Slate tile flooring dos and don’ts

 

Slate tile flooring dos and don’ts

By Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

 

Slate tile flooring is available in a wide variety of colors. You can choose from green, pink, blue and yellow shades. You may also go for natural surface textures of slate tile flooring and these textures come in different variety. The flooring is slip-resistant and hence makes a premium choice for most people across the globe.

Slate tile flooring is ideal for residential and commercial interiors and exteriors. It is easy to install and available with decorative color variation and slip-resistance quality.

Here are some do’s and don’ts you need to keep in mind with slate tile flooring.

Do’s:

a)         You should be sure of the fact that area in which you desire to install your slate tile flooring is apt for the climate, foot traffic and other important factors. A sales representative will be able to help you in this matter.

b)         It is very important to consider the substrate over which you wish to install the slate tiles. The tile should suit your requirements. You should always ask your sales representative about the suitability of your substrate with respect to the slate tile product you wish to purchase.

c)         You must expect color variations when it comes to slate tile flooring and utilize them to your advantage.

d)         It is necessary to keep yourself informed with the warranty details. Try to read all the instructions or information related to the slate tile flooring purchase.

e)         Before making a purchase, test the color patterns, thickness variation and overall spacing of the slate you choose via laying out the slate in a dry run.

f)         You require using a special type of mortar for slate tile. The mortar should be compatible to your interior and exterior installation. Try taking expert advice from sales representative about some brands and varieties of mortar available on the market. You should never forget to read the instructions available on the products you plan to purchase.

g)         Slate tile flooring sealant is very important. You can choose from several varieties available such a high-gloss sealant that provides the tile a lustrous look, low sheen that is reflective and no sheen that provides slate a natural look.

h)         You should look forward to consult an experienced flooring professional in case, you don’t have any experience in laying slate tile all by yourself. This will also help you stay miles away from mistakes that may make your wallet lighter.

 

Don’ts:

a)         Never ever forget to allow for breakage and waste while placing your order. Remember that accidents can happen anytime.

b)         You should not fail to supervise your substrate for dirt or loose materials. A clear, clean and level substrate is very important for a perfect slate tile flooring installation.

c)         Don’t install slate tile flooring on a wet surface. The moisture trapped on the surface may make installation difficult for you.

d)         Don’t apply a sealer to a slate tile floor that has been oiled or waxed and not cured. The marks can prove to be very difficult to remove later.

e)         Grouting soon is not a good idea. Always allow the mortar to properly set.

 

Keywords:

Jack multicolor slate supplier and exporter, Lime green slate supplier and exporter, M Green south slate supplier and exporter, etc.

 

Care and Maintenance for Butcher Block Countertops

 

Care and Maintenance for Butcher Block Countertops

By Frederick M. Hueston, stoneforensics.com

 

 Butcher block wood is widely considered the healthiest building material in the world. The solid wood represents a reliable, sturdy material that can last very long without requiring excessive protection. However, Butcher Block is a natural living material and, unlike man-made materials, it reacts to different environments in specific ways. We would like to draw your attention to the basic maintenance instructions for Butcher Block countertops. Following these directions will result in having a great looking, easy to maintain custom countertop that will last for many years.

Tops with a Mineral Oil Finish

The countertop must be oiled carefully on top, bottom and sides, giving a special attention to the end-grain area, as the section that the wood is most likely to absorb humidity through. Each cut or drill you make in the countertop (either for size adjustment, sink cutout or other purposes) must also be oiled thoroughly. Proterra mineral oil (Hesse, Germany) is a product that we recommend for kitchen tops applications given that it was specially designed to come in contact with foods. For situations where there is a great deal of humidity involved (like sinks, water faucets, etc) the mineral oil only will not assure the best protection and it is advisable to use polyurethane or any other similar finishing instead.

With a soft brush, oil the wood generously on all sides or simply pour a small quantity of oil on the wood and then spread it with the brush. Let the wood soak the oil for about 20-30 minutes and then remove the excess with an absorbent paper towel. When the top is first installed, it is advisable to apply 2-3 successive coats of oil, after which, the oil can be applied once several months or whenever needed. Every time you sand the area to remove scratches or cut marks, a new coat of oil must applied.

Maintenance

In order to keep your top clean, periodically scrape or brush away any food residues existing on its surface, wash with warm soapy water and dry it well using either a dry cloth or paper towels. Apply a new coat of oil any time needed. Alternatively, you can warm up a 1:4 combination of beeswax and mineral oil until the mixture becomes homogenized and then apply it uniformly on top’s surface, thus getting supplementary protection against both stains and humidity.

Avoid setting your butcher block next to extreme heat sources like stoves unless there is appropriate insulation between the heat source and the top. Avoid spilling vinegar on a wood top having a mineral oil finishing, as it can cause cupping or cracking. Do not use corrosive chemicals or excessively harsh detergents on a wooden top having a mineral oil finishing, as they can cause irreversible depreciation.

 

 

Repairing

If properly installed and sealed and periodically oiled, there is no reason that your top won’t last a long period of time in the same good shape it was when new. Sometimes however, due to poor maintenance and improper environmental conditions, some problems might arise; it is our duty, therefore to inform about these problems and the way to solve them.

·           Cupping and warping

Are prone to appear whenever there is a significant difference of moisture between the topside and the bottom side of the panel. If possible, place the top on a flat, hard surface, concave side facing down. On the convex side, uniformly place some fairly heavy objects. It will take up to 12 hours until the panel will straighten completely, after which, oil it abundantly on all sides.

If it is not possible to manipulate the top, simply apply generously mineral oil on the concave side until the panels straightens. In this case, however, you might need to repeat this operation several times to obtain the desired result.

·           End splits

Will manifest whenever the panel is placed in an excessive dry environment without being properly sealed. To repair, mix wood sand with a small amount of water-based wood glue and fill the cracks thoroughly. Allow 15-20 minutes to cure, sand the area with a 120 grit sand paper and then oil the top freely.

·           Scratches, cut marks and food stains

Can be removed by sanding uniformly the affected area, brushing away the resulting wood dust and applying a new coat of mineral oil. The finger-jointed panels can be sanded to a 3/8” depth, while for the continuous lamella panels and the end-grain butcher blocks, there are no such restrictions.

Tops with a Polyurethane Finishing

A solid wood surface finished with polyurethane based finishing requires no maintenance at all. However, scratches, cut marks and other damages will be difficult to repair; therefore extra care is required.

 

Keywords:

solid hardwood tops, wood countertops, butcher blocks, healthy products, kitchen butcher block, countertops, ecological finishes, cabinets and countertops, kitchen cabinets countertops, end grain butcher block

Cleaning Granite Countertops

 

Cleaning Granite Countertops

By Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

 

Homeowners who are seeking to increase value to their homes enjoy the durability and easy maintenance when upgrading to granite countertops. Granite is the most durable of all stones, second only to diamonds. Granite, being created from molten rock, can withstand the heat from a hot pot without a trivet. The hardness of the surface is excellent for handling dough and confectionery. While durable and low maintenance, however, they are not impervious to damage.

Properly installed granite countertops should last a lifetime, one justification for the higher costs associated with the material and installation. The granite suppler should provide personalized instructions for care with each slab, since all granite is made up of many different minerals. Even if two different stone slabs come from the same part of the world, there will be variances in the granite that require different kinds of attention.

Proper care ensures the longevity and beauty expected from this premium product. In addition to the polished finish, it's possible to get a “honed” or flat finish. Although a honed finish can be very attractive, it is not recommended for kitchen use. Over time, everyday use will tend to lend a polish to some areas, and the additional necessary sealers will distract from the beauty of the surface. A polished finish is easiest to maintain with regular care that includes proper cleaning and the use of sealers to prevent staining.

Care for a polished finish begins with daily attention to what is placed on the surface. Granite countertops are hard and can withstand a falling can of soup, but the polished surface is a bit more delicate. Never use the granite as a cutting surface, always use a cutting board. Avoid allowing acidic foods such as lemon juice, vinegar and soft drinks to be left on the surface for any amount of time, as they can etch the surface. Another thing that removes the polished shine are harsh cleaning products or abrasive cleansers (liquid or powder). To clean the surface without leaving streaks, use only a small amount of warm water with a ph balanced dishwashing liquid or a neutral stone cleaner.

Although granite is extremely hard, some of the minerals in it may be very soft. The existence of different minerals is what makes the granite easy to scratch, be chipped or break along the grain. In order to protect the surface, it is recommended to avoid dragging pots, pans or appliances across the stone. Scooting something across the countertop that has even a grain of sugar under it can scratch the polished surface.

Once a year, a penetrating sealant should be applied.  Regular polishing will keep the finish gleaming. Use a penetrating sealant recommended by the supplier or the home builder. Avoid using a stone sealer that will not penetrate the stone, as it will create a cloudy surface that will have to be removed by stripping the entire countertop, using harsh solvents. Remember, the glossy shine isn't caused by a coating on the surface, but by expert polishing using diamond polishing tools.

 

If there is minor damage to a granite countertop, it can be resolved by the homeowner. If a pot or pan leaves a grey or black mark on the surface, it can be polished out using fine steel wool. If a glue-like substance is stuck on the countertop, it is possible to scrape it off with a credit card or single sided razor blade. Small marks made during the removal can be polished out with a fine steel wool. If the granite is chipped or cracked, a professional should be called in to perform invisible repairs.

In addition to its strength, granite is a very beautiful stone that adds color and warmth to any kitchen. With just a little care to protect their beauty and utility, granite countertops will last a lifetime.

 

Keywords:

Granite Countertops, Granite Kitchen Countertops, Granite Tile Countertops, Cleaning Granite Countertops

Some Kitchen Design Ideas

 

Some Kitchen Design Ideas

By Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

 

In deciding on how to design your kitchen, you must take into consideration such things as: will your kitchen have an island?  Will it be of a modern or traditional design?  What kinds of appliances will you need for your new kitchen design?   What kind of lighting design?

Kitchens have evolved a lot over the years.  Once found only in the rear of the house, today's kitchen design takes the kitchen out the background.  The challenge for kitchen design is in creating a more open-faced kitchen, that is part of a dining area, a family room or a great room.

In deciding on how to design your kitchen, you must take into consideration such things as: will your kitchen have an island?  Will it be of a modern or traditional design?  What kinds of appliances will you need for your new kitchen design?   What kind of lighting design?

 

1. Kitchen as 'Great Room' 

Whether you are redesigning an existing kitchen or planning a new kitchen in a new home there are some design considerations to keep in mind, such as including in an island or peninsula as part of the kitchen design.  These can be used to connect the kitchen to a nearby dining area or family room thereby creating a 'great room'.   A kitchen island or peninsula will allow the cook to keep in visual and conversational contact with family members or guests in the adjoining family or dining room.

2. Create a Kitchen Canopy

To give the kitchen some visible borders without blocking views create a kitchen canopy.  Also a high ceiling in the kitchen can create the perception of spaciousness.

3. Using Kitchen Cabinet Color to Set Tone of Kitchen Design

Kitchen cabinets will help set the tone for the whole room.  The choice of wood will influence the overall look of your cabinets.  To create a light look, use a light wood such as ash, beech, birch, oak, maple, or chestnut.  For medium range, select cherry.  To darker kitchens, choose wood that has some color to it.

4.  Plan Out Use of Cabinets and Drawers in The New Kitchen Design

Plan out in the kitchen design blueprint just how your cabinets and drawers will be used and how much space and storage you will need before you start your new kitchen design.  The first thing to examine is the counter surface area.  Look at where you put everything in your existing kitchen and where in your new kitchen design will these things will go in the new space.  Will there be more than one person cooking at a time.  If so, will there be enough room for two cooks in the kitchen to work together?

 

 

5. Use The Galley-Type Kitchen Design

As for counter arrangements, many kitchen designers agree the galley-type design to be the best in terms of efficiency with it's single aisle and counters to either side, making it easy to turn around to go from sink to cooking range.

6.   Under-Cabinet Kitchen Lighting

Kitchen lighting can be an overlooked area of kitchen design.  Even if the kitchen has generally good lighting, the counter areas can be somewhat dark.  For these areas under-cabinet lighting can help provide more light to work in.  By using simple spots or fluorescent lights a smaller kitchen can be made to look larger.

7.   Looking at Countertops

Granite, marble, and limestone are all popular natural materials for use in countertops are available in many colors.  Ceramic tile kitchen countertops are versatile, practical, and also available in many colors, as well as many shapes, patterns, and finishes.  Solid surface countertops provide seamless acrylic faces.  Solid surfaces also come in almost limitless colors, patterns, and styles, and are stain and heat resistant.  Laminate countertops are more affordable but not built to last.  Concrete countertops are known for versatility, as well as strength.  Wood countertops are long lasting and easy to clean and repair but the wood will not withstand exposure to water and household chemicals.  Stainless steel countertops lack the elegance of granite or tile.   These countertops do not absorb stains, but tends to scratch easily.

 

 

How to install a Ceramic Tile Shower Pan Membrane

 

How to install a Ceramic Tile Shower Pan Membrane

by Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

 

Building a Custom Ceramic Tile Shower starts with a Shower Pan Membrane Liner

Installing a custom ceramic tile shower in your home is something a do it yourself homeowner can do with a little upfront knowledge. The most important aspect of a successful custom ceramic tile shower installation is properly installing a shower pan membrane liner. The shower pan membrane liner is used to ensure a leak-proof shower.

Shower pan membrane liners are used to funnel any water that seeps through the floor or wall grout to the shower drain below. The shower pan membrane liner is made up of a flexible type of plastic material that sits below a bed of mortar, and the tile, in the shower floor area.

Prior to installing the shower pan membrane liner, the floor of the shower needs to be pre-sloped to ensure that the water will flow towards the shower drain assembly. The pre-slope is accomplished by applying a layer of mortar to the floor of the shower unit area. The layer of mortar is troweled in such as way as to create a gentle slope from the shower wall edges to the center of the shower where the drain resides.

Once the pre-slope mortar has cured, the flexible shower pan membrane liner can then be installed. There are a couple of types of shower pan membrane liners on the market, with each having their own benefits. With either type of membrane, the homeowner needs to form and fold the material into the base of the shower area and secure it to the sides of the shower wall frame with staples and/or nails. In addition, an opening in the membrane should be cut out to allow the adjustable shower drain assembly to slip through.

With the shower pan membrane installed, the cementitious ceramic tile backerboard can then be secured to the framed shower walls. The backerboard is a rigid material that is ideal for attaching tile in wet areas such as a shower stall.

After installing the ceramic tile backerboard, a final coat of mortar needs to be applied on top of the membrane to protect it and to provide a solid base for laying the ceramic floor tile.

With the final coat of mortar cured, the ceramic tile can then be installed in the shower.

Once the tile and grout have been installed, the shower drain assembly should be adjusted so that the drain height sits flush with the finished ceramic tile floor.

For more information on installing a shower pan membrane liner, see the Shower Pan Membrane Liner Installation EBook from HomeAdditionPlus.com. The Shower Pan Membrane Liner EBook will quickly teach you the step-by-step process for installing the shower pan membrane liner correctly. It includes instructions on framing the shower stall, pouring the pre-slope and shower base mortar, and installing the shower pan membrane liner.

 

Ceramic Mural Tile: Take A Closer Look

 

Ceramic Mural Tile: Take A Closer Look

By Frederick M. Hueston  www.stoneforensics.com

 

From its beginnings in 13th century Morocco, ceramic mural tile has been a staple in American design and decor. Although ceramic tile making was a craft known to the Egyptian, Chinese, and Babylonian ancients, the methods of its creation that we employ today stem directly from those early Moroccan artisans of ceramic mural tile.

Although ceramic mural tile goes through phases of popularity, its appeal reached an apex during the Arts & Crafts movement, which endured until the 1920s. Because of the current resurgence of interest in the Arts & Crafts period, ceramic mural tile has once again experienced a surge in status among designers, decorators, and, of course, ceramic mural tile artisans.

Learning the craft of making ceramic mural tile takes more than an inherent artistic talent. It also entails becoming educated about such things as different clays, paints, firing techniques, kilns and other firing equipment, and a host of minute details only someone truly committed to the task would undergo. Most serious ceramic tile artisans spend a lifetime not only fine-tuning their craft, but constantly searching for means and methods of improving their techniques and learning about the latest and best processes necessary for creating quality ceramic mural tile for their patrons.

An awareness of the length of time and the commitment necessary to learn the techniques of creating high-quality ceramic mural tile makes it easier to understand the sometimes eyebrow-raising prices these artisans require. Most of them with reputations for superior work ask for and get sixty dollars or more per hour to create custom ceramic mural tile offerings for customers with specialized requests.

So the next time you see a gorgeous, hand painted ceramic mural tile example, keep some things in mind. When one considers the history of the craft, the hours and hours spent learning and perfecting it, and then the actual creation of ceramic mural tile, the price suddenly comes into perspective. You may even come to think of that painstakingly rendered ceramic mural tile you have hanging in your home for just what it is almost priceless!

 

How to Stain Your Concrete Floor

 

How to Stain Your Concrete Floor

By Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

 

Acid staining can make a common concrete floor into look like expensive natural stone flooring. Not only is it a fraction of the price, but for people allergic to carpeting materials its a godsend. Another great application is in houses with radiant floor heating. Radiant heating is at its most efficient when insulating floor coverings like tile or carpet are minimized.

The process of staining a concrete floor, while not overly complex, can be tough to get the results you want from. Most folks are probably better off hiring a professional contractor. Its a risky project for the do-it-yourselfer.

If youre not familiar with it, concrete stain isnt a paint or finish coat. It involves a chemical reaction on cement materials. Typically a water-based solution of hydrochloric acid and inorganic salts, the stain reacts with minerals and lime in the concrete aggregate, and the result of the reaction is coloring. It works on new or old concrete, and is fairly durable if you maintain it with sealer or wax, since it wont stain or chip. It can also be applied to both interiors and exterior floors. Walkways, bathrooms, entrances, driveways, living rooms and patios are all fair game.

When its finished, stained concrete looks a little like marble, but more dappled and less uniform. The concrete will mostly be earthy brown tones, with hints of red and green. Its possible to make your own tint stain by mixing colors, or applying at dissimilar rates. When you stain a concrete floor, though, dont expect the stain to be uniform or have an even tone. Plan your room decor and color scheme accordingly, because you’ll get dissimilar reactions from different areas of the concrete, and even a seasoned pro will be hard pressed to predict what the final result will be.

Surface prep for acid staining concrete depends on what condition your slab is in. Newly poured concrete only needs is be allowed time for curing- three weeks after pouring- then some rinsing and scrubbing. Older concrete is a different story. Thorough cleaning is required because any dirt, grease, paint, sealer or even curing agent will keep the stain from penetrating and reacting as it should. Do a little test area to make sure its ready.

Newer poured concrete will require less stain than older floors, but in general, a gallon of water added to one gallon of stain will cover around 400 square feet. Apply the stain with a non-metallic brush or broom, working in the cooler morning or evening hours, rather than in the heat of the day. Be careful to protect yourself from spillage, drips and fumes from the acid stain, and follow the manufacturers precautions.

After application, you need to cleanup by sweeping away any leftover stain and residue with a broom. When the floor is thoroughly dry, it is a good idea to apply a sealer agent and then wax it.

If you are in the market for natural stone flooring, a new look for your basement or patio, or just looking for new remodeling ideas, stained concrete is something you should look into.

 

What to Know Before you go Shopping for your New Flooring

 

What to Know Before you go Shopping for your New Flooring

By Frederick M. Hueston, www.stoneforensics.com

Buying a new floor can be a frustrating and confusing process. Here’s a list of things to keep in mind before heading out to purchase your new floor.

1. Take note of the room layout.

– Draw an outline of the room or rooms. Indicate where the entrances are placed.

– Measure the room carefully and accurately with a measuring tape. Write down the width and length of a room. Remember to include closets and other areas that need the new flooring. Smaller print patterns can make the room seem a lot bigger.

– Take into account adjoining rooms and the flooring on those rooms.

– Make a note in which direction the room is facing and if there is a sliding door. Determine how much natural light enters the room. You might want to consider a laminated floor, ceramic tile or porcelain tile.

– Bring along swatches of fabrics from your furniture, curtains and wallpaper. These will help you decide on the color and style of your flooring.

2. Answer these questions to help you out in selecting the right floor for your room:

– How much foot traffic does the room get in any given day? The number of people passing or using the room would indicate the level of wear and tear the room would take. This would help you in deciding the type of flooring to get. A room with a high volume of traffic needs more durable flooring.

– What is the main function of the room? A room used mainly for leisurely activities will have less wear and tear. Delicate flooring materials can be chosen in this case.

– How many pets do you have? Pets tend to abuse the surroundings they are in, floorings maybe damage from scratching.

– How many kids do you have in the house? All the roughhousing and playing that the kids do tend to abuse the flooring. The more kids you have in the house, the more abuse your flooring will get.

– What color do you want? Remember that lighter colors make rooms seem bigger.

– How long do you want the flooring to last? We would of course like the flooring to last forever but wear and tear damages the flooring.

Eventually, it will need to be replaced or you may want to simply change the look of the room after a certain period of time.

3. How much is the flooring going to cost?

– Are the subfloor preparation part of the quoted price?

– Is the quoted price inclusive of the installation or is that a separate fee? This is a budgeting concern, you would want to know the actual amount youre going to spend.

– Is the removal of pre-existing flooring included in the quoted price.

– Is the quoted price inclusive of the moving of all appliances and furniture in the room.

– Are all the necessary materials included in the quoted price? You wouldnt want to find out during the installation that some materials are not included and that you still need to purchase more materials. That could be extremely annoying and frustrating.

4. Questions to ask the installers and the store:

– Are the installers independent, or are they store employees?

– Whose insurance will pay for installation errors?

– Are all of the materials recommended by the manufacturer so warranty will not be voided?

– Discuss with the salesperson the warranty information of the manufacturer. Keep a copy of the warranty.

– Discuss the maintenance procedure and keep a copy of the manual or brochure.

– Have everything documented including the diagram of the installation. Also, the amount of flooring needed in the room

– Ask who will be responsible for the removal of fixed features in the room, e.g. toilet.

– Always check the website of the store, if any, to give you an idea of the store. Take note of the affiliations to groups or other organizations.

It would be best to email the store in advance to have some questions answered before going there. It saves a lot of time.

– Have all the product information documented. The document should include the name of the manufacturer, product name, color, style and the installation procedure.

 

How to clean your stone shower floor

 

How to Clean Your Shower Floor

 

By Frederick M. Hueston

Chief Technical Director, SurpHaces

 

 

You just stepped in your shower and looked down and can’t believe what you see. The stone on your shower floor just doesn’t look as good as it used to. It may have a white deposit which is build-up of minerals, or it could just be scummy from body oils, skin cells, and soap and shampoo products. It’s time to break out the cleaning products and finally clean all that gunk…But which cleaner do you use that won’t harm the stone? The following is a general guide that should help you choose the proper cleaning products/solutions.

The type of cleaner you can use will depend on the type of stone you have. If your shower floor is marble or limestone (travertine is a limestone), you will want to avoid acidic cleaners. Toilet bowl cleaners, grout cleaners, vinegar, etc. are all acidic and could damage the marble surface. If you are unsure the product is acidic, read the label carefully. Most acid products will have a warning label to avoid use on marble and limestone. Granite on the other hand can tolerate mild acids without harm.

Before you start bombarding your shower floor with an arsenal of chemicals it is best to first identify the type of build-up you are dealing with.

Hard Water Deposits
These deposits are generally white and are hard to remove. They may start as a white film but over time can build up into a crusty layer. They are usually caused by the build-up of minerals in your water. The best way to remove them is with a little elbow grease at first. Try scrubbing the floor with a nylon scrub brush and a mild detergent or neutral cleaner. These cleaners are available from most home centers and grocery stores. If this doesn’t work, you will need to get more aggressive. If the floor is granite try an acidic cleaner. If marble or limestone, a heavy-duty stone cleaner or alkaline cleaner is best. If the hard water deposits are especially stubborn, I would recommend you call a PRO for a professional cleaning.

Soap Scum
Soap scum build-up can accumulate on your shower floor and can not only look unsightly but can also cause the floor to be slippery. Many store-bought scum removers are acidic and will damage marble and limestone surfaces. On granite they should be safe to use. There are several alkaline soap scum removers that are safe for marble and limestone. Check the label carefully.

Mold and Mildew
These biological growths are unsightly and can cause all kinds of problems in a shower of any type. To remove them you will need to use a mild bleach solution. Care must be taken when using bleach around stone such as marble and limestone, so it’s important to not overdo it and rinse the shower thoroughly after cleaning with any bleach or products containing bleach. A good alternative to bleach is a commercial peroxide cleaner such as any of the oxy products. They take a while to work so you may have to let the cleaner dwell for several hours to be effective.

The best way to avoid any build-up is to clean the shower floor on a regular basis. When done showering, rinse the floor with clean hot water, then squeegee the excess water. This helps a lot.

A good quality stone impregnator can help but it’s best to consult a PRO as sealing stone in wet environments could result in other issues. Avoid topical coatings which can make the floor slippery.