any excess solution with a mop or a
wet vacuum.
6. Rinse the
grout with plain warm water.
7. Mix a solution
of sulfamic acid with warm water per directions on the label.
8. Apply the acid solution to the grout and
agitate.
9. Rinse the
grout several times with clean water and allow to dry overnight.
10. Once dry,
seal the grout with a good penetrating sealer.
If the above
technique does not work then the grout will have to be removed and replaced or
if the grout is sound and not falling apart, it can be re-colored.
Caution: Sulfamic
acid will damage marble surfaces.
GROUT REMOVAL
& REPLACEMENT
Removing and
replacing grout is not that difficult. All it requires is a little patience and
the know-how. The following is the know how, you supply the patience and Oh
yes, the elbow grease.
You will need the
following tools:
-A hand held gout
saw. You can purchase these at most home centers, hardware stores or tile
supply houses. They usually run a couple of dollars.
-A grout float.
Also only a few dollars. I prefer the type with the rubber face, but any grout
float will work.
GROUT REMOVAL
PROCEDURE
1. Remove the grout using the grout saw. Work the saw in a back and forth motion until
you have removed more than half the grout.
It is not necessary to remove all the grout. As long as you remove about 1/4 inch
minimum.
2. Once the desired amount of grout is removed.
Vacuum all the grout and dust from the floor or wall.
3. Check for loose tile and re-set these before
regrouting. You are now ready to
re-grout.
GROUT
REPLACEMENT
1. Choose the proper grout. For walls and grout
joints 1/8 of an inch or smaller use un-sanded grout. For floors and grout joints over 1/8 of an
inch use a sanded grout.
Caution: If you
have marble tile, unsanded grout can scratch.
2. Place the grout in a bucket, add water and
mix into a thick, smooth consistency. Do not mix it too soupy. Add more dry
grout powder if it gets too soupy. Some
grout needs to sit several minutes before using and then remixed. Check with
the grout manufactures directions.
3. Apply the grout with the grout float. Work
the grout into the joints making sure they are full. It helps to pack the grout
into the joints by pressing hard on the grout float.
4. Once all the grout joints are full, hold the
float at a 45-degree angle and move it diagonally across the grout joint to
remove excess grout. It’s best to work
in small sections so the grout does not dry too fast.
5. Once all the
tile is grouted, clean the tile with a clean wet sponge. It will be necessary to rinse several
times. I prefer using two buckets and
two sponges. Change the water
often.
6. Allow the grout to sit at least 24
hours. Occasionally a light grout film
will be present after the grout dries. To remove this film, simply buff with a
clean dry cloth.
7. Avoid walking
on the floor or using the shower for at least 24 hours.
GROUT SEALING
In order to keep
your new grout or newly cleaned grout clean, it should be sealed. There are so
many sealers on the market today. Which
ones are best? Which ones really work?
It can be very
confusing trying to choose a sealer to protect grout. In the past several years the janitorial
industry have bombarded the market with hundreds of products to seal &
protect grout.
Fortunately, all
of these products fall into only two major categories:
1. Coatings
2. Impregnators
or penetrating sealers.
Coatings:
Coatings are
sealers that place a sacrificial coating on the surface of the grout. This is a film that lays on top of the grout
acting as a barrier to prevent water, oil and dirt from entering the pores.
Coatings can be
classified into two general types:
1. Strippable
2.
Permanent.
Strippable
coatings:
Strippable
coatings are coatings that are designed to be easily stripped or removed from
the surface of the grout. These coatings
are made of polymers consisting of acrylics, styrene, polyethylene and others. They are usually water based. Many of the janitorial products are water
based polymer type coatings. To
identify these coatings look for terms on the label such as "metal cross link”,” high solids”,” high
speed", "acrylic", "thermoplastic", etc. When in doubt, ask. There are hundreds of different formulas of
strippable coatings.
Permanent
coatings:
Permanent
coatings are coatings that are very difficult to remove. They are made of solvent-based polymers such
as polyurethane, epoxies, etc. These are
not recommended for grout.
Impregnators
or penetrating sealers:
Impregnators are
designed to penetrate below the surface of the grout and deposit solid
particles in the pores or to coat the individual minerals below the
surface. Water, oil and dirt are
restricted from entering.
Impregnators can
be solvent or water based and usually contain silicone, siloxane, silane,
methyl silicate or other similar silicon derivatives as well as Fluro alphatic
polymers.
Impregnators can
also be classified into two types:
1. hydrophobic-
water repelling
2. oilophopic-
oil repelling.
Hydrophobic
impregnators
Hydrophobic
impregnators are designed to repel only water and water based chemicals. A
hydrophobic impregnator would repel fruit drinks, coffee, tea, soda, etc..
Oilophobic
impregnators
Oilophobic
impregnators are designed to repel water and oil based liquids. Cooking oil, grease, body oils, etc. would be
repelled by a oilophobic impregnator.
An oilophobic
impregnator will always be hydrophobic, but a hydrophobic impregnator may not
be oilophobic. Be sure to read product
labels carefully to determine if they are hydrophobic or oilophobic. Some products are listed as oil resistant. Oil resistant and oil repellant are entirely
different. Oil resistant will only slow
down the absorption of oil into the grout. Oil repellant will prevent oil from
entering the grout. Again, read product
labels carefully. Be sure you are buying the right product for your particular
situation.
.
COATING OR
IMPREGNATOR?
How do you make
the determination between a coating or an impregnator? They both have their advantages and their
disadvantages. The following summary
should be studied carefully when choosing the proper product:
Coating-Advantages;
Coatings are
sealers that place a protective, sacrificial layer on the surface of the grout.
1. Coatings are generally economical. The initial application is relatively low.
2. Coatings are difficult to apply since you
must apply them with a brush or applicator, which can be very tedious.
3. Coatings generally will provide a sacrificial
coating. This layer will take most of
the wear, preventing wear of the grout
Coatings-Disadvantages
1. Since most coatings are typically softer than
the grout itself, they will usually scratch, mar and scuff very easily, showing
traffic patterns soon after application.
This will require re-application.
2. Coatings can build up and can cause an
unsightly appearance, producing an unnatural look.
3. Poor quality coatings can turn yellow. This
is especially true if the grout is exposed to UV light.
4. Coatings require frequent stripping and
reapplication. The chemicals and
abrasives used in the stripping process may cause damage to the grout.
Typically, certain stripping pads and stripping brushes can also cause damage.
5. Certain coatings may block the breathing
capability of the grout. Moisture can
become trapped below the surface and may lead to the grout falling apart
Impregnators-Advantages
1. Most impregnators will not change the
appearance of the grout.
2. Most impregnators do not require frequent
applications. Since the impregnator is
below the surface, it will generally last several years before reapplication is
necessary.
3. Most impregnators are not affected by UV light
since they are below the surface where UV light cannot penetrate. For this reason they can be used outdoors.
4. Impregnators
are typically hydrophobic, while some are oiliophobic.
Impregnators-Disadvantages
1. Impregnators that are solvent-based produce
noxious and flammable vapors during application.
2. Solvent-based impregnators are harmful to the
environment producing high VOC (volatile organic compounds). For this reason, some are restricted in
certain states. Always check the MSDS sheet.
3. The initial cost of most impregnators is
relatively high.
5. Impregnators in general cannot be used below
grade to resist hydrostatic pressure.
When choosing the
proper product for protection, the above
guidelines should help. Always talk with
the manufacture or distributor, and let them know where you plan to use their
product. They can be very helpful if you
tell them all the conditions that apply.
GROUT
SEALING-PENETRATING
1. Clean the
grout thoroughly with a good grout cleaner or using the cleaning procedure
described above. Allow the grout to dry
thoroughly.
2. Pour a small amount of sealer on the floor
and spread with a string mop or lambs wool applicator. For showers and walls
use a terry cloth rag to apply the sealer.
3. Allow the sealer
to penetrate into the grout for several minutes. Apply additional sealer if
needed.
4. Once all the sealer is applied, buff any
remaining sealer from the tile with a dry cloth. If you are sealing a large area, a floor
machine may be used.
5. Try to avoid spilling anything on the grout
for several days. Some sealers take this long to cure. However, you can walk on
the floor once it is buffed.
GROUT
SEALING-COATING
1. Clean the
grout thoroughly with a good grout cleaner or using the cleaning procedure
described above. Allow the grout to dry
thoroughly.
2. Apply the sealer with a small brush or
applicator. Some sealers come with a self-dispensing applicator. Work in small areas and avoid getting any
sealer on the tile. It helps to keep a clean rag handy in case you accidentally
get some on the tile.
3. Allow the
sealer to dry thoroughly before walking on the floor or using the shower.
As you see, this
procedure is very time consuming. I prefer the penetrating type for this
reason.
GROUT COLORING
Yes, it is
possible to change the color of your grout without replacing it. Coloring your grout also will seal it
preventing it from getting soiled.
Before you can
color your grout you must clean it and perform an adhesion test to make sure
the grout coloring will stick and not peel.
Grout coloring
can be purchased at most home centers and tile supply houses.
The following
adhesion test must be performed before coloring the grout.
Grout Coloring
Adhesion Test.
1. Clean about
one foot of grout using the grout cleaning procedure in this article.
2. Dry the area
with a hair dryer or heat gun. Make sure the grout is thoroughly dry.
3. Apply a small amount of grout coloring with a
paintbrush to the cleaned area.
4. Dry the grout
coloring with the hair dryer. It is best to allow it to dry overnight if time
permits.
5. Once the color
is dry, take a piece of masking tape and apply it to the grout color. Rub the
tape with your finger to make sure it sticks to the color.
6. Now, quickly remove the tape. If the grout
coloring sticks to the tape, then the chances it won’t stick. In this case you will have to try acid
washing the grout and repeating this test. If the coloring remains on the
grout, then you can proceed to coloring.
GROUT COLORING
PROCEDURE
1. Make sure you
have cleaned the grout and have performed the adhesion test as outlined above.
2. Apply the grout coloring to the grout with a
small paintbrush or applicator. Do not
apply to heavily. It is best to apply two thin coats then one heavy coat.
If you have an
airbrush, grout coloring can also be applied with it.
Do not worry
about getting the color on the tile. It should clean off easily on ceramic
tile. Marble, granite and stone may be a problem. Check to make sure the grout
coloring does not absorb into the stone.
If it does it may be necessary to mask the tile.
3. Allow the coloring to dry. See label
instructions for dry times.
4. Once dry,
remove the excess coloring from the tile surface with a green scrub pad and
some warm water and dish detergent.
If any coloring
is removed you can touch up later.
It’s that simple.
Just take your time.
GROUT
MAINTENANCE
To keep your
grout looking new, it is best to avoid harsh cleaners. I recommend a neutral cleaner. A neutral cleaner is not acid or alkaline and
has a Ph of 7. Neutral cleaners can be
purchased from most janitorial supply houses.
It is especially
important to use mild cleaners with colored grout. The coloring will eventually
come off and will require re-application.