Saturday, May 2, 2020

Why is my Grout Turning Yellow


Why is My Client’s Grout Turning Yellow?
By Frederick M. Hueston, Stone Forensics
Over the years I have received many calls from stone and tile restoration professionals asking how to identify the cause of grout yellowing and resolve grout yellowing problems. The reasons for this discoloration are many. Testing can help determine what is causing the problem. Solutions vary, depending on the cause. Here are the details.
Top Ten Reasons for Grout Yellowing
1.      Shampoos, soaps, etc. – Many of the personal items your clients use contain chemicals that can cause discoloration, and hence yellowing of grout. This is especially true of hair dyes and shampoos that contain coloring agents.
2.      Body oils – Skin and hair oils contain many contaminants that can cause discoloration of not only grout but also tile. These body oils are what cause the familiar yellow stain, ring-around-the-collar.
3.      Sealers and waxes – Sealers and various waxes can contain polymers that can discolor over time and cause yellowing.
4.      Grout types – There are numerous grout types that are prone to yellowing. White epoxy grouts are notorious for turning yellow.
5.      Cleaning products – Certain cleaners, especially those that contain dyes, can cause discoloration of grout. Household bleach commonly discolors grout.
6.      Iron – Certain water supplies contain iron. Water containing iron can deposit minerals on the grout that can oxidize and cause a yellow discoloration. If the water used to mix the grout during installation contained iron this can also cause discoloration. Check your water supply for iron.
7.      Dirty water – Water used to mop floors can rapidly get dirty. The dirt, oils, etc. will settle on the grout lines and cause a yellow cast. Encourage your client, or the cleaning or janitorial services they use, to keep mop heads clean and change mop water often.
8.      Smoke – Cigarette smoke can settle on grout lines, causing the grout to turn yellow.
9.      Aerosol sprays – Sometimes aerosol sprays, such as hair sprays and even air fresheners, cause grout discoloration.
10.   Bleed over – Certain tile types, such as white marble, contain iron. Iron from the tile can bleed into the grout and oxidize, causing the grout to turn yellow.

How to Test for Yellowing
As mentioned above, there are many reasons why grout can turn yellow. Here are some suggestions for inspecting the grout to determine the cause:
1.      Determine what cleaning products and toiletries have been used in the area. Look up the SDS on the product to determine whether products contain dyes, polymers, or other ingredients that may cause grout to turn yellow.
2.      Test the grout lines for iron using a product from Alpha Tools called RSR 2000. Place a small dab on the grout and wait several minutes. If it turns purple, it is positive for iron.
3.      Test the water for iron if iron oxidation is suspected. Test kits can be purchased at most home centers or water supply stores. If iron is present in the water, suggest that your client install a water filtration system.
4.      Try to determine the grout type. Epoxy grout can be problematic.
5.      Take a knife and scrape the grout. Examine the scraped area to see if the discoloration is on the surface or all the way through. Surface discoloration usually indicates chemical discoloration.
Once the cause of grout yellowing is determined, you can attempt to resolve grout yellowing problems. Be sure to instruct your client about using preventative measures such as discontinuing the use of stain-causing products, smoking outside, installing a water filtration system, etc.



How to Clean Yellowed Grout
To clean yellowed grout, you will need sulfamic acid, which can be purchased at most home centers and can also be found at most tile supply companies, and a good floor wax stripper, which can be purchased at most janitorial supply houses. Ask for an alkaline-based floor wax stripper. Caution: Sulfamic acid will damage marble surfaces.
Here are cleaning instructions:
1. Sweep the floor thoroughly, removing any loose dirt, dust, etc. For showers and walls, wipe with a dry rag.
2. In a cleaning pail, mix warm water and a good floor cleaner or ammonia. For showers and walls, use a clean rag and for floors, use a clean mop to clean the grout. Empty the pail.
3. Next, mix alkaline stripper with warm water, being sure to follow the directions on the bottle.
4. Apply a small amount of this solution to the grout. Allow it to stand for several minutes. Agitate the solution with a scrub brush, toothbrush, or similar type brush. Apply additional solution if the grout begins to dry.
5. Pick up any excess solution with a mop or a wet vacuum.
6. Rinse the grout with plain, warm water. Empty the pail.
7. Mix sulfamic acid with warm water, per the directions on the label.
8. Apply the acid solution to the grout and agitate.
9. Rinse the grout several times with clean water and allow to dry overnight.
10. Once dry, seal the grout with a good penetrating sealer.
If the above technique does not work and the grout is in good condition and not falling apart, then apply a high-quality grout color sealer. As a last resort, remove and replace the grout.

Friday, May 1, 2020

How Setting Mortars Bond


How Setting Materials bond and Why Resin Back Tiles Fail

Frederick M. Hueston, Stoneforensics.com

If you search the internet and try to find an explanation of how thin sets and other setting materials form a bond to a tile you will not find much. The manufacturers will give you a slew of marketing jibber jabber siting bonding agents as well their secrete formulas. The following article will break down the basics of thin set and other setting materials chemistry. With this information you can begin to understand why some setting materials do not bond properly or at all.

In order to understand the basics, we must first look at what thin sets and setting material are made of. The main component is Portland cement. Of course, there are other ingredients such as bonding agents but in the largest component is Portland Cement.  So all one needs is a basic understanding of how Portland cement cures to understand how these setting material can bond to tile.
Understanding how Portland Cement Cures
Portland Cement is a combination of aggregate and a cement mixture made from limestone, shells, and chalk or marl combined with shale, clay, slate, blast furnace slag, silica sand, and iron ore. Limestone is heated at high temperatures to form a solid material. This solid is than ground to form a fine powder that we call cement.
Cement is not Concrete
In order to form concrete that we are familiar with an aggregate need to be mixed with cement. The cement and aggregate are added together and mixed.  This is typical how you buy a bag of concrete. The bag you purchase at your local home center or building supply is a combination of dry cement and an aggregate. When you add water to this mix a reaction occurs that causes the concrete to harden(cure).
How Concrete Cures
When water is added to the concrete mix a reaction starts to take place called hydration. In other words the cement paste reacts with the water forming microscope crystals and branches(see photo #1). Without water the hydration process cannot happen, and the concrete will not cure.

How Setting Materials form a bond
Now, keep in mind that tile setting materials are basically concrete. In order to form a bond to the back of the tile there has to be moisture exchange. In other words, the back of the tile must be absorbent. As the concrete cures these little crystals and branches enter the pores of the tile and help create a bond. This bond can be compromised by numerous factors.
Lack of Bond
If the tile is nonabsorbent it will not bond since the crystals and branches cannot grab the tile. This is why resin backed tiles will not bond properly. The resin forms a nonabsorbent coating on the back of the tile.


Bonding Agents Play a Role
Bonding agents such as acrylics, latex etc are added to many setting materials to create a strong bond, However in most cases the back of the tile will still need to have some absorbency. This is why most thin sets and setting materials will have limitations listed on them. In many cases manufacturers recommend using an epoxy setting material on resin back tile. Epoxy setting material create a chemical bond and do not require absorbency of the tile.

A close up of a map

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Figure 1- Concrete hydration forming crystals and branches

Article have Moved to the a new site

All of my article as well as many new ones have moved to my website, here is the link https://stoneforensics.com/articles/